Rust prevention!

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UKDaveJ

Rust prevention!

Post by UKDaveJ »

In aimlessly looking on the net late last night, I came across this article, which I thought might be of use to 6'er owners!
OK, its for a Suzuki, but the message is pretty much the same I guess!

As to how much of this article is relevant to our 6'ers I don't know, but may prove useful I hope!

How exactly you can do all of this without proper 4 post ramp I have no idea! :?

The webpage is http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/cap ... page6.html

If anyone wants to add to this thread specifically for dealing with our 6'ers, please do so!
Thanks,
Dave :)

Suzuki Cappuccino Underbody Preservation
The Suzuki Cappuccino being built for the Japanese Market and not for our UK salted roads is extremely prone to corrosion due to the minimal underbody treatment when built.The vehicles were sprayed with primer on the underside surfaces followed by extremely minimal underbody sealing to inner wheel arches & boot floor areas. In order to preserve a Cappuccino so that it is capable of reaching classic status without the cost of panel replacement you should act now. The anti-corrosion warranty period of UK Suzuki Cappuccinos is now expiring and even if panels have been replaced under the warranty i.e rear wheel arches etc. attention must be paid to the reverse of these vulnerable areas in order to eliminate the onset of rust.
As an owner of two Cappuccinos and only too familiar with the unseen problem areas I have prepared the following as an unofficial personal guide which fellow owners may find useful if they intend to keep their vehicles beyond the short term with the assurance that their vehicle will only require mechanical servicing and keep the cars bodywork in excellent condition without ugly corrosion damage.
Firstly with any Cappuccino of any condition it is important to thoroughly clean the underside of the vehicle. Start by steam cleaning or jet washing hot the underside thoroughly - pay particular attention to suspension and floor sill areas.
Leave the car to stand preferably in a dry warm garage for several days prior to treatment. It may be worth lifting the front and rear ends of the vehicle and leave overnight in each position to allow trapped moisture to escape via drain holes. When completely dry start by cleaning the whole underside of the vehicle including all suspension, use scotchbrite pads and/or a wire brush for loose paint and rust. Follow up with a cloth and white spirit to degrease. Paint the entire suspension and all rust damaged areas of the floor and wheel arches with POR 15 rust prevention paint. This can be brushed on and produces a tough black gloss finish which kills and prevents further corrosion. This will take considerable time but is very worthwhile. Any other rusty areas fuel tank etc. can be treated with kurust to convert rust prior to painting. The next step is to paint the complete floor and wheel arches with Protectakote polyurethane based paint which leaves a tough, flexible stone chip resistant finish to these major surfaces. This paint can also be applied to the outer sills up to a masked line after treating any rust spots.
WAX TREATMENT
Remove the sill grommets at each end of the box sections and the sill step trim. Remove the rear parcel shelf and seat belt stanchions and the fuel tank inspection cover. Remove the plastic front wheel arch guards. remove both bumpers. Remove front and rear light assemblies. Remove door casings and peel down polythene shedders.
1). Spray lower door seams with Dinitrol ML fluid along length of each door.
2). Spray inner door panels with clear Waxoyl.
3). Refit shedders and door trims.
4). Treat the 3 trim clip holes for each sill step cover for rust using kurust and paint around each hole to reduce further corrosion using ProtectaKote.
5). Spray Waxoyl into both front and rear sections of both sills through grommet holes and trim clip holes on the upper surface.
6). Spray Waxoyl onto upper fuel tank surfaces through inspection cover and under rear parcel shelf around rear screen drain holes and valleys.
7). Spray Waxoyl behind rear wheel arches through holes behind seat belt stantions and through vent holes behind rear bumper and access via either side of inner boot.
8). Spray Waxoyl around fuel filler neck inside boot and behind filler flap.
9). Spray Waxoyl into all suspension and floor box sections.
10). Spray Waxoyl into seam areas of boot and bonnet panels.
Spray Dinitrol Metallic Wax (Aerosol form) over complete underside of floor and wheel arches including areas at front and rear of vehicle behind lights after treating any rust areas. Dinitrol Metallic Wax dries to a hard metallic brown wax finish with factory applied appearance.
This is a basic guide and there are other small areas which will be exposed when treating is carried out. Generally if its rusty clean the surface then either apply rust convertor or POR 15 then if its prone to chipping apply ProtecaKote and to protect any surface from salt corrosion and to give an even colour finish apply Dinitrol Metallic Wax.
If anybody has any questions please feel free to email me.
I have treated both of my vehicles in a similar way using similar products and I feel that unless you do the job yourself or have it done by somebody familiar with the Suzuki Cappuccino you will not know whether all areas have been treated and of course when you see the signs of rust through paintwork it's too late and the costs of professional lasting repairs are exceptionally high. Recent messages from owners on the SCORE website quote bills of ?1000 just to repair a pair of corroding rear wheel arches.



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