Power woindows 83 633csi

[aybreeze]

My drivers side window only moves when I physicley pull it up or let it drop down
The motor runs but appears to be spinning withot contacting the regulator
some one told me I need a regulator and some one else said I need motor
I cannot find out how to remove either any idears would be helpfull
I have googled but to no avail

[Chris Wright]

I don't get it, On this forum, didn't I give you the page right out of the Factory Workshop Manual on how to remove it ??

And on the other forum, didn't tlister67 explain how he separated the motor from the regulator gear case so he could remove them without loosing the window tracks, so you wouldn't have to readjust the window (a real PITA), when it was all put back together?

If you don't quit understand something, just ask in the original thread, don't keep starting new ones.

[aybreeze]

I recei two Emails saying I had answers to my post
But when I cliced on the link it opened the page
and said this post is no longer available ?

and your current one I am reading from the post
but had no notification by Email ?
thank you I will try to find original post
Arthur
'

[Chris Wright]

Ah, Ok, I've had a couple of links do that to me lately also.

Your original thread where I answered:
viewtopic.php?t=11375

[aybreeze]

I am very new to these type of sights so please bare with me
how do i find the answer from tlister67 ?

[Chris Wright]

I am very new to these type of sights so please bare with me
how do i find the answer from tlister67 ?

If you can get away with removing it without unbolting the window tracks, it would make things easier by not having to readjust it (PITA).

Go to your original post at BimmerForums:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1395998

If you are not getting an eMail from BimmerForms that there is a response to your post like at BigCoupe, go into your profile and change the setting.

[aybreeze]

i FOLLOWED THE PICTURES SENT AND REMOVED THE MOTOR FIRST WHICH i FOUND TO BE WORKING PERFECTLY EVEN UNDER LOAD ,SO WHY TURNING AND NOT MOVING REGULATOR ?
ON REMOVING THE HEX NUT i FOUND THE ALLEN KEY WAS ALL THE WAY tHROUGH AND THAT IS WHY IT TUNED AND TURNED AND NEVER SEEMED TO LOOSEN OR TIGHTEN
IT WAS INSIDE PUSHING THE MOTOR AWAY FROM THE REGULATOR SO IT WAS PERMANETLEY DISSENGAGED
i THREW IT AWAY PUT BACK THE MOTOR AND ALL IS WELL
EXEPT WHEN I FIRST TESTED i HAD JUST PUT IN THE TWO EASY BOLTS
AND FINISHED ASSEMBLY WITH ONE SPARE !
NEEDLESS TO SAY i NOW HAVE A NEW ACCESS HOLE IN THE DOOR
WHERE YOU CAN REMOVE THAT BOLT IN THE FUTURE
tHANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE hELP

[Brucey]

its a good idea to refit the small screw so that the motor can be disconnected from the mechanism if needs be; this way should the power window fail, you'll be able to wind it manually using the tools in teh tool kit, just like it tells you in the manual.

Chances are that if you had known how this is meant to work at the start, you might have fixed the problem a bit quicker, or am I missing something?

cheers

[aybreeze]

Bruce
Thanks for the info I wish i had realised how it worked before I could have just drilled it o t rather than spendging about thrre hours and trips for parts etc
I had an uncle in Cambridge but that was 50 years ago ,great place though !
I used to work for BMW in Sidcup kent 1979 t0 1983
also my speedometer is dead plus odometer ,it dwill light up in the dark when i put lights on so must have power ?
any good idears mate !
Arthur

[Brucey]

all these jobs are easy in retrospect!

The speedo is electrically driven on post'82 6ers.

The lights are near enough completely separate.

There is a known weakness in the instrument cluster that causes failure of several things and the speedo and odo are some of them although the tacho normally plays up too. Basically the circuit boards get bad joints in them sometimes from leaking SI batteries.

If you check the speedo sender on the diff, one wire should look earthy and one should measure +12v on a digital meter. The sender itself is very reliable but it has a reed switch in it; if you turn the rear wheels you should see the sender make continutity several times per wheel revolution; no continuity = no speedo or odo.

I'd check the sender first then the cluster. If you can get the correct cluster sh known good this can save a lot of aggro. Sometimes the old ones can be fixed; some fit remote batteries to avoid future problems.

hth

cheers

[madridcab]

Bringing back up old post.., have this issue, due to bad contact in a switch, passenger window would not go up, so followed the instructions to do manually. However, turned the little allen bolt too far and it disengaged, and now I can not get it to re engage to get it out again for the motor to reengage and operate window. Would prefer to fix without demounting window, as perfectly aligned now. Anybody know of any trick for this?

Anyone has input on this one?

[madridcab]

Anybody? Based on previous posts, was thinking I may just drill out the centers of the white plasic nut, including the hex screw, and the window motors should engage again?

Or would I just make the situation worse?

[madridcab]

Decided to throw caution to the wind, drilled out the little hex bolt, and power window is operative again, took all of 5 minutes.., I guess I no longer have the option to use the no longer present hex bolt to operate the window manually, but can live with that.., thanks to original poster for the very useful info , and to all, if you want to operate windows manually, careful you do not turn the hex bolt too far in , it will disengage, and is difficult to make it engage again ..