Those pesky squirters II -revenge of the squirter...
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
Those pesky squirters II -revenge of the squirter...
Refitting headlight assemblies;
You need to first fit the headlight assemblies back on the car without the wiper arms fitted AND without the link rod arm tight on the actuator. This is so that you can cycle the system when it is back on the car; this means the actuators will definitely be in the park position- something you can't be sure of otherwise. Once parked you can tighten the link and fit the arms.
Even if parked OK, you may well find that the wiper arms foul on the upper grille mountings, and this may bust the little plastic covers, so its best to leave them off.
Before fitting the arms, its an excellent idea to blather (this is a technical term) the springs and pivots with waxoyl- this will keep them free moving and corrosion-free for years.
New OE wiper blades are about 5GBP a go, and I don't know of any suitable alternatives. But I would bet money the same thing is fitted to another vehicle and the part is mysteriously cheaper....
Wiring Diagram:
I have produced a circuit diagram for the wash-wipe circuit, which includes the internal switches inside the actuators. Hopefully this will make their function clearer.
Squirters;
A word on valves; this is complicated.... I have drawn out the plumbing in a diagram, also, there is a picture below of the various flavours of valves. Now the #1 thing is that your headlight squirter valves are in perfect condition; if not all your washer fluid will siphon out on the floor. The original valve is a combined splitter/non-return valve with anti-siphon function. The only part that might be a suitable substitute for the BMW one is a Mercedes item (which looks better made to me). The BMW one will work OK for a long time, but will eventually lose its anti-siphon function. I fitted two new, genuine BMW check valves near the headlight nozzles, which I regard an improvement over the original arrangement. Generic non-return valves are 1/3rd the price, but DO NOT WORK. I tested several and they all leaked and had no anti-siphon function.
The current pattern BMW check valves are not perfect, they tend to fail and will then either leak through the side vent hole or actually block flow. New ones cost about 4.5GBP each.
Older type BMW OE one-way valves (metal clip) are OK (less likely to block or leak when they fail) but lose their anti-siphon function over time.
The same valves are used for the windscreen washer system; here their non-leak/anti-siphon function is still desirable, otherwise the system won't function correctly. If your system is faulty (eg intensive reservoir self-filling like mine was) fitting check valves in the indicated optional positions may be a quick way of restoring some function. The breaks in the hose run can be useful later on if the bonnet (hood) is to be removed.
Pipes:
The OE hoses are of excellent quality, and the fabric reinforcement is at the correct angle that internal pressure actually tightens the hose on the barb. The pipes are secured with a special type Oetiker clip, 9.5mm diameter. These are not widely available, but you can use a standard 7-9mm Oetiker clip provided you slip it over the barb before the hose- they won't go over together. You definitely need the clips, especially on any joints in the bonnet (hood)- these get hot from the engine and can just fall off without the clips fitted.
Pumps:
The standard pump is a VDO item with clearly marked + and - terminals. These pumps are remarkably powerful. With no nozzles fitted, a pump will shift a pint of water in about fifteen seconds. Pumps draw a little less than 1 amp, but obviously spike more than this when they start up. These pumps won't prime unless fitted below the fluid level, i.e. they won't 'suck'.
Washer reservoir:
You will notice some weird loops apparently going back into the reservoir from the pumps; this is no illusion, when the pumps work some fluid is returned to the reservoir. This apparent leak is to enable the pumps to prime properly; without this, and with check valves in good condition, it is possible that the pumps won't prime. The reservoir is common to cars with and without headlight squirters, but 'with' means that two pumps are secured on a special frame underneath, instead of just one. The two-pump frame costs about 40GBP with pumps from BMW.
Obviously a second pump can be added by anyone with a little metalworking/bodging ability. In either case do not neglect to use the priming loop fitted to the reservoir for the second pump.
Windscreen Nozzles;
Early nozzles are simple enough; later ones have an electrical heater built in. I have yet to fathom the circuit for this, or where the thermal switch is.
Headlight nozzles;
these are fastened to the grille with a 3.0mm diameter 15mm long phillips self-tapper. If they are like mine they will be corroded; I went with stainless ones. There is no heater on these nozzles, so they can freeze up.
Normal function of 'intensive' clean:
Pushing the RH stalk button in activates the intensive system. First, the intensive pump runs for a couple of seconds; this puts concentrated fluid into the windscreen system. If your check valves are in good condition some fluid will come out of the nozzles. Right after this the main pump fires up, forcing any intensive fluid in the pipework out of the nozzles, followed by stuff from the regular reservoir. The windscreen wipers then run for a few cycles. If the lights are on, the headlight wash-wipe also fires up, typically three wipes, with a squirt once per wipe. In the diagram I have prepared, you can see how the RH actuator triggers the headlight squirters directly; if the actuator isn't moving, you won't get any squirting either. The headlight cleaning system takes about ten to fifteen seconds to reset; pressing the intensive button again before then runs the windscreen system but not the headlight one.
Simple Retro-fit headlight cleaning system:
With a third pump, a relay, some check valves, pipes, and nozzles a 'squirter only' headlight cleaning system can be built. This is akin to the ones fitted to modern BMWs (the wipers were eventually deemed too expensive and unreliable, not to mention un-aerodynamic). The headlight pump can be switched from the relay using a feeds from either of the original pumps for the relay coil (the pumps are 'switched low' as far as I know) and the power feed from the lighting circuit (switched high). The headlight squirters will only work at the same time as whichever original pump is used, AND the lights are on. I would suggest that for this system you need at least two nozzles per headlight, so fitting four of the paired ones meant for the windscreen (maybe with the heater circuit wired in to stop freezing) would make sense. A system of this type will likely be simpler, lighter, way more reliable, and almost as effective as the original wiper arrangement.
Having renovated the entire wiper system on my '87, I have to say its quite a lot of work, but it is worth it I reckon. Along the way I've also got most of the bits I shall need for a 'squirter only' system for the project car.
Hope this helps anyone else attempting this work, please point out any obvious omissions or errors,
cheers
You need to first fit the headlight assemblies back on the car without the wiper arms fitted AND without the link rod arm tight on the actuator. This is so that you can cycle the system when it is back on the car; this means the actuators will definitely be in the park position- something you can't be sure of otherwise. Once parked you can tighten the link and fit the arms.
Even if parked OK, you may well find that the wiper arms foul on the upper grille mountings, and this may bust the little plastic covers, so its best to leave them off.
Before fitting the arms, its an excellent idea to blather (this is a technical term) the springs and pivots with waxoyl- this will keep them free moving and corrosion-free for years.
New OE wiper blades are about 5GBP a go, and I don't know of any suitable alternatives. But I would bet money the same thing is fitted to another vehicle and the part is mysteriously cheaper....
Wiring Diagram:
I have produced a circuit diagram for the wash-wipe circuit, which includes the internal switches inside the actuators. Hopefully this will make their function clearer.
Squirters;
A word on valves; this is complicated.... I have drawn out the plumbing in a diagram, also, there is a picture below of the various flavours of valves. Now the #1 thing is that your headlight squirter valves are in perfect condition; if not all your washer fluid will siphon out on the floor. The original valve is a combined splitter/non-return valve with anti-siphon function. The only part that might be a suitable substitute for the BMW one is a Mercedes item (which looks better made to me). The BMW one will work OK for a long time, but will eventually lose its anti-siphon function. I fitted two new, genuine BMW check valves near the headlight nozzles, which I regard an improvement over the original arrangement. Generic non-return valves are 1/3rd the price, but DO NOT WORK. I tested several and they all leaked and had no anti-siphon function.
The current pattern BMW check valves are not perfect, they tend to fail and will then either leak through the side vent hole or actually block flow. New ones cost about 4.5GBP each.
Older type BMW OE one-way valves (metal clip) are OK (less likely to block or leak when they fail) but lose their anti-siphon function over time.
The same valves are used for the windscreen washer system; here their non-leak/anti-siphon function is still desirable, otherwise the system won't function correctly. If your system is faulty (eg intensive reservoir self-filling like mine was) fitting check valves in the indicated optional positions may be a quick way of restoring some function. The breaks in the hose run can be useful later on if the bonnet (hood) is to be removed.
Pipes:
The OE hoses are of excellent quality, and the fabric reinforcement is at the correct angle that internal pressure actually tightens the hose on the barb. The pipes are secured with a special type Oetiker clip, 9.5mm diameter. These are not widely available, but you can use a standard 7-9mm Oetiker clip provided you slip it over the barb before the hose- they won't go over together. You definitely need the clips, especially on any joints in the bonnet (hood)- these get hot from the engine and can just fall off without the clips fitted.
Pumps:
The standard pump is a VDO item with clearly marked + and - terminals. These pumps are remarkably powerful. With no nozzles fitted, a pump will shift a pint of water in about fifteen seconds. Pumps draw a little less than 1 amp, but obviously spike more than this when they start up. These pumps won't prime unless fitted below the fluid level, i.e. they won't 'suck'.
Washer reservoir:
You will notice some weird loops apparently going back into the reservoir from the pumps; this is no illusion, when the pumps work some fluid is returned to the reservoir. This apparent leak is to enable the pumps to prime properly; without this, and with check valves in good condition, it is possible that the pumps won't prime. The reservoir is common to cars with and without headlight squirters, but 'with' means that two pumps are secured on a special frame underneath, instead of just one. The two-pump frame costs about 40GBP with pumps from BMW.
Obviously a second pump can be added by anyone with a little metalworking/bodging ability. In either case do not neglect to use the priming loop fitted to the reservoir for the second pump.
Windscreen Nozzles;
Early nozzles are simple enough; later ones have an electrical heater built in. I have yet to fathom the circuit for this, or where the thermal switch is.
Headlight nozzles;
these are fastened to the grille with a 3.0mm diameter 15mm long phillips self-tapper. If they are like mine they will be corroded; I went with stainless ones. There is no heater on these nozzles, so they can freeze up.
Normal function of 'intensive' clean:
Pushing the RH stalk button in activates the intensive system. First, the intensive pump runs for a couple of seconds; this puts concentrated fluid into the windscreen system. If your check valves are in good condition some fluid will come out of the nozzles. Right after this the main pump fires up, forcing any intensive fluid in the pipework out of the nozzles, followed by stuff from the regular reservoir. The windscreen wipers then run for a few cycles. If the lights are on, the headlight wash-wipe also fires up, typically three wipes, with a squirt once per wipe. In the diagram I have prepared, you can see how the RH actuator triggers the headlight squirters directly; if the actuator isn't moving, you won't get any squirting either. The headlight cleaning system takes about ten to fifteen seconds to reset; pressing the intensive button again before then runs the windscreen system but not the headlight one.
Simple Retro-fit headlight cleaning system:
With a third pump, a relay, some check valves, pipes, and nozzles a 'squirter only' headlight cleaning system can be built. This is akin to the ones fitted to modern BMWs (the wipers were eventually deemed too expensive and unreliable, not to mention un-aerodynamic). The headlight pump can be switched from the relay using a feeds from either of the original pumps for the relay coil (the pumps are 'switched low' as far as I know) and the power feed from the lighting circuit (switched high). The headlight squirters will only work at the same time as whichever original pump is used, AND the lights are on. I would suggest that for this system you need at least two nozzles per headlight, so fitting four of the paired ones meant for the windscreen (maybe with the heater circuit wired in to stop freezing) would make sense. A system of this type will likely be simpler, lighter, way more reliable, and almost as effective as the original wiper arrangement.
Having renovated the entire wiper system on my '87, I have to say its quite a lot of work, but it is worth it I reckon. Along the way I've also got most of the bits I shall need for a 'squirter only' system for the project car.
Hope this helps anyone else attempting this work, please point out any obvious omissions or errors,
cheers
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- 6er wash-wipev3.jpg (62.36 KiB) Viewed 36024 times
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~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Brucey = Technical hands-on guru & brilliant author!
I am consistently amazed at the depth & quality of your technical articles Brucey! Am speechless to put it mildly.
Bravo, Brucey!
Hot DAAMN!!
Don't have these little washers, but I found myself reading on,... in awe!!:shock:
IC
Don't have these little washers, but I found myself reading on,... in awe!!:shock:
IC
!!!!!!
Brucey - you're a bloody genius!
I had to rewire and replumb my windscreen washers about 12 months ago and ended up cutting off the headlight supply and just leaving it!
I wish I'd had this information then!
It's got me thinking I might revisit it and repair the headlight system.
Good on ya
I had to rewire and replumb my windscreen washers about 12 months ago and ended up cutting off the headlight supply and just leaving it!
I wish I'd had this information then!
It's got me thinking I might revisit it and repair the headlight system.
Good on ya
Mark E
'82 635csi
In the Land Downunder
'82 635csi
In the Land Downunder
I would absolutely love to get the whole system working but it's just such a high maintenance system with multiple weak spots causing failure :? .Simple Retro-fit headlight cleaning system:
With a third pump, a relay, some check valves, pipes, and nozzles a 'squirter only' headlight cleaning system can be built. This is akin to the ones fitted to modern BMWs (the wipers were eventually deemed too expensive and unreliable, not to mention un-aerodynamic). The headlight pump can be switched from the relay using a feeds from either of the original pumps for the relay coil (the pumps are 'switched low' as far as I know) and the power feed from the lighting circuit (switched high). The headlight squirters will only work at the same time as whichever original pump is used, AND the lights are on. I would suggest that for this system you need at least two nozzles per headlight, so fitting four of the paired ones meant for the windscreen (maybe with the heater circuit wired in to stop freezing) would make sense. A system of this type will likely be simpler, lighter, way more reliable, and almost as effective as the original wiper arrangement.
The winter before last I fitted a simple piggy back wire from the intensive washer pump to the headlight washer pump and thus when the intensive washer is used so the headlamp jets come on .
The nozzles themselves were fairly blocked and took a little time to clear and after that they started dribbling and syphoning and kept draining the whole washer tank . I fitted an after market non-return valve in the line but as Brucey says they're not very good and mine wasn't robust enough to fully prevent the syphoning so I extended the pipe between the headlamp washer pump and the nozzles up and over the tank and fitted the NRV there for easy replacement
It may not be the most elegant solution - but it's simple and after two winters with salt, muck and grime I can report it works very well. And all I do is carry a another NRV (alongside a main power relay - another essential) and when I see the headlamp nozzles dribbling it's a 10 second job to replace it
I'm not trying to detract from Bruceys excellent article because I've printed it off ready to have a go with my mostly garaged M6 but for my daily driver 635 I couldn't justify the many hours of work necessary to get it perfectly right.
Kudos to you Brucey - is there anything you don't know about these cars
Sharkfan
[quote="sharkfan
Kudos to you Brucey - is there anything you don't know about these cars
Sharkfan[/quote]
-plenty; before I started on this I knew next to nothing about it, but I found out and thought you guys might like to know...
thanks for your kind words all...
cheers
Kudos to you Brucey - is there anything you don't know about these cars
Sharkfan[/quote]
-plenty; before I started on this I knew next to nothing about it, but I found out and thought you guys might like to know...
thanks for your kind words all...
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
the headlight squirters would use about 2.5 to 3m of hose I reckon, might be a bit less if anything.
The windscreen system would use about the same again, maybe a bit more.
I guess you could measure it with a piece of string without too much difficulty.
cheers
The windscreen system would use about the same again, maybe a bit more.
I guess you could measure it with a piece of string without too much difficulty.
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The heated stock squirters on my '88 are shot. One is cracked in half. I'd like to replace these with newer BMW or Mercedes heated units (dealer wants $65.00 each).
Anybody fitted othert squirters?
Also, will neoprene hose work in place of the stock stuff, which is incredibly exensive? I know this may be sinful, but heck, times are tough and I just want to keep the old girl running...
Anybody fitted othert squirters?
Also, will neoprene hose work in place of the stock stuff, which is incredibly exensive? I know this may be sinful, but heck, times are tough and I just want to keep the old girl running...
Windshield washer system redo
Hi Folks,
I redid my washer system on my '87 & '88 m cars.
I bought some stainless oetiker one ear clamps, and new squirters and hose, & fittings.
Best,
I redid my washer system on my '87 & '88 m cars.
I bought some stainless oetiker one ear clamps, and new squirters and hose, & fittings.
Best,
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- 1987
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- 1988
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Jay
'88 M6, Red/Tan
My NEW Website https://www.jaysbmwparts.com/
'88 M6, Red/Tan
My NEW Website https://www.jaysbmwparts.com/
Cost of Cohline 4.5 mm ID
Brucey,Brucey wrote:nice job!
BTW I recently discovered that my local hardware store has hose that is near identical to the BMW stuff, for about £1 per metre.
cheers
That's a good price,
AutohausAZ.com sells it for $2.63 per meter. Cohline 4.5 mm ID
And huskerparts.com BMW sells it for $4.14 per meter.
Best,
Jay
'88 M6, Red/Tan
My NEW Website https://www.jaysbmwparts.com/
'88 M6, Red/Tan
My NEW Website https://www.jaysbmwparts.com/
Re: Windshield washer system redo
JCS wrote:Hi Folks,
I redid my washer system on my '87 & '88 m cars.
I bought some stainless oetiker one ear clamps, and new squirters and hose, & fittings.
Best,
PM Sent.
Another fab thread into esoterica for those of us with OCDC needed to keep our cars on the road. Bravo Brucey!
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Bottle Hoses
Brucey
Thanks for the great write up. Now I know why my system wasn't working for more than 15 minutes - no check valves!
Can you provide more insight on the connections coming off the fluid bottle itself? You alluded to it being plumbed to prime the pump. Mine is done this way, which I am sure isn't right.
This is for a e12 based car, without headlight or intensive washers.
If you can't give me an answer, I will have to have Bobbo open his hood and take some pics!
Cheers,
Dale
Thanks for the great write up. Now I know why my system wasn't working for more than 15 minutes - no check valves!
Can you provide more insight on the connections coming off the fluid bottle itself? You alluded to it being plumbed to prime the pump. Mine is done this way, which I am sure isn't right.
This is for a e12 based car, without headlight or intensive washers.
If you can't give me an answer, I will have to have Bobbo open his hood and take some pics!
Cheers,
Dale
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- IMG_0990.JPG (104.89 KiB) Viewed 25334 times
nope, that's not right at all I'm afraid... that is a two-motor tank and there is no motor bracket (it may not be the correct motor) and the hose connections have been used in a weird way...
But if it works for you maybe that is good enough!
BTW I think you will see better how it is meant to be if you look in the ETK.
cheers
But if it works for you maybe that is good enough!
BTW I think you will see better how it is meant to be if you look in the ETK.
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Brucey, is there any way you could wire the pesky headlight wipers up to a switch instead of the fiddly and troubkesome relays?
2001 Alpina B10 V8 Touring (1 of 12 rhd)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
I daresay that would be possible.
But having messed about with these systems a fair bit now, I am of the view that the relay is actually one of the more reliable parts of the system. It is all the other stuff that usually goes tits up TBH.
If the relay does fail it is a fairly simple analogue circuit. If one or two components fail on it then the majority of them could be replaced for pennies.
cheers
But having messed about with these systems a fair bit now, I am of the view that the relay is actually one of the more reliable parts of the system. It is all the other stuff that usually goes tits up TBH.
If the relay does fail it is a fairly simple analogue circuit. If one or two components fail on it then the majority of them could be replaced for pennies.
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No...you are right. That is a generic aftermarket motor. OEM motor is 5x the price.Brucey wrote:nope, that's not right at all I'm afraid... that is a two-motor tank and there is no motor bracket (it may not be the correct motor) and the hose connections have been used in a weird way...
But if it works for you maybe that is good enough!
BTW I think you will see better how it is meant to be if you look in the ETK.
cheers
I will see what happens after my parts come in and see if that makes a difference.
I may be back to this thread!
Dale