problems with door shutting properly
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
problems with door shutting properly
I hope someone has an answer for me. the door wouldn't shut and saw that the rubber bump stop was messed up, so got a new one. within a few days, that one is messed up too. what do i need to adjust to prevent this from happening again. see attached photo
- Attachments
-
- door bump stop.JPG (264.93 KiB) Viewed 9329 times
Last edited by jlbsam on Mon May 11, 2015 8:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
you need to adjust either the hinges or (less likely) the 'V' part in the doorframe that engages with the wedge.
When the hinges are worn the door can sag and then the V has to work hard against the wedge as the door closes.
Eventually the V develops a sharp edge that tears the wedge up as the door closes. Buy a new wedge, and you are addressing the symptom, not the cause of the problem.
If the hinges are worn (or deformed where they mount eg because the door is cracked...) the door will be hanging noticeably low just before the wedge engages with the V.
BTW when you have fixed the wedge/V issue you should get a new striker knob for the latch itself; that part is missing too.
cheers
When the hinges are worn the door can sag and then the V has to work hard against the wedge as the door closes.
Eventually the V develops a sharp edge that tears the wedge up as the door closes. Buy a new wedge, and you are addressing the symptom, not the cause of the problem.
If the hinges are worn (or deformed where they mount eg because the door is cracked...) the door will be hanging noticeably low just before the wedge engages with the V.
BTW when you have fixed the wedge/V issue you should get a new striker knob for the latch itself; that part is missing too.
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- hornhospital
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2931
- Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:46 pm
- Location: Silverhill, AL
- Contact:
I've resized that picture so we can see without scrolling all over...
EDIT: you beat me to it.
Yes, you need a new bump stop, part number 51211823487, but you also need a new "thumb" for the catch (circled), part number 51211809735. It's supposed to have that little rubber cover on it to help the latch trip over.
See thread here. It's about 12 posts down....:
viewtopic.php?p=114573&sid=04eb7b3f95c9 ... b23b9d783a
EDIT: you beat me to it.
Yes, you need a new bump stop, part number 51211823487, but you also need a new "thumb" for the catch (circled), part number 51211809735. It's supposed to have that little rubber cover on it to help the latch trip over.
See thread here. It's about 12 posts down....:
viewtopic.php?p=114573&sid=04eb7b3f95c9 ... b23b9d783a
- Attachments
-
- door_bump_stop_107.jpg (283.45 KiB) Viewed 9326 times
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
sure, but the (bump stop) wedge piece is all torn up and that only happens when the door and/or the wedge vs V piece alignment is bad.
Just fitting new parts doesn't work, as the OP has discovered; you need to fix the underlying door alignment problem....
The little rubber cover is the icing on the cake though!
cheers
Just fitting new parts doesn't work, as the OP has discovered; you need to fix the underlying door alignment problem....
The little rubber cover is the icing on the cake though!
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Look on the catch on the body side (not the door latch). I believe loosening the 3 screws allows it to adjust up/down/sideways.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Without the cover on the catch (circled) you're probably slamming the door really hard to get it to close. Buy the cover, a new rubber for underneath the 3 screws, align the rubber, lube the metal plates on the rubber with grease and good luck.
2001 Alpina B10 V8 Touring (1 of 12 rhd)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
Take pictures of the door almost closed and measure the droop from the bottom tip of the door to the floor vs where it would be when the door is fully closed. Now do it on the other side. Likely to be worse on the driver side as it gets more use.
A great body man will check all gaps when assembling and restoring hoods, trunk lids and doors.
As to the hinges_lubricate the heck out of them with white grease. Latches should get graphite which collects less road grime. And is your door latch mechanism inside the door card in good condition?
A great body man will check all gaps when assembling and restoring hoods, trunk lids and doors.
As to the hinges_lubricate the heck out of them with white grease. Latches should get graphite which collects less road grime. And is your door latch mechanism inside the door card in good condition?
Last edited by sansouci on Mon May 25, 2015 9:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
yes you can do that, but that won't realign the door if the door has sagged, it'll just allow the door to close more easily even though it is in the wrong place....tschultz wrote:Look on the catch on the body side (not the door latch). I believe loosening the 3 screws allows it to adjust up/down/sideways.
If the door isn't aligned (look at the height of the body crease and the window surrounds etc when the door is nearly closed) it can mean that the car has been in a prang or that the whole door surround is distorted because of corrosion etc.
But the most likely thing is that the door hinges are simply worn. They are meant to be lubricated on a regular basis, but this gets skipped over or the wrong grease (eg a non penetrating one) is used. If you try and lift the back edge of the door when it is nearly closed, you will be able to feel any hinge wear as free play.
The other thing that can happen is that the door itself is cracking. usually near the limiter.
If the hinges are worn or the door is sagging the wedge piece is asked to force the door upwards as it is closed, which is why it screws the wedge piece up; it isn't meant to have to do that... moving the 'V' piece just postpones the day you have to fix it properly IMHO.
You can see how the hinges are arranged here
for adjustment, see the online workshop manual.
Do remember that if you alter the door position when then door is closed, you will also need to realign the glass, which is a another PITA job.
The rubber boot thing on the latch allows the door to close more easily but will have little or no influence on the rate at which you will chew up the wedge-shaped buffer.
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Brucy,
So it looks like the hingepin is captive in the hinge (#9) and it must be replaced as a unit while the pin for the limiter (#5) can be replaced. Too bad there doesn't seem to be an easy way to install a zerk fitting on the hinge.
--Ken
So it looks like the hingepin is captive in the hinge (#9) and it must be replaced as a unit while the pin for the limiter (#5) can be replaced. Too bad there doesn't seem to be an easy way to install a zerk fitting on the hinge.
--Ken
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
- Ralph in Socal
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2746
- Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:32 am
- Location: High Desert of SoCal
Most likely worn hinge(s) as Brucey suggested. New ones are (were) available for about $100 each. Good luck Jim.
Ralph
Ralph
There is a very fine line between "Hobby" and Mental Illness.
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
Yes a grease nipple would be good... but a way of lubing them is to use a semi-fluid grease, or heavy oil. Just pry the top cap off the hinge pivot, add some lube, and replace the cap.sansouci wrote:Brucy,
So it looks like the hingepin is captive in the hinge (#9) and it must be replaced as a unit while the pin for the limiter (#5) can be replaced. Too bad there doesn't seem to be an easy way to install a zerk fitting on the hinge.
--Ken
After trying several different versions, I have decided that most spray white greases are intended to give the appearance of maintenance, rather than being actual maintenance; I have yet to find one that either penetrates well or in time doesn't dry out quicker than I'd like.
The final failed experiment with white grease was to lube the throttle linkage. Within six weeks there was a brown stain on the grease overspray. The brown stain was because the bushing surfaces in the linkage were bone-dry and actually going rusty....I've seen the same thing with door hinges, too....
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I will switch from white grease spray lube to something with less viscosity to flow into the wear surfaces.
Ken
Ken
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Does anyone have a good means of loosening the Phillips head hinge bolts on the body? I got out my biggest Phillips head driver (which fits the head well) and my socket wrench, but it just wanted to strip the head, so I stopped before I did too much damage.Brucey wrote:
for adjustment, see the online workshop manual.
Thanks!
1983 633CSi 5-speed Black & Tan
2008 X5 4.8i
2004 MINI Cooper S 6-speed
2001 Z3 3.0i 5-speed
DFW Texas
2008 X5 4.8i
2004 MINI Cooper S 6-speed
2001 Z3 3.0i 5-speed
DFW Texas
- hornhospital
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2931
- Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:46 pm
- Location: Silverhill, AL
- Contact:
Penetrant spray and an impact driver - I used one recently for some corroded and seemingly unmoveable screws - correct tools for the job and done in seconds.
2001 Alpina B10 V8 Touring (1 of 12 rhd)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
This is what you want. But watch your knuckles, buy impact philips tips that I think are #3 and beat 'er. Unless you are replacing the hinge, only loosen it. Otherwise you will have a two man job to rehang it, unless you have a door cradle & lift
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_ ... 0947641000
Let us know how it goes!
Ken
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_ ... 0947641000
Let us know how it goes!
Ken
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
You have exactly the same problem with an impact driver as you do with an impact gun. As soon as you hit the driver it will turn and, if you can't hold it tight enough onto the screw head, the bit will damage the head.
That's why this tool is the best thing since sliced bread!
That's why this tool is the best thing since sliced bread!
They are ALWAYS rustier than you thought!!!!!!
'85 M #228
'87 M #367
'88 High line.
'10 X5
‘84 Alfasud 1.5 ti
'85 M #228
'87 M #367
'88 High line.
'10 X5
‘84 Alfasud 1.5 ti
Ron,
I'm looking at the UASTCO tool catalog and they have several. Here's the link.
http://www.usatco.com/productdetail/M37 ... OOL%20KITS
Can you recommend which one is most appropriate for our needs?
--Ken
I'm looking at the UASTCO tool catalog and they have several. Here's the link.
http://www.usatco.com/productdetail/M37 ... OOL%20KITS
Can you recommend which one is most appropriate for our needs?
--Ken
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Does anyone have a good means of loosening the Phillips head hinge bolts on the body? I got out my biggest Phillips head driver (which fits the head well) and my socket wrench, but it just wanted to strip the head, so I stopped before I did too much damage.
Thanks![/quote]
A "Screw Knocker" with a phillips bit works on these screws, you can find them on ebay.
Thanks![/quote]
A "Screw Knocker" with a phillips bit works on these screws, you can find them on ebay.