I was going to take the wheel off the car and really clean the wheel wells in prep for a rust prevention application. I'm leaning towards using a type of bed liner for the wheel wells.
Are there any drains in the wheel wells that I need to watch out for? I don't want to plug up any drainage points.
Also, if there's a better method or tricks/tips or rust prevention manufacturers anyone has, I would appreciate it.
I've been reading tons of posts and it appears the UK has more variety to great rust products than the US (Rust Buster, Waxol, etc.).
I was leaning towards Permatex "bed liner" spray.
Thanks,
Rust Prevention
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
I would hope anyone would at least say 'no holes' but, nothing?
I wish I could help but, I'm guessing no answer means nothing to hide?
Where are you gurus? This is a very good and valid question to me.
I wish I could help but, I'm guessing no answer means nothing to hide?
Where are you gurus? This is a very good and valid question to me.
Hit the apex
in Long Beach, Cal
Buster/'82Euro6 Build Date 9/81
Rosallina/'80 528i Build Date 4/80
in Long Beach, Cal
Buster/'82Euro6 Build Date 9/81
Rosallina/'80 528i Build Date 4/80
There are a couple of drains in that area .
At the rear there is a water run off drain that runs from the scuttle corners down and exits behind the splash plate that should be fitted behind the wheels .
If these splash plates are still fitted and intact then the exit ports will not be affected by spraying the bed liner.
The horizontal battery tray and the similar on the other side under the washer reservoir have slit drains stamped into the pressings where they adjoin the wheel wells . This is to prevent water that will run down that level pooling .
At the base of the A pillar behind the front wing ( fender ) you should see the sunroof drain tube/pipe protruding . Keep that clear and free .
The horizontal strengthening trumpets that run along the top of the inner wing have two plastic grommets that allow rustproofing solution to be pumped into the cavity within , best to ensure that the bed liner doesn't seal them over AFTER you have pumped some Waxoyl into them .
Pay particular attention to clearing muck and debris off the ledge that runs from the rear gusset past and around the strut mount to the top of forward end of the wheel tub prior to sealing it off with bed liner . 30 mins with a wire brush on the end of a drill flexible drive will pay dividends here in the long run. At the same time I'd pressure wash the whole internal front surfaces of the front wings to remove as much collected muck as absolutely possible . You can remove the front indicators to get right into the front section that has the small baffle plate separating it from the rear of the internal area.
here's a photo that may help you.
At the rear there is a water run off drain that runs from the scuttle corners down and exits behind the splash plate that should be fitted behind the wheels .
If these splash plates are still fitted and intact then the exit ports will not be affected by spraying the bed liner.
The horizontal battery tray and the similar on the other side under the washer reservoir have slit drains stamped into the pressings where they adjoin the wheel wells . This is to prevent water that will run down that level pooling .
At the base of the A pillar behind the front wing ( fender ) you should see the sunroof drain tube/pipe protruding . Keep that clear and free .
The horizontal strengthening trumpets that run along the top of the inner wing have two plastic grommets that allow rustproofing solution to be pumped into the cavity within , best to ensure that the bed liner doesn't seal them over AFTER you have pumped some Waxoyl into them .
Pay particular attention to clearing muck and debris off the ledge that runs from the rear gusset past and around the strut mount to the top of forward end of the wheel tub prior to sealing it off with bed liner . 30 mins with a wire brush on the end of a drill flexible drive will pay dividends here in the long run. At the same time I'd pressure wash the whole internal front surfaces of the front wings to remove as much collected muck as absolutely possible . You can remove the front indicators to get right into the front section that has the small baffle plate separating it from the rear of the internal area.
here's a photo that may help you.
1981 635 series 1
Hmm I have always looked after my cars by oil spraying with clean engine/gear oil from a Schutz gun with the car on a ramp. The main benefit is oil creeps, you can spray a rust section and it will creep into any dry areas that are inaccessible, I have a fleet of old vehicles that love to rust (5x E24's, a Mahindra jeep and Suzuki Sj) all renowned for rusting in the UK damp as hell atmosphere however they havn't deteriorated at all over the last decade (bear in mind Mahindra stopped importing due to cars rusting through at 3 years old, mines a 1993).
The down side to this is its a disgustingly messy job and requires a ramp and compressor, in addition it won't give you the pristine concourse underside to your pride and joy, however you can sleep easy knowing its not rotting from the inside out and one day you can de-grease to reveal solid original metal if you wish.
The other disadvantage is mineral oil and rubber don't get on, so I go round and de-grease the gators, bushes etc (after trying not to spray them in the first place). Obviously don't spray brakes or exhaust!
In addition to this I grease round the wheelarch lips, round the rear lights and trumpet sections of the front wings. I also remove the rear trims to oil and grease the inside (under the window regulator), this soaks oil in from the top of the sill. I also remove door trims, clean the drain holes and then oil the bottom of the doors as they also like to rust.
The problem i've found with off the shelf products is they form a sealed protective layer, which is great however it also traps moisture thus not preventing corrosion and rot but actually speeding up the process, they also don't creep into the hard to reach areas so the car then rots from the inside out. I’ve lost count of the times i've pulled a section of mint looking under seal off a sill/floorpan to reveal a rusty/rotten panel…
This is just my way of preserving my cars, whether right or wrong its kept my collection in good condition for years...
The down side to this is its a disgustingly messy job and requires a ramp and compressor, in addition it won't give you the pristine concourse underside to your pride and joy, however you can sleep easy knowing its not rotting from the inside out and one day you can de-grease to reveal solid original metal if you wish.
The other disadvantage is mineral oil and rubber don't get on, so I go round and de-grease the gators, bushes etc (after trying not to spray them in the first place). Obviously don't spray brakes or exhaust!
In addition to this I grease round the wheelarch lips, round the rear lights and trumpet sections of the front wings. I also remove the rear trims to oil and grease the inside (under the window regulator), this soaks oil in from the top of the sill. I also remove door trims, clean the drain holes and then oil the bottom of the doors as they also like to rust.
The problem i've found with off the shelf products is they form a sealed protective layer, which is great however it also traps moisture thus not preventing corrosion and rot but actually speeding up the process, they also don't creep into the hard to reach areas so the car then rots from the inside out. I’ve lost count of the times i've pulled a section of mint looking under seal off a sill/floorpan to reveal a rusty/rotten panel…
This is just my way of preserving my cars, whether right or wrong its kept my collection in good condition for years...
I purchased (3) aerosol cans of Waxoyl UnderCoating from Rovers North this past Thursday.
I thoroughly washed all of my wheel wells, the inner fender ledges and undercarriage of the car at the local car wash with a power sprayer. I let the car dry for (48) hours and addressed any suspicious areas that looked a little rusty (the car is in really good shape for being 30 years old).
The Waxoyl applied really easily and if used per the instructions went on pretty thick. I had just a little left over, but will probably purchase another can for future touch ups.
As of last night (6 hours after application), it was still pretty nasty to the touch. It did not drip off onto the garage floor though and was a pretty clean application. I'm anxious to see if it hardens up and how it holds up to our salty winter in Kansas City.
Thanks for all of the advice regarding rust prevention.
I thoroughly washed all of my wheel wells, the inner fender ledges and undercarriage of the car at the local car wash with a power sprayer. I let the car dry for (48) hours and addressed any suspicious areas that looked a little rusty (the car is in really good shape for being 30 years old).
The Waxoyl applied really easily and if used per the instructions went on pretty thick. I had just a little left over, but will probably purchase another can for future touch ups.
As of last night (6 hours after application), it was still pretty nasty to the touch. It did not drip off onto the garage floor though and was a pretty clean application. I'm anxious to see if it hardens up and how it holds up to our salty winter in Kansas City.
Thanks for all of the advice regarding rust prevention.
There was a comparison test in a UK mag: maybe Classic Cars or some such thing in the last few year of many of the available (at least in the UK) products. There are also commercial grade products in the US (check the Eastwood Products website)....
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)