I've used warm soapy water on several sets of lights, and it's worked well every time. I'm not sure I'd want to shake around any blasting media in the light, as that's sure to scratch the reflector surface and make it dull.
Dean
Lutz, FL '85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
Just had to do this on a new set of lights. They were new right out of the box from BMW! It is great that BMW is still supplying us with parts for our vintage autos but the current quality SUCKS!. Replacement kidney grills that are plastic, fuse box covers that last a weekend before they look like a Pringles chip and lights that are glued together with an adhesive that clouds lamps before they are even used. Not to mention the crappy Roundels. Some people may argue that the parts are made for BMW and not by BMW directly but, if it is a part sold by BMW then they have accepted the part and are allowing it to be produced to that level.
Rant off.
So the new light that I was working with was constructed with a different adhesive than older ones to secure the glass to the housing and the adhesive has outgassed during the curing phase and caused the clouding. I tried the water with soap with no success and found that wiping was the best method; at least for me. I did not want to remove the glass using the oven method so went a different route. I removed the bulb holder that is attached to the rear of the reflector. It is secured with 3 small tabs and there may be a bead of silicone around the exterior of the housing. I used a small flat blade screw driver to pry the tabs back and then used my pocket knife to cut thru the silicone so the holder could be lifted off. the older lights did not have the silicone on them and this is part of the fogging issue. We manufacture parts here and use silicone adhesive and then wrap the parts in plastic bags before they are shipped. The parts would get foggy and bolts would rust. We never had this problem until we started using the plastic bags before the parts were boxed. Instead of deleting the bag we are now putting desiccant packs in the bag (the do not eat silica packs). Anyway, once the bulb holder is removed you will have more room to work to wipe the glass. I was able to use a small piece of paper towel and my fingers to wipe the glass. You might be able to use a small foam brush or some other implement. Then I rinsed with alcohol and placed the light holder back in place (make sure you note the orientation for proper placement). Then tap the tabs back in place and enjoy the clean light. I chose not to replace the silicone but would not expect the issue from the outside of the bulb holder but mine was also making excellent contact between the original surfaces from where I split the original sealer with a sharp knife.
Alpina B9 coupe (Alpinweiss)
Alpina B9 sedan (Alpinweiss)
Alpina B6 clone in process (Alpinweiss)
Mini S (had to go: it was Electric Blue)
Rover Disco 1 (Alpine White)
Alpinacsi wrote:
....I did not want to remove the glass using the oven method.
I have successfully removed a broken glass using a hair drier and then siliconed the new glass into place. I've done this half a dozen times with no problems.
On a different subject,Todd, are you still looking for the chrome headlight rings with the wiper blade stops?
They are ALWAYS rustier than you thought!!!!!!
'85 M #228
'87 M #367
'88 High line.
'10 X5
‘84 Alfasud 1.5 ti
ron wrote:
On a different subject,Todd, are you still looking for the chrome headlight rings with the wiper blade stops?
I did not work a deal on the set of wipers that were for sale so not at the moment. I have 4 complete sets of wipers and lights that have just been restored and I am always looking for parts for more projects since I have so much spare time.
Thanks anyway just not high on the list of needs.
Alpina B9 coupe (Alpinweiss)
Alpina B9 sedan (Alpinweiss)
Alpina B6 clone in process (Alpinweiss)
Mini S (had to go: it was Electric Blue)
Rover Disco 1 (Alpine White)
