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replacing driver side door

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Tom2941
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2017 11:41 pm
Location: Minnesota

replacing driver side door

Post by Tom2941 » Mon May 28, 2018 1:13 pm

I bought a used door and trying to plan what I might need in advance. The door that I am replacing everything works but is rusted on the lower channel that holds the weather strip. I bought new weather strip and just asking for any ideas what else might be needed. And any tricks on switching the parts. I had all the trim and door handle off when it was painted 5 years ago so that's not to difficult. I will take the door to the body shop to have painted before mounting on the car.

dmac156
Posts: 45
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2016 3:20 am
Location: Portland, Oregon

Re: replacing driver side door

Post by dmac156 » Mon Jun 04, 2018 12:29 am

The door has lots of adjustment points. I replaced the hinge on mine many years ago, and don't remember all the details, but here is an overview. The door needs to be adjusted before adjusting the window. In the online e24 manual, it shows the proper adjustment measurements. The front edge of the door should be slightly in relative to the fender (so it does no protrude into the windstream), all the gaps front to back should be even (front to back), and it shouldn't have any twist. It might be easier to get it lined up, then install the latch, then double check how it lines up.

Once the door is adjusted, you can start on the window. The good news is that there are lots of adjustments on the door and window, so you will be able to get it set correctly. The bad news is that you have to set all of them. There was a webpage, many Norms Grille or Big Coupe, that showed all the adjustment points, and what they did. But you can adjust the top of the window inboard and outboard, forward and aft, and set skew. It could take a couple of hours the first time doing it.

Do some searching for more instructions, take your time, and let us know how it goes.

ron
Senior Member
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Location: South Wales U.K.

Re: replacing driver side door

Post by ron » Mon Jun 04, 2018 6:04 am

dmac156

Put your location in your profile as requested by admin.
They are ALWAYS rustier than you thought!!!!!!
'88 High line.
'85 M #228
'85 M #207
'80 735i

Tom2941
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2017 11:41 pm
Location: Minnesota

Re: replacing driver side door

Post by Tom2941 » Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:39 pm

Thanks for the heads up. Picked up the door yesterday at greyhound and dropped of at the body shop today.

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Da_Hose
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Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 8:15 am
Location: Napa, Ca.

Re: replacing driver side door

Post by Da_Hose » Tue Jun 05, 2018 12:41 am

One tip is to let the door dry for a while, if possible. An oft quoted rule of thumb for new paint is 30 days before waxing, so it can off-gas. If you can let the door sit for a month or so in a garage, the paint will be fully hardened.

Aligning the door is just what dmac said. Front edge can be in by up to 1mm to reduce wind noise, swage marks on door and body should align height-wise, edge gaps should be even top to bottom. Also loosen the striker slightly and make sure the rubber guide enters without rubbing.

Also, the window should not be adjusted totally square to the gasket, or it crushes the little lip designed to overlap the window and seal things up. The front edge should contact just before the rear, so it can slip under that edge of the gasket lip. The rest of the window works its way under as the door finishes closing. If it seems unclear, you can look at things closely to understand what I mean about that sealing lip.
Jose
1987 M6 - My dream car

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