Page 1 of 1

Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2018 5:52 pm
by janusz200
Engine is off so it’s good opportunity to replace destroyed insulation on fire wall in engine compartment as in photo. Original is not available since long time. To be close to original I’m looking for black color material. Please advise what to use and how to fix.
splash wall insulation.jpg
splash wall insulation.jpg (61.39 KiB) Viewed 7590 times

Re: Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2018 7:59 pm
by Dmckim
I would ask Bert to chime in here, but he had me get a sheet of neoprene and I glued it to the firewall. I was able to get in the correct thickness, so it lined up pretty well. It was obviously black.

Dale
Buffalo, NY

Re: Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2018 8:19 pm
by GRNSHRK
Dale, how did you get it in there without yanking the engine :-k

Nice idea on the Neoprene, I was thinking something more along the lines of Dynomat :-?

So, how's life in Buffalo #-o

Oh shit, stealing this guy's thread [-X

Re: Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2018 3:08 pm
by janusz200
GRNSHRK wrote: Fri Oct 26, 2018 8:19 pm Oh shit, stealing this guy's thread [-X
- no problem.

Dale, what was the glue? How long is this mat in your car? Is everything OK with it?

Re: Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:46 pm
by bpoliakoff
Berts chiming in. I did mine with engine out, but with first making a cardborad template using 2 layers of neoprene of different thickness The reason being was twofold. one is/was I could get the exact thickness that way and the other was it was much easier to lay up on the car. I used very hi grade contact cement bought in a gallon can from an upholstery supply store. I used one of my spray guns to apply it. If the glue scewed it up I didn't care as the gun could be rebuilt in total for $35. For those of you who don't know how to use contact cement, it is applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry until it feels almost dry to the touch and then the two surfaces are mated together....carefully as you don't have much wiggle room. The stuff bonds together and is more than difficult to separate. Mine looks factory and I am sure Dale's came out well. I did mine engine out and have to give Dale a lot of credit for doing it with engine in

Re: Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 5:04 pm
by sansouci
You may want to look at this discussion on Black vs Silver Dynamat:

https://driveviper.com/forums/threads/1 ... mat-to-use

--Ken

Re: Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 3:55 pm
by Dmckim
I did mine with the engine out, so not that impressive.

The place where I bought the neoprene had some adhesive. I cannot remember off hand exactly what it was, but I know it was a 3M product, and think it was green. I can look to see if I still have the can, but not confident.

It has been in at least six years. No issues.

Not snowing yet, Bob.

Dale
Buffalo, NY
1980 633csi

Re: Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 6:37 pm
by janusz200
Finally I did mine – 3 afternoons, I didn’t expect it could take so much work, even with engine out.

I choosed compromise between original look and proper job – bottom part is properly done I hope while upper covered with black EPDM mat looks nice.

Bottom part – firs layer is 2 mm butyl rubber mat – something like Dynamat. It’s sound protection – heavy, well sticked to the sheet therefore damps low frequency noises according to theory. The polyurethane foam with aluminium top self sticking mat is on the top. It’s enough heat resistant I hope not to repeat this whole job for next 10 years. Joints are protected with butyl tape with Alu on top. Both steps are on photos. Rust color spots are the rest of old glue that I gave up to remove. After 2 hours of cleaning with fat cleaner I almost saw everything double.

Upper part of splash wall cover – it’s just foamed EPDM 5mm thick self sticking mat. Neoprene or NBR could be also good. EPDM is good enough due to moderate heat resistance. The surface is less tear-resistant than original bithumen mat but it’s OK for me – I’ll treat it with care and love. Another story is how to fix it flat and straight without tucks, bubles etc. after protection paper removing.

Nothing is done behind servo – but let’s don’t overdo. I’m happy with what I’ve done.

Re: Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 8:01 pm
by GRNSHRK
Wow, that looks impressive, think I'll be referring back to this thread =D>

Say, your 6er wouldn't happen to be Cypress Green, would it [-o<

And would it just happen to be the same one in this photo :-k

I'd like to know a bit more if it is, model year, S/N perhaps, as it would be interesting to see how far apart our 6ers were built :-"

From what I've seen, it was like one day that BMW said, "OK, we're painting all of them Cypress Green today", and that was it \:D/

Re: Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2018 6:59 am
by jps635
That looks really good - well done.

I did my lower bulkhead and front section of the tunnel with a gold woven mat, but left the upper splash panel in its cracked state as it looked like a real prick of a job

Re: Engine compartment – firewall insulation

Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2018 8:50 am
by janusz200
No, it's not mine however I know this car. It's 1981 model 635 CSi M90 Motronic, automatic gearbox. As far I know it's very well maintained.

My car is really Zypressen Grün 1980 3,5 l M90 manual with pealr Beige upholstery. I like this combination very much and maybe I'm not only one who had liked it that time.
GRNSHRK wrote: Tue Nov 06, 2018 8:01 pm From what I've seen, it was like one day that BMW said, "OK, we're painting all of them Cypress Green today", and that was it \:D/
I think that such a decission would concern rather "feldgrau" than Zypressen Grün. But there's something in it - now they use black paint mostly. Ehh, 80's was a good time.
jps635 wrote: Wed Nov 07, 2018 6:59 amI did my lower bulkhead and front section of the tunnel with a gold woven mat, but left the upper splash panel in its cracked state as it looked like a real prick of a job
Upper part is possible to do even with engine in but You need a healthy spine and a lot of patience. I'll give You some hints if You would decide to do it.