Thanks for the link. Sucks about the plug wire theft. That's a pretty silly thing to take from someone.tschultz wrote: ↑Sat Oct 07, 2017 9:31 pm Yeah: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showth ... p?t=381139
He didn't update it lately but took it to D4C 2016, there are some photos on the website showing it. Actually somebody stole 2 of his spark plug wires and he left the car out there until a month later when he could pick it up and drive it home!
1980 635CSi Euro
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
- captain awesome
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Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
84 633csi 5 spd
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Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
That's something new. Someone stole 2 spark plug wires? Geez, I can't figure what people are thinking.tschultz wrote: ↑Sat Oct 07, 2017 9:31 pm Yeah: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showth ... p?t=381139
He didn't update it lately but took it to D4C 2016, there are some photos on the website showing it. Actually somebody stole 2 of his spark plug wires and he left the car out there until a month later when he could pick it up and drive it home!
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
- zinnocoupe
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2014 12:57 am
- Location: Vancouver BC
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
I imagine some old bimmer with lots of differed maintenance braking down some where near where the car was sitting and the owner of broken down car helping himself to what he needed to get home, or just kids playing a "joke" Either way must have been annoying.
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
A short video from a 20 minute session at the track: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfwzNdDKwK8
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
I adjusted mine by hand yesterday and it appears pretty close to this. Haven't done it with a light yet though.
Also for reference, I used the L-block head gasket BMW 11-12-1-730-951, elring #772.992. I got from blunttech.com and have to provide my title to get one ordered. They will not allow you to buy 2...
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
Another hold up from driving the car...
After putting a few hundred miles on it, I noticed this strange sound with the clutch.
Some suggest throwout bearing. Other ideas?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSVJOoPAdiI
After putting a few hundred miles on it, I noticed this strange sound with the clutch.
Some suggest throwout bearing. Other ideas?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSVJOoPAdiI
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
- zinnocoupe
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2014 12:57 am
- Location: Vancouver BC
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
Input shaft bearing? Just throwing the suggestion out there. Throw out bearing seems more likely.
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
As an update,
I'm currently in process of removing the transmission from the car. I dropped everything from underneath and have the transmission tilted but need to continue removing it by separating the engine from the trans at the bellhousing or the bellhousing from the body of transmission (G265 dogleg).
Interestingly, this car has hex bolts holding the two together, so maybe it wasn't until the E28 changeover that they started using TORX bolts. The transmission is greasy so it's a messy job, hope to make a bit of progress this weekend and have the transmission out.
May buy S wrenches to get the last bolt free from the bellhousing and pull that out separately. Not fun, but doing this to replace TO bearing. Will have to see what other parts I'd like to replace since it will be apart
I'm currently in process of removing the transmission from the car. I dropped everything from underneath and have the transmission tilted but need to continue removing it by separating the engine from the trans at the bellhousing or the bellhousing from the body of transmission (G265 dogleg).
Interestingly, this car has hex bolts holding the two together, so maybe it wasn't until the E28 changeover that they started using TORX bolts. The transmission is greasy so it's a messy job, hope to make a bit of progress this weekend and have the transmission out.
May buy S wrenches to get the last bolt free from the bellhousing and pull that out separately. Not fun, but doing this to replace TO bearing. Will have to see what other parts I'd like to replace since it will be apart
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
- zinnocoupe
- Posts: 506
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- Location: Vancouver BC
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
Tom, sounds like a lot of fun. I just thought I would mention ( I'm, sure you've read the same stuff I have ) I have usually read that most guys use a bunch of extensions and wobbles etc to attack the infamous top bolt on the bellhousing. It sounds complicated but maybe it works better than S wrenches? IDK as I've never done it myself. Good luck with it.
Both my 77 and 79 have hex head bolts . I think I read somewhere after a couple of years of e28 production they switched to Torxs. Not sure
When you get the tranny out I'd be interested to hear how much the input shaft wiggles back and forth. I have a couple 265/6s ( not installed ) and the input shafts have what I think is a considerable amount of play. Like 1-1.5 mm of wiggle.
I believe the input shaft bearing for the dogleg is easily available and not crazy expensive like the OD trans.
Both my 77 and 79 have hex head bolts . I think I read somewhere after a couple of years of e28 production they switched to Torxs. Not sure
When you get the tranny out I'd be interested to hear how much the input shaft wiggles back and forth. I have a couple 265/6s ( not installed ) and the input shafts have what I think is a considerable amount of play. Like 1-1.5 mm of wiggle.
I believe the input shaft bearing for the dogleg is easily available and not crazy expensive like the OD trans.
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
Removal is complete as of this evening! Doing this as a one man job and was having issues getting the 19mm's off the bellhousing of the G265. Well I bought an S wrench from Harbor Freight and was able to file down the edges and get it on the driver's side upper. That was the one I was most worried about anyway.
The work space:
Once that was loose, I was having difficulty getting the passenger side upper nut loose. I ended up using my air tools and my 6 point impact driver to finally get it loose.
After some wrestling, I got it out!
Sliding it off the engine:
The access from underneath once the trans is out of the way
I imagine it won't be as fun to put it back in... it was still really tight to get at the bolts with the bulk of the transmission out of the way!
And here she be. Going to clean it up and start ordering some parts
Dave, the shaft seems to wiggle 1-2mm and comparing to my a 260/5 I have sitting there, they wiggle about the same amount.
The throwout bearing is definitely the problem-- noisy and crusty spinning it by hand. Not sure how it failed, but it happened suddenly as far as I know.
What other parts should I replace while I''m in there? I need a trans mount as well as a new guibo for sure.
The work space:
Once that was loose, I was having difficulty getting the passenger side upper nut loose. I ended up using my air tools and my 6 point impact driver to finally get it loose.
After some wrestling, I got it out!
Sliding it off the engine:
The access from underneath once the trans is out of the way
I imagine it won't be as fun to put it back in... it was still really tight to get at the bolts with the bulk of the transmission out of the way!
And here she be. Going to clean it up and start ordering some parts
Dave, the shaft seems to wiggle 1-2mm and comparing to my a 260/5 I have sitting there, they wiggle about the same amount.
The throwout bearing is definitely the problem-- noisy and crusty spinning it by hand. Not sure how it failed, but it happened suddenly as far as I know.
What other parts should I replace while I''m in there? I need a trans mount as well as a new guibo for sure.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
-
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Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
I have an extra oil shaft seal, but yours may not be leaking because mine wasn't leaking. I also replaced the guibo on mine. It was in decent shape but had a few cracks so I replaced it since I had the part handy.
- randall977
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Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
So much easier to remove than a one piece box though and not too heavy if you're ready for it. The output has about that much wiggle on both of my boxes - I would think this is normal as the output shaft is not part of the main shaft.
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
I cleaned the gearbox and got it back together in the last week or so, wrapping up last night.
It took me a couple hours to get the trans into place and then a couple more hours to button it up before spending time wrestling with the full length exhaust.
Unfortunately my rear section of the exhaust was loose, so I have to see if I can get it welded back into place maybe. i really liked the sound of it and it came apart because of the on and off I have to do for the repair job.
I also decided to mount my Rial mesh wheels (refinished) since I had tires and hadn't driven the car all year. I think they fit it really well!
16x8 et11 with 225/5016 riken 'Raptor' tires. They seem pretty grippy for the closeout price I got.
I need to double check distributor timing but overall I want to drive it more in 2018!!
It took me a couple hours to get the trans into place and then a couple more hours to button it up before spending time wrestling with the full length exhaust.
Unfortunately my rear section of the exhaust was loose, so I have to see if I can get it welded back into place maybe. i really liked the sound of it and it came apart because of the on and off I have to do for the repair job.
I also decided to mount my Rial mesh wheels (refinished) since I had tires and hadn't driven the car all year. I think they fit it really well!
16x8 et11 with 225/5016 riken 'Raptor' tires. They seem pretty grippy for the closeout price I got.
I need to double check distributor timing but overall I want to drive it more in 2018!!
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
Haven't been able to drive the car much, we found the exhaust had really thin metal near where it broke from the pipes. Without the muffler there is no bottom end torque and everything is just noisy!
I brought it to a welder friend and he added a plate to the rear of the muffler to be able to weld to since I wanted to salvage this system. Last night I went to his place again and we got it on, tacked up and partly welded, but now need to wrap it up. He was having trouble accessing the top so when I meet him again to finish it up, we will drop the full system down so he can penetrate all the way aound.
I still want to drive this car more this year!! But at least the TO bearing is good and otherwise the car is working
With the misfortune of my 633CSi, I have been thinking of using it as a metal donor for my 635. It will be a big project to do the rust repair, but I think would ultimately be a good idea to keep this car going. The biggest concern is the amount of work to get to the rust in the fender wells. Maybe a few years out but I have the donor vehicle to fix itproperly...
I brought it to a welder friend and he added a plate to the rear of the muffler to be able to weld to since I wanted to salvage this system. Last night I went to his place again and we got it on, tacked up and partly welded, but now need to wrap it up. He was having trouble accessing the top so when I meet him again to finish it up, we will drop the full system down so he can penetrate all the way aound.
I still want to drive this car more this year!! But at least the TO bearing is good and otherwise the car is working
With the misfortune of my 633CSi, I have been thinking of using it as a metal donor for my 635. It will be a big project to do the rust repair, but I think would ultimately be a good idea to keep this car going. The biggest concern is the amount of work to get to the rust in the fender wells. Maybe a few years out but I have the donor vehicle to fix itproperly...
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
Got the plate fully welded up, although he had a hard time with it. Now I can drive it around and it has the low end torque back! I really liked this muffle and didn't want to replace it if possible! Not the prettiest, but all sealed up and good to last another 20+ years.
Seemed to have some jerkiness so I need to reset the base distributor timing once again and rule that out as being the cause of the jerkiness. I suspect I have it a bit off.
Noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXcg8PBh6Y4
I drove the car up to a social meet up north of where I live. Felt great to drive the car again, although the black on black is sure hot inside during the summer!! Great that my throw out bearing repair is complete too :)
Seemed to have some jerkiness so I need to reset the base distributor timing once again and rule that out as being the cause of the jerkiness. I suspect I have it a bit off.
Noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXcg8PBh6Y4
I drove the car up to a social meet up north of where I live. Felt great to drive the car again, although the black on black is sure hot inside during the summer!! Great that my throw out bearing repair is complete too :)
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
- hornhospital
- Platinum Member
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Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
You guys are having an even hotter than normal summer, aren't you? The joys of having a black car.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
Quite warm, but I have been driving my 535is turbo and took it to D4C 2018.
In the mean time I drove out to an E30 meet and got lots of comments about the wheels and just having a euro E24 in general. Glad to get some attention Didn't get as many second looks 8 years ago when I bought the car. Maybe I need to upload a couple pictures of how I bought it just for fun.
In the mean time I drove out to an E30 meet and got lots of comments about the wheels and just having a euro E24 in general. Glad to get some attention Didn't get as many second looks 8 years ago when I bought the car. Maybe I need to upload a couple pictures of how I bought it just for fun.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
Took the car out to another track day. My turbo car was having issues again
Overall it did well .These tires were newer Riken Raptors-- and the wheels are the Rial mesh that I have mounted and will pretty much remain on the car. I had the timing adjust on me in the middle of the session as my nut wasn't fully tightened on the distributor. Once I got that fixed, it was running pretty good until one of the later sessions where it cut out on me. After some research and discussion on first fives, I suspect it is the coil getting overheated or the ballast resistor (never heard of it before) failing on me.
My brothers 318is again with lighter flywheel than the last event
My friends first time
318is following me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSDz0ZRB_cU
in car footage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q12EgQKGItQ
Overall it did well .These tires were newer Riken Raptors-- and the wheels are the Rial mesh that I have mounted and will pretty much remain on the car. I had the timing adjust on me in the middle of the session as my nut wasn't fully tightened on the distributor. Once I got that fixed, it was running pretty good until one of the later sessions where it cut out on me. After some research and discussion on first fives, I suspect it is the coil getting overheated or the ballast resistor (never heard of it before) failing on me.
Also from firstfives:The built-in resistor wire is buried inside the harness to the coil, you would need to cut back the insulation to find it.
.85 ohms would be fine
If I remember correctly, the voltage at your coil's (+) terminal should be around 11.5 volts or so with the engine running. If it is higher than this then your ballast resistor is missing and you will need the external ballast.
The ballast resistor is bypassed by the starter solenoid when you are cranking the engine so don't bother trying to check the voltage while the starter is engaged.
Will have to investigate, but I was able to drive it home. Here's some footage from last weekend.However there is a control unit for the ignition which has been know to fail. I've put a couple of hundred thousand on them without a failure, but there are stories. On E12s and I think E24s it's mounted down by the washer bottle, a ~3" X 3" X 1.5" aluminum box. Availability seems to go up and down but I've got one or two I could be persuaded to part with if you do need one.
My brothers 318is again with lighter flywheel than the last event
My friends first time
318is following me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSDz0ZRB_cU
in car footage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q12EgQKGItQ
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
Mate, the car looks really cool, the set-up looks tough-as! I'm not surprised it's a head turner.tschultz wrote: ↑Mon Sep 24, 2018 5:24 pm
In the mean time I drove out to an E30 meet and got lots of comments about the wheels and just having a euro E24 in general. Glad to get some attention Didn't get as many second looks 8 years ago when I bought the car. Maybe I need to upload a couple pictures of how I bought it just for fun.
Thanks for the videos, it's great watching & hearing your car hammer it around with that 318 chasing you.
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
Thanks. I'll have to try the microphone inside the car next time. I couldn't make it this past week because of a strange issue.
The most recent strange behavior is that when I start the car the last couple of times, the oil filter cannister blows out the oring seal and leaks oil rather than pumping it through the system. Strange problem, so I haven't had it running long enough to try and diagnose the spark issue I had. It has started each time I have tried, but doesn't want to idle due to the leaking oil...
Thoughts
The most recent strange behavior is that when I start the car the last couple of times, the oil filter cannister blows out the oring seal and leaks oil rather than pumping it through the system. Strange problem, so I haven't had it running long enough to try and diagnose the spark issue I had. It has started each time I have tried, but doesn't want to idle due to the leaking oil...
Thoughts
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
I think you're running the oil cooler Ted ? Check the pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing.
1986 635csi LOCUTUS / Arktis Blau Metallic / Pearl Beige / S38B36/ Close ratio dogleg 5sp
2002 E46 M3 / Topaz Blau Metallic / Black Nappa / 6 speed SMG software tuned / Bilstein PSS10 Coilovers / CMP RACP reinforcement
2002 E46 M3 / Topaz Blau Metallic / Black Nappa / 6 speed SMG software tuned / Bilstein PSS10 Coilovers / CMP RACP reinforcement
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
I do have the cooler. Since it is early housing, it is tough to see underneath. How do I check the valve? Can't seem to find any documentation on it...
I did find this:
years ago, m30 oil pumps had a propensity to stick the relief valve spitting out the oil canister seal causing a loss of oil. We had a 83 533 that had that happen and the then Mrs drove for about 30 minutes with minimal oil pressure and by the time she got to work had about 25 drops of oil in the bottom end.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
The valve on the housing is simply a spring/piston type arrangement. I believe it can be removed by taking out the massive allen headed plug. When I was looking into this for my S38B36, I found several good basic descriptions online. Here's one;
https://www.pgfilters.com/blog/can-happ ... lve-fails/
The engine oil pump also has a pressure relief valve. Good description here in Brickwhite's thread;
http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 50#p217993
https://www.pgfilters.com/blog/can-happ ... lve-fails/
The engine oil pump also has a pressure relief valve. Good description here in Brickwhite's thread;
http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 50#p217993
1986 635csi LOCUTUS / Arktis Blau Metallic / Pearl Beige / S38B36/ Close ratio dogleg 5sp
2002 E46 M3 / Topaz Blau Metallic / Black Nappa / 6 speed SMG software tuned / Bilstein PSS10 Coilovers / CMP RACP reinforcement
2002 E46 M3 / Topaz Blau Metallic / Black Nappa / 6 speed SMG software tuned / Bilstein PSS10 Coilovers / CMP RACP reinforcement
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
With warmer temps, everything seems to be normal as far as oiling is concerned.
However, the main item I wanted to test was the ICU overheated or something to do with overheating of the distributor as described to me by guru Dave Stackhouse. I had the car idling and got it warmed up before shutting it off for a few minutes.
I restarted the car and then started revving it. Suddenly the car died and would not restart. Not sure how to proceed with diagnosing this besides getting a new ICU and swapping it out...
However, the main item I wanted to test was the ICU overheated or something to do with overheating of the distributor as described to me by guru Dave Stackhouse. I had the car idling and got it warmed up before shutting it off for a few minutes.
I restarted the car and then started revving it. Suddenly the car died and would not restart. Not sure how to proceed with diagnosing this besides getting a new ICU and swapping it out...
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
Re: 1980 635CSi Euro
I got a new ICU and it seems to be working properly. Need to drive it more to tell for sure, but I'm hoping that was the cause of my stalling issue last fall.
I also believe that the oil weight was too thick for the cold weather, causing the oil blowout. Just something to keep in mind when I try to drive it in the cold.
EDIT: Spoke to soon. Had stalling problem. Need to verify operation of combo relay and then confirm proper operation and pressure of fuel pump.
I also believe that the oil weight was too thick for the cold weather, causing the oil blowout. Just something to keep in mind when I try to drive it in the cold.
EDIT: Spoke to soon. Had stalling problem. Need to verify operation of combo relay and then confirm proper operation and pressure of fuel pump.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A