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My window won't seat!

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msuffern

My window won't seat!

Post by msuffern » Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:25 pm

My passenger side window meets the weatherstripping at too upright of an angle, meaning that rarely pops into the groove of its own accord. Most of time I either have to:

1. Put gentle pressure on the top of the glass as I push the door shut, or
2. Give it a little push to pop it in after the door closes, or
3. Lower and then raise the window once I'm in the car to reseat the glass.

I think another degree or so of angle on the glass would solve the problem. Does anyone know how to adjust the angle? Or perhaps that's not my problem at all? Any insight/theories/advice appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt

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Hefeweizen
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Post by Hefeweizen » Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:57 pm

A lot of times the answers are already here.

http://www.normgrills.net/bcg/Body_Inte ... or24982937

It is a very well written and easy to follow piece. I am still in the process of adjusting until I will have it right. The most important part is that the doors are aligned the way they should be. I thought I had the doors right but after messing with the windows for some time now, I arrived at the conclusion that the doors must be re-aligned.
Rainer
03 330Xi (DD)
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80 633CSi (Red Euro, Project)

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Chris Wright
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Re: My window won't seat!

Post by Chris Wright » Wed Oct 07, 2009 3:04 pm

Deleted: See my post below
Last edited by Chris Wright on Tue May 31, 2011 7:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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msuffern

Post by msuffern » Wed Oct 07, 2009 3:10 pm

Thanks for the tips and the link. I knew I had seen the adjustment procedure somewhere...

Interesting about not going up into the groove. I'll have to check my driver side window, since it closes perfectly (and I do mean perfectly--with a solid thunk and the *ching* of the door latch). I'll use it as a reference for the other side.

Thanks again!

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Hefeweizen
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Post by Hefeweizen » Wed Oct 07, 2009 4:35 pm

Here is info on the door (just in case)
viewtopic.php?t=5581&highlight=door

Yes, I was there where you are right now getting all ticked off because that stupid thing is not going into the groove. From the way it looks, you have the doors alright but the window is not quiet there. Easiest way is to have someone out there who could either tell you when you are there or hold a mirror so you can see for yourself. That way you don't have to climb in and out of the car all the time. Once you have the window the right height all you have to do is move the plate up or down to meet the stopper.
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Figure.jpg
Figure.jpg (48.45 KiB) Viewed 6280 times
Rainer
03 330Xi (DD)
85 635CSi (RIP 3 May 19)
80 633CSi (Red Euro, Project)

"If you think a good European mechanic is expensive, try a bad one!"

german performance inc

Post by german performance inc » Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:06 pm

i fought with mine one day till i was sick of it ,mine had a lot of wind noise when i adjusted it to close easily ,i did fight with different combinations ,i left the passenger door open and kept going around and looking until i was dizzy,i finally settled for closing it with my hand on the upper glass every time,it seals good and no air leaks but i know thats not right ,but it hasnt been a problem except for finger prints on the glass :roll:

msuffern

Post by msuffern » Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:11 pm

I took a look at the driver side window today over lunch and it does indeed close nice and tight--perhaps TOO tightly. The window definitely seems to seat up in the weatherstripping groove, but in order to make it there it seems like it strikes the rubber ridge every time I close the door. There?s evidence of strain on the rubber from where the top of the window passes by the ridge. So I may try to lower that window a tad, just like the other. We?ll see what that does for my sealing and wind noise.

Drew

Post by Drew » Thu Oct 08, 2009 8:39 am

took me about 4 years to get happy with my driver's door seal. I don't want to tempt fate but I think I'm there as of a couple of weeks ago. There's a very fine line between a good door shut and wind noise at speed

the BCG article is very good and I used it as a starting point, first point is to make sure you're happy with the door shut lines before you start on the glass. Shut the door a few times with the window open to ensure there are no issues with the striker and door lock mech also. Once you're sure that you're happy with the door, move on to the glass.

angle of attack of the glass to the rubber can be altered, as can rotational angle of the glass, as can stop height. I found these adjustments to be the most useful. Also slight adjustments can be made to the mech position (fore or aft) by moving the runners.

From what you say, it might be a quick adjust of the stop height is all you need. Adjust the stop height to the max height which still allows the glass to slip under the rubber lip every time. Then go for a blast and check wind noise is acceptable at m-way speeds

enjoy it, as you'll probably be back!!

I left my door handle off for about a year whilst I tweaked and tweaked

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Post by GWL » Thu Oct 08, 2009 1:59 pm

I too gave up on my 80 Euro driver's side. I use the old pressure on top of the glass to close and seal the door when I get out and use the the window down a little as I close the door from inside. Then raise the window after getting settled in the driver.s seat. Not elegant, but it has worked for 25 years. :D
George
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80 635 CSi Euro owned for 29 years
77 320i My first BMW in 1977 Sold for 80 Euro

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Chris Wright
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Post by Chris Wright » Thu Oct 08, 2009 4:30 pm

msuffern wrote:I took a look at the driver side window today over lunch and it does indeed close nice and tight--perhaps TOO tightly. The window definitely seems to seat up in the weatherstripping groove, but in order to make it there it seems like it strikes the rubber ridge every time I close the door. There?s evidence of strain on the rubber from where the top of the window passes by the ridge. So I may try to lower that window a tad, just like the other. We?ll see what that does for my sealing and wind noise.
Ignore my mindless ramblings above, I was guilty of making incorrect assumptions! :oops:

I just checked my windows which, since I'm the 2nd owner, I don't think they have been messed with and the door easily closes with a "thunk" like a bank vault and is nice and quiet.

But I have to retract what I said about the glass not being in the groove. I knew that my glass did not hit the outer ridge of seal along it's upper length and then have to be pushed past it to enter the groove, so I assumed (and you know what they say about assumptions :roll: ) that the glass was not in the grove. but when I looked, I was wrong! How could it have gotten in there? :?

Well, the lower front of the glass just barely nips the rubber ridge and because if the way the door swings in, the glass seems to enter the groove along the front edge and around the upper front corner but then the glass seems to be canted slightly to the rear, as it is only contacting the rubber along a short section at the front top edge of the glass with the door only cracked open 1/4" to 1/2" (See 1st Photo). As the door closes the last little bit, this small point of contact sweeps rearward as the glass enters the groove (See 2nd Photo).
_________________

I just had a wild thought, my digital camera has a cord that lets me plug it into a TV to use as a monitor. Using external power for the camera, a TV and a tripod, you could zoom in in the area you were trying to adjust and watch on the TV through the glass as you adjust it?
Attachments
Door Glass Closed.jpg
The door closed with the glass in the groove.

As the door closes the last little bit, this small point of contact sweeps rearward as the glass enters the groove.
Door Glass Closed.jpg (24.94 KiB) Viewed 6198 times
Door Glass open.jpg
Door cracked open 1/4" to 1/2"

You can just make out that the glass is in the groove along the front edge and around the upper front corner but then is seems to be canted slightly, as the glass is only contacting the rubber along a short sectio
Door Glass open.jpg (27.87 KiB) Viewed 6198 times
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