In order to do the swap, my friend will need a bit of additional space in his driveway. So on Sunday, I rode down to his house and drove one of his cars back to my place to be parked on the side of the house.
Also, i realized I didn't post the after photos of the engine bay. It is still super greasy, but much cleaner than before. Shame to get it all cleaned up and not enjoy it, but the new engine will make it all worthwhile. The B32 is leaking oil from the front seal anytime it is driven long enough to completely heat up the oil.
Yesterday I installed the Euro turn signals and trimmed the reflectors so that I could finally remove the 'elephant ear' '83-'87 turn signal lenses.
I tried to identify the issue with the low beam headlights and I believe it is caused by the "Low Beam Check Relay" inside the fusebox board. If I understand this does not usually go out, but it is the only thing that explains why fuses and relays are good, wiring is good, and the low beams only work when the turn signal stalk is moved to the high beam position. Either way, this should be an issue that is found on 533i's, and it seems like in all my searching nobody has a proper fix. People jumper past the relay and complete the circuit from underneath. I will have to think about how I want to do this.
Additionally, I got the AEM UEGO Wideband in the mail, so I installed it. I didn't want to mess with a gaugepod yet, so it is in a temporary position until I can finalize all of the wiring.
And a couple photos of the interior as well. It is liveable now, although there is still more cleaning to do yet!
So today, I got off work early today and did a few things on the car, in preparation for removing the engine tomorrow and Friday. I got an oil drain fitting and had the oil pan tapped for it. The engine in the car has the block tapped, but I figured adding some additional height for the drain to feed by gravity would be a good idea. Plus I had the spare pan and was able to clean it up, it seemed like a no-brainer to do it this way and not risk the metal shavings. 1/2" NPT (m) x -10AN. New Parker hi temp hose will be used also. The -10AN means the passageway is 1/2" in diameter, all in efforts to eliminate as much backpressure to the turbo (oil feed/return) as possible.
I also pulled the trigger on some Style 42 wheels. I have seen some photos of these wheels and on an E24, they look killer! They are nice enough that even just putting them next to the car makes the crappy paint look that much better.
Tomorrow We will be tearing into it and I have all new steering components like idler arm, center link, and tie rod ends so that I can replace these while there is clearance with the turbo dismounted. So here's a few photos of the car currently. From 10 feet, the paint looks decent and I think will be good enough to become a track vehicle. The spoiler is off so that I don't have to mess with it and store it when we are actually doing the swap.
Euro headlights.
So driving the car right now is a little interesting because the 260/5 only has gears 1,2, and 5. That coupled with the exhaust leak means that it is a little noisy, and you have to rev it up quite a bit to get up to speed to use 5th gear. It feels like the turbo never really spools in 1st gear because of this leak. Also, this means I don't know how accurate the wideband reading is at the moment. But with that said, the vacuum/boost gauge will sit at 5psi when accelerating in 2nd gear. Even with the leaks, it feels like it is pulling as fast as the M5 in second gear(at altitude). The good news is that the microfueler is keeping the AFR's at about 12.5-13 when on the gas. When off the gas however, and maybe it is because of the exhaust leak, I am getting 17 readings on the AFR. Getting the exhaust leak fixed will be the first priority with the new engine, and dialing in the microfueler to keep a steady AFR will be next.
I want to add a turbo bypass valve, as the car currently doesn't have one. I want to add it so that the new engine won't be subject to any sort of surge. Now at 5psi or less in the intake manifold, I don't know if that's possible, but it is one of the first items I will address. Not sure if this means the turbo will need to be refreshed, but I know it can't be good. I'd like to position it as close to the throttle as possible, so in my head, I was thinking at the ICV. Maybe I can remove this and the car will still idle when cold? It will have the larger injectors so I'll try it at least.
So i certainly have a lot of work ahead of me, but I am hoping to make major progress with the engine swap in the next 2 days as I am taking off work to get it done.
So I worked all day today to get the new engine ready to go and although I don't have photos today. We got the oil pan in place, new starter, old transmission off, old clutch off. New flywheel will go on tomorrow, along with the G265 that we assembled and the oil filter housing/turbo feed will be swapped.
The Old ECU, wiring and everything in the engine is ready for a pull tomorrow. There were many things messed up about the engine and car, but I am very glad to be changing so much of it. The coolant was nasty brown, the radiator will need to be flushed because of this. The exhaust was held in place by wire and chain, there was a spark plug and socket in the fender wheel, along with a bunch more trash and crap in the nooks and crannies, and to top it all off, the exhaust was pieced together so that that block of wood (in post 1) was holding the wastegate together to the exhaust and downpipe. We were sitting there scratching our heads on how to remove the system from the car when we decided to start taking off the exhaust and driveshaft from underneath. When we got the rats next of wires and such removed and the mounts, I realized the exhaust felt a bit free.This was after we had removed the wooden block for jack support, and all the sudden the exhaust bits fell apart!
Curious to hear about your other exhaust suggestions. I'll provide a few photos when I load them up, but for now you all will have to wait.
continuing the updates.
The donor engine had to have a few changes since it was already out of the car.
B35 smaller starter. Re-manufactured Bosch unit.
Starter in place, light weight flywheel in place (my friend had a spare and he was going to take mine when it came out). Oil pan off, for installation of tapped one. Cleaning of the mating surfaces.
Oil pump bolts all nice and tight.
New oil pan awaiting installation
Oil pan installed.
While it is accessible, we replaced this fuel line, I believe this is the cold start injector. PITA out of the car, how do you do it in the car??
Moved the car inside to start the teardown.
I think the front main seal was the culprit of this greasy mess. The other interesting part was that the coolant was a nasty brown color, and the radiator was coated with the same sludge as well.
Radiator out, harness coming off the fusebox (C101 connector I believe).
Removing the exhaust was the next step to get the driveshaft off and transmission crossmember removed. The down pipe could not be unbolted in the car, so we were looking to see how the exhaust was fixed. Unfortunately, it was looking like the we were going to have to cut the down pipe to allow clearance for the motor pull since it couldn't be unbolted.
Well, remember that block of wood jammed in between the firewall from this picture?
We decided to remove it to see what sort of clearance we had to work with.
That's when the rear section of the exhaust decided that it was now free to separate:
That's when the wastegate downpipe flange became available.
This was a sigh of relief for both of us- we were laughing at the hillbilly engineering. Of course this block of wood wasn't a Callaway special part.
Full exhaust down after cutting and removing the chian and bailing wire that was holding it all in place
ECU and such removed. Besides the transmission and removing the AC unit, it was a good stopping point for the night.
The next day we continued and started on pulling the engine.
It was quite greasy so I didn't get a ton of photos, but we managed . After a good bit of finesse we were able to get it up and out! Unfortunately I will have to replace the heater core as some point as we didn't take off one of the hose clamps.
Turbo off:
Rolled the car out to have some more space to work:
Here's the turbo, flange and downpipe orientation. I am going to have this remade. Somebody tried a 'fix' at some point and failed miserably. The weld bits got everywhere and did not seal at all. Maybe at one point it was held in place, but it had obviously cracked by this point in time.
Wastegate gasket also blown. This is the correct/original rotomaster wastegate.
I plan to have the unit retapped so the mounting screws go in all the way nicely. Notice the failed turbo gasket. I believe this is a T3 turbo gasket that I should be able to get at the local turbo store? I'll find out this week.
This gasket has the rotomaster part number on it too.
The turbo seems to not have any side to side shaft play, and spins smoothly. I may have been lucky. As the other kit sold here, it has the Rotomaster T04B53 turbo.
Here's the Callaway manifold. I don't believe you can mount the turbo with the engine in place, and I also don't think you can remove the manifold while it is in the car (It's a PITA out of the car).
With what I have found online, this turbo is comparable to the T04B H trim (possibly S), but seems to be sized quite well for my application at altitude. Pr=1.413 at 5psi and Pr=1.826 at 10psi. Lb/min~ 30.56 and 39.1, respectively.
Here we are putting on the M5 Clutch kit.
I didn't get photos of the oil canister switch. The tapped unit went on the new motor and we switched the rear coolant line connector for the heater core.
Here's some of the hillbilly mechanic work we encountered. Needless to say, I replaced the sway bar end links asap.
Brake bomb replacement since we now have access to it:
Here's how the engine sits ready to go besides the manifold, turbo, down pipe and an ICV. Going with the Bosch E30 T type for an elegant solution. Oil drain hose length to be sized properly once the manifold and turbo is reinstalled.
