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1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

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Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Tue Nov 20, 2018 2:01 am

Greetings from Florida!!

For starters I will say that I was never good at virtually documenting my builds and progress. I ask for your patience as my 8-month new (to me) purchase has inspired me to be engaged with my fellow shark tamers!

The vessel of the matter is an Arctic Blau 1981 633 CSI. I wont bore you guys with the details of how I came across it and I will just get into the details of the refresh and repairs that this beast will undergo. The vessel is rather rusty and I completely understand that most people would junk the car or part it out. I saw potential in the chassis despite the rust and I began fixing some of the rust already.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syjZoFvVozjCrx_RU
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syi2-cqpKdOpHHpmE

Besides the rust the chassis needed a major suspension and brake refresh. The rear brake lines were clogged (probably with rust), the front dampeners were leaking fluid, the ball joints/tie rods were old and cracking, the bushings in the front control arms were toast, the rear subframe bushings with the RTABS were deceased, and much more to add.

My first task to tackle was the rear brakes. I changed out the brake lines with braided Condor Speed Shop brake lines, which made a tremendous difference. I also replaced the old fluid with DOT 4 brake fluid. After doing that, I still was not quite satisfied with the braking still. So, I decided to swap the rear calipers out with the E32 calipers and rotors.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syjh6V4y8650BZrvv
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syj1ekbtRgIS1yOAO
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syj9i2oCJXhoswQxY
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syjcqlo0FOddJQfpG
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_sykJ2ZNd6k32eDNJH

As we all know E12 based suspension components do not support the e32 rear calipers and rotors. I decided to do the subframe update along with new RTABs, subframe bushings, and updated diff. This was to just satisfy the rear, for the front I decided to get new lower control arms with new bushings and ball joints, and I also found a set of used Bilstiens and H&R lowering springs from an E28. Again as most of you know, the E28 based cars never matched the E12 so I had to do some minor adjustments to make the front strut tube inserts work.

1.)I had to cut and lengthen the E12/E24 strut tubes in order for the bilsteins to thread in.
2.)The front top hat strut mounts needed a new bearing in order to fit the smaller diameter shaft size of the the E28 bilsteins, and so I went through boca bearings to get a proper sized bearing and pressed it in. (FOR REFERENCE: E28 top hat mount bolt pattern does not match the E12 based chassis)

Seperate from the suspension work that I have done so far. I have also did minor motor work such as replacing the intake boot that goes to the AFM. Which was causing a rather annoying idle surge. I also was having minor overheating problems with the motor too. So I replaced the water pump and upgraded to an electric fan and a small diameter water pump pulley. I will probably say that the smaller water pump pulley was probably the coolest modification I have done on this car to date haha.

The linked photos below are a mix of my old 1984 Alpine White E30 and my '99 mazda miata. As well as other photos of my E24.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_sykfo1HGZY1ajktY4
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_sykGcLjbn90yBBoSb
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_sykU5ha-vCXKms9UY
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syidYon8RDgzpxfiN
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syiQzPQOsMzTfctKb
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syiXzCWGsd154D0Qr
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syivTY572Bdn-BSca
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syi--P1_1PO0maqJZ
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_syjAH3U1TQQfIsWVY
'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Tue Dec 11, 2018 7:26 pm

For those of you who are interested in the mod done to the front strut housings for the late model bilsteins heres a picture.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_szF86aRAkOal-0CrS

After fighting the drive shaft for about 2 hours I finally got rear subframe in and torqued down. I love the rear brake fitment of the e32 calipers. I have not driven it yet either but I love how different the bilsteins and the H&R springs feel. The rear is so much stiffer now, and the ride height is perfect!
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_szGU4PwPARBDEKztH
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_szGSrtewvUsqd7QDp
While I was getting ready for the maiden voyage by bleeding the new brakes. I ended up bursting the rusty brake line that goes from the master cylinder to the brass T-fitting ](*,)
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AncWeV69IP_szGHG3rMPIu_3jtsS

So now I am about to order a line from FCP Euro and then hopefully my maiden voyage can resume with the new suspension and bushings.
I pray I get it on the road solidly by the time Daytona 24hrs comes around.
'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

GRNSHRK
E12 Based Guru
Posts: 2743
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 3:24 pm
Location: Sunnyvale (SF Bay Area) CA

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by GRNSHRK » Tue Dec 11, 2018 8:50 pm

Well, that's quite some ambitious work you've taken on there =D>

Looks like you'll be dealing with some rust issues as well :cry:

Depending on the file size of your photos, you should try to show them instead of just the links, bit of a PITA :-k

Welcome and keep us posted, ready to hear about your maiden voyage \:D/
:mrgreen:
Bobbo
1980 633 CSi
Cypress Green/Pearl Beige
2011 F10 528i
2005 E46 330 Ci ZHP Cabrio
Image

You can never have too many BMW's

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Sun Dec 16, 2018 3:07 am

Since my brake line decided to give out. I was able to drop the subframe a tad so that I have about an fist worth of space to unscrew the line from the chassis and disconnect the line from the brass T #-o

I was able to order a 10 foot straight brake line from fcp euro, and a new brass T fitting from ECS tuning. Since I have been having issues with my brake system I decided to continue the brake refresh by buying new Hawk pads for the front calipers, braided SS lines for the front calipers, and new vented front rotors. In the midst of all this I will be stripping the calipers of the aweful red spray paint that someone took upon themselves to do.

I worked a deal out at my local hydraulic shop to have them bend the 10 foot brake line. I have a bender and I would do it myself but I dont want that sort of headache especially since I am not a professional bender.
Attachments
rainy day.jpg
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line.jpg
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20160105_183931794_iOS.jpg
My old E30 and Old Miata
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25.jpg
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'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Sun Dec 16, 2018 3:10 am

GRNSHRK wrote:
Tue Dec 11, 2018 8:50 pm
Well, that's quite some ambitious work you've taken on there =D>

Looks like you'll be dealing with some rust issues as well :cry:

Depending on the file size of your photos, you should try to show them instead of just the links, bit of a PITA :-k

Welcome and keep us posted, ready to hear about your maiden voyage \:D/
Thanks GRNSHRK! I appreciate the kind words.

Yes, unfortunately it is a rather rusty chassis, but I have every intention of repairing it all. I tried to do that with my old E30 but the rust was so bad even in all the structural areas that I couldnt deal with that anymore.

I plan to eventually take it to the track for light track days.

Also thanks for the tip about uploading he pictures rather then photo links!
'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Sun Jan 13, 2019 3:54 pm

Finally!!!!

I was able to drive the car after replacing the trunk line for the rear brakes and brass fitting. I ended up using Easy-Bend brake line as the replacement. Rest assure, FCP EURO did give me a great deal on a replacement 10ft brake line, but it would of been more tragic to bend that into place. I also replaced the front brake lines with braided SS and put in EBC brake pads 8)

I have to say all of this work was completely worth it. The brakes have never felt so amazing on this car since I have had it. Suspension wise, the car feels 1000x better, as expected since the old struts were blown.

Considering how I put in a 2.93 diff in I will say that it takes an incredible amount of time to get up to speed, as I expected. I will be swapping that out with a 3.25 LSD in the future. Also, my slim electric mishimoto fan seemed to do extremely well controlling the temps at the long red lights. I will be testing that out more thoroughly in the day time, but as of now I am please with how the car is.

Now I am a tiny bit closer to taking it to the track \:D/
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20181218_000911974_iOS.jpg
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'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Sat Feb 23, 2019 10:54 pm

Finally got to drive the car for a good amount of time today. Handled wonderfully.

The brakes and new suspension components really made the car feel solid. \:D/ Image
side view.jpg
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However I did notice that my temperature gauge was rising more then what it normally did so I stopped and used my heat gun only to find out that the temp was about 197F. Can anyone confirm if this is truely bad for my 81' b32??

Also where would be the most accurate spot to check the temperature with a heat gun? I know this is kind of a vague question but I really want to test my water temp sensors to see how accurate they are. When I first drove the car it usually stayed within the first 3 tick marks.
'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

Shipper 01
Bigcoupe supporter
Posts: 781
Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:26 am
Location: Sydney Australia

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Shipper 01 » Mon Feb 25, 2019 6:34 am

197F is around 92c, so it is getting up there although my race m30b35 gets hotter and my wife's X5 runs on the highway at 95c plus on really hot days.

I've put the heat gun on my extractors (of the race car) and had 450c so it can get hot.

Check your radiator and water pump. Otherwise, when not at speed but idling, does hit heat up way too much?

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Tue Feb 26, 2019 1:13 am

Shipper 01 wrote:
Mon Feb 25, 2019 6:34 am
197F is around 92c, so it is getting up there although my race m30b35 gets hotter and my wife's X5 runs on the highway at 95c plus on really hot days.

I've put the heat gun on my extractors (of the race car) and had 450c so it can get hot.

Check your radiator and water pump. Otherwise, when not at speed but idling, does hit heat up way too much?
Interesting. Thanks for the info! I did replace the water pump about 3 months ago with new T-stat. It is only at idle is when it heats up too much. While driving the temperature reduces significantly. Might be the Head gasket?

Also I just found out that the temperature sensor on the radiator broke at the electrical connector. Maybe this has something to do with it too?
'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

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hornhospital
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Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by hornhospital » Tue Feb 26, 2019 2:30 am

Running hot at idle/traffic light stop/stop-and-go traffic is a sign the fan clutch is failing.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'87 325is "Odette"; '93 325is "Elvira"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"; '95 318is "Bebe"

Shipper 01
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Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Shipper 01 » Wed Feb 27, 2019 1:33 am

Agree with the above. Could also be a poorly working fan. Without a good strong fan these engines overheat quickly. The E30 fan is better than the fan on an early e12 based 6'er so you can imagine how important it is to get the fan right! My E3 racer scrapped its original fan for an electric fan from an E30 325is. Works brilliantly!

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Thu Feb 28, 2019 2:24 am

Shipper 01 wrote:
Wed Feb 27, 2019 1:33 am
Agree with the above. Could also be a poorly working fan. Without a good strong fan these engines overheat quickly. The E30 fan is better than the fan on an early e12 based 6'er so you can imagine how important it is to get the fan right! My E3 racer scrapped its original fan for an electric fan from an E30 325is. Works brilliantly!
hornhospital wrote:
Tue Feb 26, 2019 2:30 am
Running hot at idle/traffic light stop/stop-and-go traffic is a sign the fan clutch is failing.
Thanks for the input guys!

I ordered a 16" slim electric fan from Mishimoto. I will be installing this weekend and giving it a test run to see how it will fare. I will keep you guys informed 8)
'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Sun Mar 03, 2019 8:35 pm

The 16" fan did the trick. I no longer have any heating issues, and it runs like a champ. 8)

I added some copper hardware to the headers to help with high temperatures from the headers. I plan to get them coated but for now they are solid and sound amazing!

Safe to say that I am ready for the florida summer....I hope
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'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Sun Mar 10, 2019 10:55 pm

Just hit "summer" here in FL this weekend and noticed that I had a small pin hole leak coming from the coolant housing where it met the head. Bought a gasket, sanded my coolant temp copper connectors, and sanded my grounds. My motor now operates almost too well at idle. Temp needle pretty much stays below the second tick mark. It is my understanding that the location just beneath the second mark is normal. 8)

Also had to time to wet sand my coolant cap. Maybe I have a little too much time on my hands.

While doing a test run I noticed a knocking noise coming from the rear end. I really didnt see anything out of the ordinary in the rear. Would anyone have any speculation on what it might be? Seems to happen every time the clutch starts to grab.
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'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Sun Mar 10, 2019 10:57 pm

Here is the coolant cap
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'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

GRNSHRK
E12 Based Guru
Posts: 2743
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 3:24 pm
Location: Sunnyvale (SF Bay Area) CA

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by GRNSHRK » Mon Mar 11, 2019 7:25 pm

Hmm, rear end clunking :-k

Couple of thoughts, based on your comment that you only hear it when the clutch engages the driveline :-?

I would check the condition of the center bearing and universal joints in the driveshaft for play or other issues [-(

I would also inspect the diff mount, known to crack, check out the attached photo from my '80 :-&

And nice polish job on the coolant tank cap #-o
Attachments
6er diff mount crack 2.jpg
6er diff mount crack 2.jpg (457.55 KiB) Viewed 513 times
:mrgreen:
Bobbo
1980 633 CSi
Cypress Green/Pearl Beige
2011 F10 528i
2005 E46 330 Ci ZHP Cabrio
Image

You can never have too many BMW's

Kurtamine_
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2018 8:55 pm
Location: FL

Re: 1981 633 CSI Revival and Refresh

Post by Kurtamine_ » Sat Mar 16, 2019 11:10 pm

GRNSHRK wrote:
Mon Mar 11, 2019 7:25 pm
Hmm, rear end clunking :-k

Couple of thoughts, based on your comment that you only hear it when the clutch engages the driveline :-?

I would check the condition of the center bearing and universal joints in the driveshaft for play or other issues [-(

I would also inspect the diff mount, known to crack, check out the attached photo from my '80 :-&

And nice polish job on the coolant tank cap #-o
Thanks for the input GRNSHRK,

I inspected the rear end the other night and I didnt seem to find anything that was out of place. The only places I did not check was the CSB or the guibo/ drive shaft. I will be taking a look at that tomorrow.

As for the rear diff mount on the frame mine is starting to crack and I noticed that it had this issue before. I planned on fixing that in the near future.
'81 E24
'99 miata
'84 E30
'99 eclipse

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