Guys - So I have my driveshaft out and looking specifically at the Universal Joints (U-Joints) I noticed they were a bit stiff, moving them directionally around. For S and Gs, I decided to add a few drops of penetrating oil (PB Blaster) and worked it in and immediately there was a dramatic improvement in the feel and movement of the joint. The joints have no play in them.
Question: Do you think the U-joints are Ok or need replacement?
My car is an '86 CSi Manual with just under 100k miles.
Quick Question on Drive Shaft U-Joints
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- Slownrusty
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- Ralph in Socal
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Re: Quick Question on Drive Shaft U-Joints
They need to be replaced. There is still a finite life left in them but the lubricant you provided will not last very long. Oil will vaporize quickly once back in use. Unfortunately an expensive job to replace the staked-in u-joints. Good luck
Ralph
Ralph
There is a very fine line between "Hobby" and Mental Illness.
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
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85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
- Slownrusty
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Re: Quick Question on Drive Shaft U-Joints
Thanks Ralph...I have a sinking feeling that I am borrowed time.
Re: Quick Question on Drive Shaft U-Joints
SLOWNRUSTY;
I've had a hard time getting here at times so, here goes I hope; I trust Ralph and I'll add this: if you remove the whole driveshaft, meaning the front too, you might want to replace the Guibo/rubber donut at the front? I asked here quite a while ago & was told if I remember to point the arrows toward the front, the Guibo will last longer. Also, when installing, maybe use new bolts, maybe not? And, install the bolts by alternating the bolt heads from one side of the Guibo to the other every time. Also, tighten the bolts like our wheels by tightening one across from the other. I felt the need to tell this to my mechanic & he said okay after I told him where I got the info from & thanx!
The job has lasted on my Buster for years.
Good Luck,,,,Greg
I've had a hard time getting here at times so, here goes I hope; I trust Ralph and I'll add this: if you remove the whole driveshaft, meaning the front too, you might want to replace the Guibo/rubber donut at the front? I asked here quite a while ago & was told if I remember to point the arrows toward the front, the Guibo will last longer. Also, when installing, maybe use new bolts, maybe not? And, install the bolts by alternating the bolt heads from one side of the Guibo to the other every time. Also, tighten the bolts like our wheels by tightening one across from the other. I felt the need to tell this to my mechanic & he said okay after I told him where I got the info from & thanx!
The job has lasted on my Buster for years.
Good Luck,,,,Greg
Hit the apex
in Long Beach, Cal
Buster/'82Euro6 Build Date 9/81
Rosallina/'80 528i Build Date 4/80
in Long Beach, Cal
Buster/'82Euro6 Build Date 9/81
Rosallina/'80 528i Build Date 4/80
Re: Quick Question on Drive Shaft U-Joints
I haven't needed it yet, but previous posters mentioned Drive Shaft Specialist in San Antonio TX (www.driveshaftspecialist.com) and Beyer Drivelines in Chandler AZ ([email protected])
This IS NOT a recommendation as I haven't used either but perhaps some other Coupers can chime in.
--Ken
This IS NOT a recommendation as I haven't used either but perhaps some other Coupers can chime in.
--Ken
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)