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Lock Configurations & Repair

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Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:30 am
Location: VA (US)

Lock Configurations & Repair

Post by TheDarkSideOfWill » Sun Sep 15, 2019 1:58 am

Dad had a 1985 635CSi (4/01/85 build date; SN: 0606256)
Acquired with driver's door key different than passenger door & trunk key

Bought a (PN: 51 21 9 556 329) repair kit, which is a lock cylinder with tumblers.
RealOEM applications list includes Euro and US market E24 chassis codes ... series=E24

A trucker ran a stop sign at a roundabout and smashed the car. Dad was ok, but the car was totaled. We had neither disassembled the door, nor tried to install the lock cylinder before that event.

He then bought a 1988 635CSi (SN: 3267168) with about 100,000 miles on the clock.

When he bought it, the driver's lock cylinder had already been pulled out of the lock.

We took the door apart, and found pieces of a metal lock mechanism in the bottom of the door.
Per reading on various forums, there are two types of lock mechanisms. The one in this car is the "old" type, with metal parts, despite the fact that this car is an '88.
*HOWEVER*, looking at RealOEM, I can NOT find a SINGLE part number different between the '85 and '88 cars in ANY of the diagrams relevant to the door locks.

We ordered a replacement parts kit (PN: 51 21 9 556 325) from a Euro vendor via eBay.
RealOEM applications list includes only Euro market chassis codes. All available diagrams indicate it should include a lock cylinder. ... series=E24
What we received--we think erroneously--did *NOT* include a new cylinder, but did include ancillary parts that we needed. The ancillary parts are the plastic parts that we've found referenced on forums as the "new" type of lock parts.

We found that the lock cylinder with tumblers kit he had ordered for the '85 car actually had the cylinder that is compatible with the plastic parts from the replacement parts kit.

The remaining problem is that the pushrod that operates the lock (shown as a component of #4 here: ... Id=41_0538 ) is compatible with the ("old"?) metal parts, but is not compatible with the ("new"?) plastic parts, as the pushrod is secured to the metal lock lever with a rivet, and used in double shear. We can drill the rivet out and use it with a #8 or 4mm screw to secure it to the end of the plastic part, but then it will be mounted to the plastic part in single shear. Not good.

We have questions:

-Are the metal/plastic parts really "early production" and "late production" or are they "production" and "service replacement"? (If they're both production configurations, what production date is the break point?)

-Is there a later/replacement lock pushrod that works with the plastic parts? What is the PN for said lock rod? If not, what is the "official" method of adapting the old/production pushrod to work with the plastic lever?

-Do we need the "catch with key, left"?
For $223?

-Does the E23 "catch with key, left" work?
For $65?

Photos of metal parts:



Plastic parts:


Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:30 am
Location: VA (US)

Re: Lock Configurations & Repair

Post by TheDarkSideOfWill » Tue Oct 01, 2019 1:16 pm

No takers? Wow.

Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Aug 09, 2019 7:15 pm
Location: Atlanta

Re: Lock Configurations & Repair

Post by anchored » Sun Oct 27, 2019 4:12 pm

The metal parts are for earlier models.

The plastic bits you have are for a car with central locking.

I will buy them if you are not using them.

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