Help Support Bigcoupe.com

Adding 6x9 spearkers and a subwoofer to a BMW 635

This forum is dedicated to technical write-ups contributed by Bigcoupe.com members. Please submit an article you have written to brian@bigcoupe.com in order to have your article posted.

Moderators: ron, bfons, GRNSHRK

User avatar
bcadmin
Site Admin
Posts: 313
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 3:28 am
Location: Denver CO
Contact:

Adding 6x9 spearkers and a subwoofer to a BMW 635

Postby bcadmin » Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:52 am

Provided by Peter Siposs


So you're not so happy with the sound coming from the existing stock speakers.
The odd size of the rear speakers makes you wonder about replacing them with something modern.
You want to make it look original though so what to do?
You can indeed fit 6x9 speakers and a subwoofer plus amplifier and nobody will be able to see anything
different when you're done.


How it looks on my car before and after:
Image


The original rear speakers on my 89 635 were only 4 or 5 inch round with a seperate 1 inch tweeter all mounted in a rectangular plastic housing.
Pretty feeble for these cars.
Fitting anything larger than 6x9 would requiring loosing the original grille cover and I wanted to retain the original look.
I found that a large magnet 6x9 coaxial speaker would just fit in the shallow depths of the original area.
Mounting them would require an adapter plate and some slight modifications.
To access them, remove 2 screws holding the bottom corner of each seat and pull them forward.
Now the seat is out of the way and you can see how the pods are mounted. Undo two 13 or 14mm nuts holding the pods down.
Lift upward to disconnect the wires and the rear of the pod just hooks in and the whole thing can be removed from the car.
Unscrew the original speaker mounting base and remove.

Here is how the original speakers looked:
Image
Image


Here is the area as viewed without the pod attached. You can see how shallow it is:
Image


Here is the pod without a speaker:
Image

Its made of steel and covered with vinyl and foam underside.
Trim away the opening a little with a utility knife.
Also flatten the underside by cutting away high spots of foam.
The mounting screw holes are indented and I flattened them in a vice.
This ensures the new adapter plate fits flat and snug.
I made a cardboard template first to find the right sizing including the size of the new speaker.
Due to creases in the steel, I formed the plate to fit close.
Once I got the shape I liked I cut the plate from thin masonite with a jig saw.
Its about 3/16th thick I believe. Basically the same stuff used for pegboard without the holes.
I drilled out the original speaker mounting holes to allow screwing from the top downward.
After applying a silicone adhesive I screwed the unit to the pod.
The silicone prevents rattling and provides a solid transfer of resonance.


Here is the pod on its back with the plate attached:
Image


Same as viewed from the top:
Image


Attach the new speaker with screws. Be sure to use washers and lock washers to prevent having them come loose or pulling through.
Image


Here is the speaker as viewed without the cover in place.
Image


Do the other side the same way and reinstall the pods and the seats. Don't forget to plug the wires back in!
Finished:
Image



Problem areas to consider for mounting additional speakers:
Adding a large subwoofer to the center of the trunk ceiling would require relocating the fuel vapor cansiter as shown here:
Image


Adding speakers to the vertical wall below the rear seats on models with rear AC would require major rerouting of
freon hoses and related equipment as show here in the photo below. Also, for cars without AC,
the wall under the seat where some people mount 6x9 or 5" speakers is NOT big enough for an 8" sub.
The wall is about 7-1/2" high or less. The seat may foul the back of the speaker anyway.
Image




UPDATE:
In an effort to enhance the bass notes even further I added a subwoofer plus amplifier and put two holes under each 6x9 speaker.
This significantly improved the bass sound and finally obtained the sound I was seeking without any visual changes to the car or valuable space taken or high expense.

First I'll discuss the addition of holes under the 6x9s previously added.
The cavity under the speakers are very shallow and do not promote decent bass.
Most cars have a direct opening under the speakers to the trunk but on this model they are blocked.
There are effectively 3 layers under the speakers. A thin compressed wood area, steel deck area, and the felt ceiling of the trunk.
Once I gained access to the area and removed the trunk ceiling, I used a door lock hole saw to cut 2 circles through the compressed wood,
then an electrical conduit knock-out punch (aka chassis punch) to cut through the steel deck area under it.
Another method would be to drill numerous 1/8" holes all the way around very close together, then use a stepped drill bit which will enlarge the holes
so they touch the other opening and you have a hole, though not very smooth but it works. Highly suggest using a center punch first to help the bits from
wandering. Trace a paint can or roll of electrical tape to make the circle.

An air nibbler or other cutter could be used too but I bought the knock out punch kit on ebay for this and other
uses and it works really nicely leaving a distortion free steel hole and no debris.


These are the cutters used:
Image


Here are the resulting holes as viewed from the interior:
Image


..and from the the trunk (with felt ceiling panel removed):
Image


To really obtain a significant improvement of bass however,
I added a subwoofer once I determined I could mount one without having it seen or take up any trunk space.
My car has rear seat AC/cooler which has an unused cavity directly behind the cooler area and under the center pad.
6-series cars without rear AC also have room here but not certain it is large enough to house something like I used.
I was going to make my own speaker box but decided to simplify by buying something off the shelf.
Its originally intended for a 6x9 speaker, but I cut the hole larger to fit an 8 inch subwoofer.
A box intended for an 8 inch speaker was too big for the area, as was using a 10 inch speaker
because of the depth available.
Having it facing the rear of the AC isn't ideal, but it resonates nicely and surely has to be better
than mounting something in the trunk.



Here is the area once the seats were removed. Notice the area directly behind the cooler area.:
Image


Four screws removed and the center pad plastic support came out for modification.
It is basically an upper and lower segment. Upper area holds the center pad in place but the lower area is unused.
This photo shows the plastic support with the pad removed and off to the left.
Image


I cut off the lower portion as high as possible to provide room for the speaker box later:
Image


Here is the speaker box with the 8 inch Sony Xplod Subwoofer:
Image


..and resting below the modified centerpad support to show sizing:
Image


And finally with the entire setup mounted behind the AC/Cooler and ready for the seats to go back in.
Angle brackets hold it solid to the back steel wall:
Image
Image



An amplifier is needed to drive the speaker.
I had hoped to use the amplifier to also drive the 6x9 speakers so I bought a 4 channel amp.
The amp is a DHD 200 watt 4-channel unit and was chosen partly because of its relative small flat size.
The Alpine head unit in the dash had low level RCA connections to provide signal to the amp so I had to
run a pair of shielded wires from the dash to the trunk and used the center tunnel area covers to provide the path.
Since I am only using one subwoofer,
I had to combine both left and right signals just before the amp in order to get L/R bass sounds from the one subwoofer.
Some people say only one channel/side is needed but I disagree and didn't want only bass from one channel.
Doing so however meant that I could not use the other channels of the amplifier to drive the 6x9s as they would then be mono, not stereo.
I could use high level (speaker level) signals on the secondary portion of the amp to drive the 6x9s independently of the subwoofer.
The head unit is already 35 watts and seems plenty for the 6x9s anyway at least for now.
So the amp is overkill but it does work well for the subwoofer.
The amp was mounted to the back of the trunk on the wall and behind the felt panel.
Like I keep saying, I really wanted no space taken and nothing seen.
Looking in the trunk or the interior of the car you'd never know anything was added to enhance the sound system.
This is the amplifier mounted to the inside trunk wall (felt panel not yet remounted):
Image
 

UKDaveJ

Postby UKDaveJ » Fri Apr 16, 2004 9:39 pm

:lol: What a thoroughly excellent article! A real credit to the author & a lesson to anyone who is going to provide a tech article annotated with appropriate photos 8)

Now i've got some 6x9's and an amp that came out of my Ford 2.8i Capri......now I know how to fit without being too obvious from inside.
 

sohlman
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Mar 11, 2013 5:27 pm
Location: Surrey

Postby sohlman » Fri Apr 16, 2004 10:59 pm

Remember though Dave that the picture illustrates putting the 6x9's in a highline rear pod and your rear pod is different. Whilts it will work the same way you will not be able to cover things up afterwards and hide the speaker as on our cars the speaker area are 6x4 and are at the side of the rear pods. You will end up having to use the speaker cover that came with th speakers and it will not look so neat
 

User avatar
Brucey
6 Series Guru
Posts: 9532
Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 7:17 am
Location: Cambridge, UK

subwoofer

Postby Brucey » Sat Apr 17, 2004 6:14 am

- I agree with the above re. the earlier pod design. A previous owner of my car installed 7" speakers in the rear below the rear seats, by cutting the panel there. This is OK(-ish, I wouldn't have done this in fact) but the sound is kind of weird, and not what I'd like.

I have also installed a subwoofer in the rear. I had this left over from a previous car project; it is a Pioneer 100W powered subwoofer that sits inside the spare wheel. To fit it, you need to turn the spare wheel upside down, and run speaker wires or signal wires plus switched power into the boot. This was worth the effort, in my case, but I would not have gone out and bought one for this purpose; the added bass is not much, as the boot space is (as the article above notes) acoustically isolated from the car interior. I may yet put some reflex ports in to rectify this.
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 

UKDaveJ

Postby UKDaveJ » Sat Apr 17, 2004 8:40 pm

Maybe someone who has some late model speaker pods that will allow fitment of 6x9's can drop me a PM please.

If not, I'll have a good think of which way I can achieve what I'm looking for, ie great sound, without having to kill boot-space or cut holes in original panels etc......
 

sohlman
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Mar 11, 2013 5:27 pm
Location: Surrey

Postby sohlman » Sat Apr 17, 2004 10:04 pm

If you want a good sound you can't go to far wrong from the system in my car. You've herd it.

Buy some good quality 6x4's front and rear and get some tune ups tweeters at the front to raise the sound. Then get a 10 or 12 inch powerfull sub in the boot. To cut through the steel you need at least 200wrms of power on the sub alone.

My recomendation would be a 4x 40-60 w rms amp to run the front and rear speakers and a 1x200-300w rms amp to run the sub. You then should install a sealed 10'-12' sub and that will give a great sound. Also within the car there will be nothing giving away the fact that you have a good system. If i did my system again i would build a custom box with the amps built into the sides and then carpeted so it would just look like a smaller boot. I also have two 6.5" speakers under the rear seats powered by a third amp and a bass controller controlling the volume of the sub. My head unit has a graffic and i use this to contoll the sound to all 9 speakers insatalled.
 

User avatar
ScottAndrews
Senior Member
Posts: 403
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:53 pm
Location: Petaluma, CA
Contact:

Postby ScottAndrews » Tue Dec 28, 2004 5:59 am

On my early 6er I just made an entirely new package shelf (the part the pods fit to). This allowed me lots more room on the back side. I then used good quality 6 inch round speakers under the pods.

However, I like the idea of cutting the holes into the trunk to make a larger enclosure.

S
---
80 Euro 635 aka Rosanante - Don Quixote's steed...ready to carry me off to dream the impossible dream... La Verdad...the Truth.

Scott Andrews
Petaluma, CA
 

ghostinhere13

Postby ghostinhere13 » Wed Jan 11, 2006 1:35 am

i've got some questions. i like how you set the speaker behind the cooler area, and i'll probably be doing the same thing.. but how does it sound? does anything rattle that shouldn't? and does the sound come through like it needs to, to be heard properly? second of all, i have an 87 635csi 5 speed u.s. spec... and i cant seem to find the stock amp for the life of me.. i've tried following the wires from the speakers and they just seem to run into oblivious places with no amp.. a little help? thanks

brad
 

The Sixer Kid

Postby The Sixer Kid » Wed Jan 11, 2006 7:06 am

your in luck as i just spent the entire day installing a new head unit, new speakers, new sub woofers, new i-pod bus, and a new amp for the subs.

the stock amp is located in the trunk on the right hand side close to the tail light. IMO it is a complete POS. utter crap. At first I installed the head unit running the speakers through the stock amp, It sounded just as it did with the OEM head unit. then i proceeded to bypass the amp (took about two hours, because everything has to be hard wired), the new head unit (pioneer deh-6700 mp) made the old amp sound like everything was under water. I think its really worth the extra time to bypass the stock amp. I can post some pics if you want of how i wired in the subs and amps (i didn't use the single 8 inch shown, but instead a pair of 10's) the only PITA is getting the battery cable across the firewall (i was forced to use 8 guage wire because the holes aren't big enough)
 

Oz6er

Postby Oz6er » Sat Jan 21, 2006 1:58 am

I ran across this article, and without thoroughly inspecting my rear pods bought a set of 6x9" Sony's.
To my dismay when I went to disassemble the pods, I noticed mine were the type with the 4x6" speaker installed off to the outside of the pod, with a small port hole leading to the boot (trunk).
The 6x9" speakers are temporarily sitting in situ on the rear luggage pods, but the pod covers all but silence their sound.

Is there anyone selling black rear luggage pod covers in excellent condition that match the ones featured in this article (Sohlman
mentioned "highline")???

Otherwise, what other mod do you suggest? I don't want to hack into the original pod covers (too visible), nor am I persistant enough to make some sort of shaped pod cover fashioned out of speaker mesh. I've considered remaking the entire rear parcel shelf as a flat unit, but that would remove the original look of the pods, and require re-carpeting to match the existing interior (not keen on that either)

I'm also running into some woe with the front 4x6" speaker ports, they currently contain Kenwoods with small enough magnets to fit, but they won't cope with power output of the new head unit I'm about to install. The better VDO 90W 4x6" speakers I had running in the rear won't fit due to larger magnets. A bash on the metal speaker port holes with a hammer indicate to me that it's fairly solid stuff, and not to be mucked around with by an amateur.
Standout mounts won't work because of the bonnet (hood) release lever.

I'm also considering installing 6" or 6.5" splits in the front doors, with the tweeter in a custom mount behind the side mirrors. I saw some of these on eBay a while ago, but can't find them now.
Any tips on accomodating these speakers centered around what appears to be a redundant window winder hole? (mine has electric windows)

All suggestions and/or pm's welcome.
 

User avatar
sharkfan
Senior Member
Posts: 1981
Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2004 3:14 pm
Location: Guildford, U.K.

Postby sharkfan » Sat Jan 21, 2006 9:46 am

My rear pods on my M6 are the early type with the small 6x4's on the side but a PO had cut into the centre part with some small (6" ?) dual cone pioneer speakers which were basically shagged.

I ummed and erred for ages and contemplated new pods, later pods and enlarging the existing holes to fit 6x9's - I found that although 6x9 speakers will fit, all the plastic mounting rings and gumpf that goes with them would take them over the edge of the flat area of the pod and would ultimately look pants.

Also - nearly all the speaker grills that come these days are very garish and not really keeping with the understated look I personally like to try and keep with my sixers.

So in the end I fitted exactly the same size speakers as the dual-cones that were fitted, kept the dual cone grills but upgraded to some powerful compact 3 ways - the result is an impressive sound :D deceptive looks (the grills still have "dual-cone" written on them) and the understated look I wanted to keep 8)

I suppose if some later pods came up I might fit them now I have the colour matched spray but I'm pretty pleased with the look and sound for now 8)
Attachments
DSC00437.JPG
DSC00437.JPG (148.61 KiB) Viewed 11086 times
 

sohlman
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Mar 11, 2013 5:27 pm
Location: Surrey

Postby sohlman » Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:26 am

There is one other possbility.

I now you can buy speaker carpet and speaker cloth and this is generally used in building sub boxes and covering shelfs. Conseviable you could cut out and mount the 6x9's in the pods and then recover the pods with speaker cloth that would hide the speakers. If you got some cloth that matched your interior colour it would not look wrong, but as it's never been done it would be worth while exsperimenting

OR

Carefully with a dremel cut out holes in the pod in the same way that holes are cut into the earlier pods for the 6x4 speakers. Then you can mount the speakers underneath on the shelf and recover the pods with a vinyle or a leather. Then you have them looking kind of original, but the sounds will go through.

OR

You can do what Brucey has just done and mount the 6x9's under the rear seats and then fit some 6x4 on the rear shelf too to balance the sound up.

Hope this adds ideas

James
 

Oz6er

Postby Oz6er » Sun Jan 22, 2006 2:49 am

Sohlman wrote:I now you can buy speaker carpet and speaker cloth and this is generally used in building sub boxes and covering shelfs. Conseviable you could cut out and mount the 6x9's in the pods and then recover the pods with speaker cloth that would hide the speakers. If you got some cloth that matched your interior colour it would not look wrong, but as it's never been done it would be worth while exsperimenting

Conceivable, yes, but perhaps the speaker cloth would look better with a black plastic frame to round out the look and to hide the dremel cuts in the pod?

Sohlman wrote:Carefully with a dremel cut out holes in the pod in the same way that holes are cut into the earlier pods for the 6x4 speakers. Then you can mount the speakers underneath on the shelf and recover the pods with a vinyle or a leather. Then you have them looking kind of original, but the sounds will go through.

That's a good one! Although probably too complicated for me, as I havent run a dremel around before, and I know there's metal to contend with. I'd rather cut a 6x9 hole and smooth that out :?
Sohlman wrote:You can do what Brucey has just done and mount the 6x9's under the rear seats and then fit some 6x4 on the rear shelf too to balance the sound up.

I haven't had the back seats out before, where's the bolts? I guess I'll have to find that one out if I decide to muck around with the rear shelf, or remove the rear pods altogether.
sharkfan wrote:Also - nearly all the speaker grills that come these days are very garish and not really keeping with the understated look I personally like to try and keep with my sixers.

Spot on there... I bought some Sony 6x9" (luckily with grey cones, not red, even though my 6er is red) But the supplied grills when sat on the pods add another 3/4" in height and obviously looked ugly. They'd look better once they were bolted to the metal plate within the pods, but unless almost flush, still ugly.
I guess I can hunt for some better grills, but thanks for the ideas :)
 

jrcalvin
Senior Member
Posts: 770
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 2:08 am
Location: Farmington, Utah, USA
Contact:

Postby jrcalvin » Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:23 am

I think the best way is to be patient and find some of the later pods. I have the later pods installed and a 6x9 fits easily and can be centered under the larger centered speaker grill. In fact you can also install some 8" subs there as long as the depth of the 8" sub is less 4". My system uses larger 5" dual cones in the front, tweeters in the front /side window panel trim near the mirrors and two 8" 65 oz magnet subs under the speaker pods. I will post a pic later.
"Strictly Sixers" (SS)
Farmington, Utah, USA
Image
 

User avatar
GWL
Senior Member
Posts: 1651
Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 9:24 pm
Location: Harrison, AR US
Contact:

Postby GWL » Sat Jul 15, 2006 10:33 pm

jrcalvin wrote:I think the best way is to be patient and find some of the later pods. I have the later pods installed and a 6x9 fits easily and can be centered under the larger centered speaker grill. In fact you can also install some 8" subs there as long as the depth of the 8" sub is less 4". My system uses larger 5" dual cones in the front, tweeters in the front /side window panel trim near the mirrors and two 8" 65 oz magnet subs under the speaker pods. I will post a pic later.


I would like to see a picture of your installation. Please!
George
Image

87 M6
80 635 CSi Euro owned for 29 years
77 320i My first BMW in 1977 Sold for 80 Euro
 

dalkaveli

Postby dalkaveli » Sun Jul 01, 2007 2:05 am

GWL wrote:
I would like to see a picture of your installation. Please!


I second that! Granted its a year later :)
As far as this article, what are the dimensions of the box, 10X10?
 

hussainsa_M6

Postby hussainsa_M6 » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:56 pm

Hello,

Does anyone have a copy of the article that started this thread? - i cannot see the photo's.

I'm try to fit some Focal Polyglass 6x9's into the rear shelf/pods in my '89 Highline M635CSi. These speaker are fairly deep and do not clear the fibre board pod that the old speakers sit in.

Has anyone removed these fibre board pods / enclosures? I guess I could simply cut into them to allow space for the magnet.

I need to use the black plastic panels to mount the speakers since the grills fit into these panels (they have the lip around the edge into which the grills fit) - will mean cutting the panel and mounting the focal 6x9's from under the panel.

I know that i could go for a shallower speaker but I love the sound of the focal's.

If anyone has completed this kind of 6x9 deep speaker install in a highline, i could use your advice.
 

User avatar
Da_Hose
Senior Member
Posts: 2973
Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 8:15 am
Location: Napa, Ca.

Postby Da_Hose » Tue Aug 18, 2009 11:33 pm

I removed the grill of the speaker pod, removed the existing speakers and fiberboard and cut/shaped a new piece of fiberboard. The fiberboard mounts to the pod with the original 4 screws and the new speakers sit on top of the fiberboard and use their own screws to hold on. So I put the whole speaker on top of the fiber board. I didn't use the grills that came with the speaker. Stock grilles went on fine and you can't tell anything is other than stock.

Jose
1987 M6 - My dream car
 

User avatar
Val_C
Bigcoupe supporter
Posts: 777
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 11:33 pm
Location: Toronto, Canada
Contact:

Postby Val_C » Wed Aug 19, 2009 1:21 am

 

hussainsa_M6

Postby hussainsa_M6 » Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:46 pm

Thanks for the advice and tips, guys. I'll give it a go over the weekend.
 

legolas120

Postby legolas120 » Sat Aug 13, 2011 2:00 pm

Hey all.

I am in the process of rewiring my entire stereo system. Here is what I have in place:

Fronts: Polk 4x6 2way
Rears: Alpine 6x9 2way (had to fix a PO chop job on the original pods)
Sub: Boston G2 10" in ported box in trunk
Amp: Pioneer GM-D7400M (400w) mono

I have all new 12 gauge wire run to all the speakers. The rears run along the lower door jam channel. I also ran the amp RCA's with them.

I ran the 8 gauge power and the remote power wires along the drivers door jam channel. There was an available hole through the firewall to the battery for power.

I am going to run 10 gauge wire from the amp to the sub. My decision is where to put the amp. I have enough cable to put it in the trunk. I am really tempted to put it under the rear drivers side seat. I removed the factory Motorola phone system amp from there yesterday. The Pioneer amp is 2.25" tall, and 10x8" "square". Everything I read about this amp says it runs cool. I know it will fit with room to spare, but is under the seat a good idea?

This is not a daily driver, and we won't be taking it on long trips. I also won't be pushing this system too much.

So, looking for any advice or suggestions on this one. I am leaning toward under the seat, but have not done a thing yet.

Thanks...
 

JustinR
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Mar 06, 2013 5:18 am
Location: United States, Riverside

Postby JustinR » Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:24 pm

Hey all,

Can anyone tell me if the 6x9"s will fit under my pod and look stock? I can't seem to find which years this works for.

I have a US-spec 1986 635csi

Thank you!
-J
1986 635csi
 

madman
Bigcoupe supporter
Posts: 159
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:53 am
Location: Dubai/UAE

JBL 4'' x 6''

Postby madman » Sun Dec 29, 2013 9:30 pm

I just installed a set 4 JBL GTO-6429 6" x 4" Coaxial Speaker System in the front and rear speaker pods and they fit keeping the stock look. You need to remove the metal frame off the speakers (4 screws) and they will provide very good performance. In the front you will need speaker cover spacers but the overall look remains stock and it doesn't affect the boot lever arm nor the glove box.

I also bought a set of 5.25'' JBL component system with tweeters to fit the stock space in my rear premium speaker pods. I am adding a small 4 channel Rockford amplifier (gives 75w RMS) to plug in the dash to amplify the signal coming out of my CD43 ( I want to keep the stock look). For the subwoofer I am thinking of adding the Alpine integrated subwoofer system behind the rear center console and hopefully I get a good running system.
635 CSI Black 1989
New paint
New leather seats
BBS RS 285 18" Rims
 

User avatar
Brucey
6 Series Guru
Posts: 9532
Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 7:17 am
Location: Cambridge, UK

Postby Brucey » Sun Dec 29, 2013 11:01 pm

if you want to fit 6x9s and/or subs under the rear seat instead, see this thread

http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2154&highlight=blingtastic

cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 

User avatar
Sprocket
Bigcoupe supporter
Posts: 284
Joined: Sun Jan 17, 2010 6:20 pm
Location: Winston-Salem, NC

Postby Sprocket » Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:10 pm

I did about the same thing (minus the "blingtastic" portholes), but it was easier for me since some PO had already cut holes in the under-seat bulkheads and perforated the carpets with tiny holes over an area shaped like the speakers (same done in front kick panels). So, my "bling" is hidden and you would not know they were there.

I am guessing that the same shop that installed the $900 (in 1987!) Sony CD head unit, did that work on the carpets over the speakers. It seemed a pro-job, but the stereo no longer worked and someone had removed the rear under-seat speakers by the time I got the car (and installed 2 10" subs in big boxes in the trunk (now gone).
Home of the Silver Bimmers
'84 Euro 635 CSi (and '91 M5, and '99 E36)
 


-->

Return to “Tech Articles”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest