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BMW 635 Central locking switch installation

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BMW 635 Central locking switch installation

Postby bcadmin » Tue Apr 13, 2004 12:05 pm

Provided by Peter Siposs


Tired of reaching back or using your elbow to lock the doors?
Tired of leaning over to open a door for a passenger or opening your own door to unlock them?
Want the ability to easily lock the doors AND trunk while you drive thus preventing unwanted entry?
All you need is a common window switch from any 6 series, 528e, or early 7 series and some simple wiring.
The switch I used was not a lighted type but thats fine.
A switch that has the arrows worn off is best since otherwise the arrows would point left and right rather than up and down.
Rotating the buttons in the switch is not possible unfortunately.
Just remember it cannot be a latching switch - must be momentary.
The rear window lockout switch cannot be used for this reason.

Here is how it will look when completed. Looks original & natural.
Image


There are four horizontal plates under the radio area.
On my car they were all blanking plates but many cars will have a stereo fader control and/or heated seat switches.
The standard window switch is a perfect fit with no trimming etc required.
I used the far right location so that both driver and passenger can reach it and its right above the shift handle making it easy to find in the dark or without looking for it.

To prevent damaging the surround of the switch area, I found it best to remove the dummy plate by accessing from behind.
Or, since you're removing the dummy plate anyway you can drill a small hole in it then put in a wood screw and pull the plate out.



WIRING:

(!!! Since the locking module is also a safety device as used to unlock doors during an accident, you must remove power to the unit by either removing Fuse #27, or disconnecting the battery!!!)
(Note: These steps outline my experience on my 89 635. I hear that an 86 model matches mine however.
Your cars locking module may be in a different location)
Open the glove box and remove the screws securing the ceiling plate of the glove box.
You will have to remove the limit straps for the glove box door to remove the ceiling plate.
The glove box light will have to be temporarily disconnected too.
You will not have to remove the glove box door itself however.

Make a new wire set of 3 different color strands of 14 gauge wire and about 2 feet long.
I chose red for lock, blue for unlock and black for ground.
Leave the ground wire about 6 inches longer and solder a screw tab to it.
This will be screwed to the ceiling along with the lock module.
I used the original window switch socket and grafted my wires to that, ignoring the original socket wire colors.

I marked with a black marker on the switch to identify the pins you will need - as shown in the photo below. From left to right: L ock , G round, U nlock.
The other 2 pins are unused. Note the white plastic orientation pin.
Image

Be careful with the socket you may be using. I noticed one of my spares did not
give a connection to one of the needed pins.


My choice was for the indented botton to be lock while the bubble button as unlock.
Just seemed like up and down to me.
Solder and shrink tubing a must.
Braid or twist the 3 wire set to stay neat and feed through the switch hole toward the lock module and grab from behind.
Image


The Locking module is mounted vertically to the metal ceiling bracing and to the left side rear section of the glove box.
Its a black box about 5 inches long and 1x2 rectangular.

Image


Remove the two screws holding it to the ceiling and bring the unit still plugged in toward the opening of the glove box.
I marked on the plug which wires - as shown in the photo below.

Image
Image


There are two rows of about 10 wires on the plug.
You want access to pins #6 and 7 which for me was the yellow/blue wire and green/blue wires.
The module had the pin numbers identified also. Pin 6 is unlock and 7 is lock.
My preferred method to tap into these wires is to remove the plug from the unit, identify the correct wires,
use a paperclip to release the wire socket and remove each wire one at a time from the plug.
Remove about a 3/8" section of insulation near the end of the wire but don't cut the wire.
Attach the corresponding newly made wire set to each old wire and solder.
Then cover them each with shrink tubing (or electrical tape) and reinstall into the plug.


Reinstall the lock module to the ceiling including one of the screws through the new ground wire.
Tie everything up neatly and reinstall the glove box ceiling plate etc.
If not already done so, push the new switch into position.
Reinstall the fuse or reconnect the battery cable and proceed to test/use. This does not require the key for use.
NOTE: I heard that over use of the module in rapid succesion will burn it out. Use it only as needed.

You're done!

Image

The red LED on the left is the alarm indicator.
 

UKDaveJ

Now thats a good idea!

Postby UKDaveJ » Tue Oct 12, 2004 6:55 am

Nice one!

Must add that to my list.... :roll:

Very useful. Sharkfan is going to do the same thing from what I hear, definitely makes sense.

Now what about using another 'window' switch (located in another of the switch blanks) to seperately unlock the boot - which in theory, would rise up on its linkages at the press of the button?

Anyone (with a wiring diagram...) got any ideas as to where to 'get into' the switching for the boot? Same unit as shown for the central locking mod?

Cheers,

Dave 8)
 

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Remote Central locking switch

Postby sharkfan » Tue Oct 12, 2004 12:32 pm

Thank you to bcadmin,

I did this fix to my '85 M6 in under an hour and encountered no problems. Top article including all the photos.

I don't think Dave's suggestion of an automatic boot opener wired in the same way would work becuase the actuators only operate the locks not the handles or boot button. If you wanted to do this I think you'd need a second (more powerful ??) actuator operating the actual boot mechnism, as opposed to the lock, as at present.

Incidentally, the trickiest bit for me seemed be squeezing the switch into the dash aperture, it sure was tight and at one stage I thought it wouldn't go - but it did and my spine is a lot happier. Next step is do it to my 635.

Thanks again. :D [/img]
 

UKDaveJ

Re: Remote Central locking switch

Postby UKDaveJ » Tue Oct 12, 2004 12:57 pm

sharkfan wrote:Thank you to bcadmin,

I did this fix to my '85 M6 in under an hour and encountered no problems. Top article including all the photos.

I don't think Dave's suggestion of an automatic boot opener wired in the same way would work becuase the actuators only operate the locks not the handles or boot button. If you wanted to do this I think you'd need a second (more powerful ??) actuator operating the actual boot mechnism, as opposed to the lock, as at present.

Incidentally, the trickiest bit for me seemed be squeezing the switch into the dash aperture, it sure was tight and at one stage I thought it wouldn't go - but it did and my spine is a lot happier. Next step is do it to my 635.

Thanks again. :D [/img]


I'm glad it was so straight-forward, mind you with excellent instructions & good quality photos alot of the head-aches of doing it from scratch are removed I'd guess.
Not having done it myself yet, I too hope I can manage it in under an hour. :wink: Pressures on.... :shock:

You are probably right on the boot switch idea, I clearly hadn't thought that one through properly, not for the first time I might add..... :oops:

Dave 8)
 

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Central Locking switch - 2nd time advice

Postby sharkfan » Fri Dec 17, 2004 2:55 pm

Hi,

I've just carried out a second extra central locking switch conversion on my 635 and the only thing I'd change is do with the switch itself. The window switch is a VERY tight fit in the 4-button panel and future removal could potentially damage the button mounting plate, so the second time around I ripped off the metal springs that sit each end of the window lift button.

The fit is still easily tight enough but future removal would lessen the risk of damage to the console plate. As for removing the metal springs, I didn't dare try to dis-assemble the button, just a pair of pliers, a pull and a twist and it comes cleanly away.

Hope this helps.

Sharkfan.
 

Dan in DC

Postby Dan in DC » Sun Sep 10, 2006 11:32 pm

In my experience, the lighted switch will not work.

In my 1987 635CSi, the lights (apparently) close the gaps between the contacts enough to form a direct circuit between the lock and unlock contacts. I've tested it with two lighted switches, including a known-good switch from the shift console.

I have yet to obtain a non-lit switch, to see if it's the lights or my 6er.
 

dalkaveli

Postby dalkaveli » Sat Jun 16, 2007 6:47 pm

Well I finally managed to get the wires out of the socket, took me hours but satisfaction is much higher having succeeded. Now to connect my newer wire set and see how it goes!
 

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Postby cgswift » Sun Jun 17, 2007 5:34 pm

You GO Aaron! These fine machines were put together by regular guys like us. There is no reason that another regular guy can't fix it, or make it better. I will be attempting the same mod on a 1983 633CSi. I'm unsure of just what complications I might run into. Maybe some, maybe none.
1983 633CSi Balticblau Metallic

"Strive for perfection, excellence will be accepted."
 

dalkaveli

Postby dalkaveli » Sun Jun 17, 2007 6:51 pm

cgswift wrote:You GO Aaron! These fine machines were put together by regular guys like us. There is no reason that another regular guy can't fix it, or make it better. I will be attempting the same mod on a 1983 633CSi. I'm unsure of just what complications I might run into. Maybe some, maybe none.


heh, I also have an 83. I managed to get everything in place but it doesnt work. I'm thinking the unit itself is dead, I re-did everything this morning as I wasn't satisfied with my work before. I'll try another switch but I think the CLU is wasted :roll:
 

jarni4

Postby jarni4 » Wed Nov 07, 2007 6:58 am

Dan in DC wrote:In my experience, the lighted switch will not work.

In my 1987 635CSi, the lights (apparently) close the gaps between the contacts enough to form a direct circuit between the lock and unlock contacts. I've tested it with two lighted switches, including a known-good switch from the shift console.

I have yet to obtain a non-lit switch, to see if it's the lights or my 6er.


Hello, I am just about to do the install of this switch... can anyone tell me if this lighted switch really deosnt work? If not, can I just open the switch and take the lights out? Or must I search for a non-lighted switch? If so, which BMW models had this kind of switch and where was it located or what was it used for?

Thanks , J
 

C-Fade M-Tech

Postby C-Fade M-Tech » Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:09 am

Hey I have an add-on to this! i actually have a lighted switch on mine.... also a twist I redid the switch to adjust the arrow to face the proper direction... should I post instructions on how? heres some pictures of my installation.....

Inside Of switch
Image
Image

Buttons that have to be modifided to be turned 90* degrees
Image
Image

Finished switch
Image
 

dalkaveli

Postby dalkaveli » Mon Jan 14, 2008 1:19 am

yea you should type a nice guide. :D
 

C-Fade M-Tech

Postby C-Fade M-Tech » Mon Jan 14, 2008 4:15 am

Ok I'll get on it after im done redoing my back lights.....(blacking chrome and redoing internal silver)
 

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Illuminated switch

Postby cgswift » Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:43 am

A6&7,
Your system actually functions with the illuminated switch? Others have not had such luck!

I'm working on a lighted switch presently, changing the attitude of the directional arrows, to see if it will function in my car. I'm attempting something a little different than your approach, wish me luck. Toph

Sorry, I forgot, welcome to the madness! Coupes Up!
1983 633CSi Balticblau Metallic



"Strive for perfection, excellence will be accepted."
 

C-Fade M-Tech

Postby C-Fade M-Tech » Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:59 am

yeah mine works great..... the doors have to be closed though... if you need any help I check the forums like everyday after work :D
had no issues Still typing up a tech article on it what set up are you going to do?
 

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Postby cgswift » Thu Jan 17, 2008 8:24 am

Is your switch illuminated with the headlights, or is that the only switch that you had? Toph
1983 633CSi Balticblau Metallic



"Strive for perfection, excellence will be accepted."
 

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Postby Super Coop » Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:30 am

Alpinesixandseven wrote:Hey I have an add-on to this! i actually have a lighted switch on mine.... also a twist I redid the switch to adjust the arrow to face the proper direction... should I post instructions on how? heres some pictures of my installation.....

Inside Of switch
Image
Image

Buttons that have to be modifided to be turned 90* degrees
Image
Image

Finished switch
Image

How did you change the buttons, thats the only thing missing on mine, great idea....
Attachments
sept_2007_montana_run_2 173.jpg
sept_2007_montana_run_2 173.jpg (55.81 KiB) Viewed 4845 times
 

C-Fade M-Tech

Postby C-Fade M-Tech » Fri Jan 18, 2008 6:35 am

I'm writing the tech article on it should be done soon i'm also gonna rip apart another switch for more pictures

And my switch is like the power window where they illuminate when the ignition is turned to ACC. or RUN i like the oem look of it BUT I'm thinking or changing all my switches to ones form an e36 which updates the cars look and so when the interior is redone the switches are the only thing that really show the cars age..... but the is like 1-2 years away! the article should be up soon but Might go to canada for a week to visit another werks member(bimmerwerkz.com really active site it any of you are interested sadly there are only 3 sharks there.....including me... so join them if you want people there are really nice like here)
 

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Postby Chris Wright » Tue Feb 26, 2008 5:21 pm

How is the write-up comming? Inquiring minds want to know how you pulled off lighting the switch? :) 8)
__________________________
Chris Wright
'87 635Csi
3 MGA's
MG 1100
 

C-Fade M-Tech

Postby C-Fade M-Tech » Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:05 am

Sry it is taking SOOOO darn long.... im a student with full time job and 3 cars.... im really busy now... almost done.... since have made a second one.... if anyone wants it when it is back together i'll give it to them for postage.... im in da US....
 

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Postby Da_Hose » Sun Mar 16, 2008 3:06 am

Well hell Alpine, if you make an offer like that I'll be first in line ... AND I'm local. :wink:

I will gladly and gratefully take the switch and compensate you with some beer money.

Jose
 

C-Fade M-Tech

Postby C-Fade M-Tech » Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:31 pm

Da_Hose wrote:Well hell Alpine, if you make an offer like that I'll be first in line ... AND I'm local. :wink:

I will gladly and gratefully take the switch and compensate you with some beer money.

Jose


lol thanks but i'z only 19

Ok i'm thinking about making a batch of them anyone that wants them.... all i would charge is postal and like $2 to get a switch from the local junker...
write up is almost done....
 

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Postby Da_Hose » Mon Mar 17, 2008 4:56 am

Well then, make it sody pop! :wink:

Jose
 

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Update maybe?

Postby cgswift » Tue Mar 25, 2008 8:45 am

Although I have yet to complete the installation, this might be of value to you if you plan to perform this modification. If I had a decent digital camera, you would have seen photos of my progress on the car in 'My Project'. That being said, you will have to imagine what I'm about to attempt to explain to you.

I am sure that you are all anxiously waiting for Klearz to finish production of the rear turn signal lenses. In anticipation of this event I am sure that you have all purchased the Xacto 'Razor Saw' that Ivan told you that you would need. This is where we will start.

1. Present the previously obtained illuminated switches that you purchased off of eBay.

2. Produce the Xacto Razor Saw, and find a well lighted work area.

3. Disassemble the switch in its entirety. Disassembly of the switch should be self evident. If you are stumped at this point, perhaps this isn't for you.

4. On the buttons, you will notice a wear pattern from previous use. This is your 'guideline'. Using your brand new razor saw, slowly start to score a groove around the wearline. Once a circumnavigation of the button has been achieved, you can get a little bit more aggressive. Continue until you have removed the top 'hat' of the button. Now do the other one.

5. You are now free to 'rotate' the button hat indicator to the desired position.

6. I used 3M 320 Grit Wet-or-Dry sandpaper to remove the saw marks, and true any inconsistancies created by the UML. :roll: Place the paper on a flat, hard surface and draw the pieces across the paper. I rotated the pieces between each stroke to obtain the flattest 'milled' surface that I could.

7. Blow off any dust and apply a VERY small amount of good ol' Superglue to the lower piece's new surface. Apply your button hat in the correct attitude, and hold for a few seconds. Repeat for second button. Go to bed.

8. Good Morning! Now that we are all refreshed, and our glue has had ample time to dry without you screwing up the entire job, let's continue. Using the same piece of sandpaper on the crisp edge of a table, you can remove any excess glue that may have been applied in your intoxicated state last night. Simply follow the same process from a different attitude.

9. If you really happened to use too much glue, you will need to 'break' off the excess glue from the inside of your button with your handy-dandy pocket screwdriver. Don't ask me just how I came about this little tid-bit of knowledge.

10. Reassembly. Before you get to antsy, and throw everything back together, take a look at the brass contactors that came out of the buttons. You will notice that they have been used. You can clean the contacts with your sandpaper, but I would like to suggest that you switch the contactors left to right. On well used switches the center contacts like to burn, while the outer contacts appear to be unused. Your call.

11. If you look closely at your disassembled switch, you can determine the four terminals that activate the bulbs. It's all DCV, so it shouldn't matter which you use for hot/ground. Mark the terminal lugs with a marker for later use.

12. OK, now you can put the switch back together. Don't you feel better that you have retained the original design and integrity of the switch, yet it now functions as YOU want it to function?

UNTRIED PROCEDURE/USE AT YOUR OWN RISK

13. Install the switch, and wire into the CLS module. Check to make sure switch functions as desired. Run two conductors down to the existing window switches and tap into headlamp hot, and ground.
1983 633CSi Balticblau Metallic



"Strive for perfection, excellence will be accepted."
 

john calhoun
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635

Postby john calhoun » Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:41 am

635
Last edited by john calhoun on Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
john m calhoun
 


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