E24 engine swaps

Brucey · Post by **Brucey** » Tue May 05, 2009 5:46 pm

I have been wondering about fitting the battery in the boot and using the space for a Rotrex (or similar) blower; these are very small, and from an airbox just above would outlet nicely to a cross-front intercooler, then back into the TB in the usual (ish ) way.....

Yeah, the M30 is a tough old bird and right now as cheap as chips in the scrappies; this will not last!

cheers

The Sixer Kid · Post by **The Sixer Kid** » Tue May 05, 2009 6:06 pm

Brucey wrote:I have been wondering about fitting the battery in the boot

I did this using some 2 gauge wire and some metal straps. It freed up the front left corner of the space under the hood so I can mount the aftermarket ignition box.

dailydriver · Post by **dailydriver** » Tue May 05, 2009 6:10 pm

thesixerkid wrote:
Brucey wrote:I have been wondering about fitting the battery in the boot
I did this using some 2 gauge wire and some metal straps. It freed up the front left corner of the space under the hood so I can mount the aftermarket ignition box.

Did you put this in the DIY? Which side of the car and how did you insulate your 2GA? What existing holes did you use? Did you run under the car?

Brucey · Post by **Brucey** » Tue May 05, 2009 6:16 pm

-oh, and is there a slick way of making the connections without making it irreversible? I can do all this stuff but I'd hate to see a slicker way of doing it after I chop my wiring up into pieces needlessly....

Also a battery isolation switch in the cabin seems like a good idea....

cheers

The Sixer Kid · Post by **The Sixer Kid** » Tue May 05, 2009 6:20 pm

dailydriver wrote: Did you put this in the DIY?

No

dailydriver wrote: Which side of the car and how did you insulate your 2GA? What existing holes did you use? Did you run under the car?

The battery is in the middle of the trunk, strapped to the back wall.

The cable was already insulated but on the spots that I had to splice, I used lots of heat shrink wrap and heavy duty electrical tape. The wires are run on the bottom side of the car. I maintained a positive terminal in the engine bay for jump starting purposes. The cable runs up through the spare wheel well. There are holes already drilled for the SLS system (removed) so its was a piece of cake.

The Sixer Kid · Post by **The Sixer Kid** » Tue May 05, 2009 6:21 pm

Brucey wrote:-oh, and is there a slick way of making the connections without making it irreversible? I can do all this stuff but I'd hate to see a slicker way of doing it after I chop my wiring up into pieces needlessly....

Everything on my car is completely reversible. I could move the battery back up to engine bay in about 15-20 minutes.

I'll post up some shots when I get back to CA in a couple weeks.

german performance inc · Tue May 05, 2009 7:05 pm

i salvaged everything from an e30 325 ,battery cable, junction block ,jump post for the front and an additional jump post setup from e32 in the rear, so the battery is hid and my audio amplifiers power up from the jump post in the rear , because with the sub woofer enclosure in the trunk the battery is a PITA to get to without the jump post

mbourland1 · Post by **mbourland1** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:23 pm

The M70 V12 is 2 M30s that share a crank, as far as harness intergration, if you have a complete car...as I do, the harness is all there. I think im going to give it a shot! let you guys know how it goes

german performance inc · Sat Sep 26, 2009 11:16 pm

dont forget .......pictures and a kot of them......dont cheat us

Jordanmilos · Post by **Jordanmilos** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 5:39 pm

While I was in Germany, I came across a 535i which had a Eaton M90 unit in place of the AC compressor. I've seen a cleaner setup than the one Raffi posted and pulled dimensions off of the bracket that was made, still looking for time to pop one out of the CNC mill but real work keeps getting in the way. The Eaton unit is the chapest, you can usually get a whole setup from the Thunderbird Supercoupes for about $400. A Vortech V1 would do nicely, around $1500 on average before you take care of piping and fueling.
I can see the points from both sides. Turbocharging has become very easy considering you can buy a kit and everything is already there for you. I do like the idea of a supercharged M60 6 speed E24. The ESS supercharger kit is over 6K new but I've seen them go for half on feebay. So, 2k for the engine, 1.5K for the tranny, 1.5K for the electricals and bracketry, 3K for the supercharger kit and a good amount of time. Last time I had a driveshaft modified to a custom spec it cost me $450. I would think 9 thousand dollars would put out a V8 E24 with around 420hp and a six speed. Fun in my book and very few can say they have the same thing.
Mind you I do have a welder, a couple of engineers and a machinist who are more than willing to help me out so if you're having a shop put it in, you can forget about it. I can see it costing 20K to make it work.

bigcoupe.com

E24 engine swaps

Supercharger