What did you do to your E24 today?
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
I think I've cured an awful lot of wind noise on my 635CSi.
Whilst taking the internal b-post trim off to sort out a badly seated door seal I pondered why I was getting so much wind noise from the very corner of the door at the base of the mirror triangle. On opening the door and looking up at the underside of the top edge of the wing at the base of the a-pillar I could see daylight edging through where the top of the wing meets the edge of the windscreen scuttle panel/wiper mounting panel. This would be quite a high pressure area when moving, made more so with the assistance of the profile of the A to C post gutter trims of the E24.
A few minutes work with some rubber strip, a pair of scissors and a touch of lube and I have filled said bits and it seems to have greatly reduced the higher pitched wind whistling through the corners of the door.
I suspect when new there was no gap or some kind of flexible stopper but after thirty years and new wings there was an easy to see gap there. More testing tomorrow when I get the M6 out and see how that sounds.
Whilst taking the internal b-post trim off to sort out a badly seated door seal I pondered why I was getting so much wind noise from the very corner of the door at the base of the mirror triangle. On opening the door and looking up at the underside of the top edge of the wing at the base of the a-pillar I could see daylight edging through where the top of the wing meets the edge of the windscreen scuttle panel/wiper mounting panel. This would be quite a high pressure area when moving, made more so with the assistance of the profile of the A to C post gutter trims of the E24.
A few minutes work with some rubber strip, a pair of scissors and a touch of lube and I have filled said bits and it seems to have greatly reduced the higher pitched wind whistling through the corners of the door.
I suspect when new there was no gap or some kind of flexible stopper but after thirty years and new wings there was an easy to see gap there. More testing tomorrow when I get the M6 out and see how that sounds.
2001 Alpina B10 V8 Touring (1 of 12 rhd)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
I think there is meant to be a small gap that water can drain through (and maybe air can make a noise too?), but the bottom of the slot should be sealed and painted. If someone removes your wings and doesn't put them back on properly, there could be a very big gap and that could be very noisy.sharkfan wrote:....A few minutes work with some rubber strip, a pair of scissors and a touch of lube and I have filled said bits and it seems to have greatly reduced the higher pitched wind whistling through the corners of the door.
I suspect when new there was no gap or some kind of flexible stopper but after thirty years and new wings there was an easy to see gap there. More testing tomorrow when I get the M6 out and see how that sounds.
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1659
- Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 2:58 pm
- Location: Cheltenham, U.K.
Changed my alternator and power steering belts and purchased a battery charger since I keep leaving my boot and doors open overnight after working on my car It now starts on the button and there's no annoying/scary chirp and squeal from the engine bay
I'll have to look into what black magic is involved in getting the AC belt on another day. It looks impossible from where I was lying, but if I did get it on then I think it might foul the lower radiator hose when tensioned. The radiator is a new pattern part and the AC belt was missing when I bought the car, so thinking they may all be linked.
I'll have to look into what black magic is involved in getting the AC belt on another day. It looks impossible from where I was lying, but if I did get it on then I think it might foul the lower radiator hose when tensioned. The radiator is a new pattern part and the AC belt was missing when I bought the car, so thinking they may all be linked.
Picture of the wing 'gap' now filled with rubber; both my cars have have had new wings.
It certainly seems a lot quieter - I did consider trying to block/fill it from the the underside of the wing but this method worked out a lot tidier. If it starts to cause issues I can always take it back out - it's an interference fit.
From memory the gaps were 2.5mm to 1mm-ish
It certainly seems a lot quieter - I did consider trying to block/fill it from the the underside of the wing but this method worked out a lot tidier. If it starts to cause issues I can always take it back out - it's an interference fit.
From memory the gaps were 2.5mm to 1mm-ish
- Attachments
-
- wing pic 2.JPG (57.27 KiB) Viewed 8009 times
2001 Alpina B10 V8 Touring (1 of 12 rhd)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1659
- Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 2:58 pm
- Location: Cheltenham, U.K.
I took a bit of time to ensure they didn't sit proud after seeing so many cars that did.wattsmonkey wrote:Ah! Thank you. I was thinking about the wrong area entirely. Your wings don't seem to stand proud on the inner edge like most of the replacement ones do - looks great!
Rob
2001 Alpina B10 V8 Touring (1 of 12 rhd)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
1989 635 CSI
Replaced the 3.91 LSD with a 3.46. The car had the auto replaced with a 5 speed and the ratio seemed a bit steep. perfect for my style now. Also replaced alternator. Just stopped charging.
New low pressure P/S return noses, new P/S filter, flush with Redline Synthetics ATF Dex IV.
Scrubbed the carpet a bit.
Anyone have a good source for floor mats that don't have the dreaded balck foam on the back which comes apart? I need a beige set.
Scrubbed the carpet a bit.
Anyone have a good source for floor mats that don't have the dreaded balck foam on the back which comes apart? I need a beige set.
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Re: 1989 635 CSI
usually the regulator/brushes that clap out. If so it is a ten quid fix.ramp wrote:.... Also replaced alternator. Just stopped charging.
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Today was a good day "
Well , after 28 months my car is sitting on it's wheels again .
After getting the brakes bled and 100% operational I forged ahead and stage by stage brought it down on to the wheels .
I had to initially place the front and rear tyres on to wooden blocks to allow me to correctly tighten the front control arms and rear trailing arm bushes under load but she's down now.
After all this time with it sitting 500mm off the ground it was a shock to look down on it rather than over it , it looks so low
Will get it out of the garage as soon as this monsoon rain stops over here , get some photos and update my project thread .
Yep , went the day well.
Well , after 28 months my car is sitting on it's wheels again .
After getting the brakes bled and 100% operational I forged ahead and stage by stage brought it down on to the wheels .
I had to initially place the front and rear tyres on to wooden blocks to allow me to correctly tighten the front control arms and rear trailing arm bushes under load but she's down now.
After all this time with it sitting 500mm off the ground it was a shock to look down on it rather than over it , it looks so low
Will get it out of the garage as soon as this monsoon rain stops over here , get some photos and update my project thread .
Yep , went the day well.
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1659
- Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 2:58 pm
- Location: Cheltenham, U.K.
- hornhospital
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2940
- Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:46 pm
- Location: Silverhill, AL
- Contact:
I'm not sharkfan, but I I'm pretty sure he means the area ahead of the windshield, and below the hood vents, where the windshield wiper mechanism, etc. resides.sansouci wrote:Hey Sharkfan,
What's a "windscreen scuttle"?
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
the panel between the bonnet (hood) and the windscreen (windshield) is often known as the scuttle panel. The reason for this is that back in the day, that panel would look for all the world like a coal scuttle.sansouci wrote:Hey Sharkfan,
What's a "windscreen scuttle"?
To this day any (esp. open top) car that isn't stiff enough if often said to suffer from 'scuttle shake'.
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Today was a big and rough day completing three days of work.
My 87 M6 now has ...
1.) A new starter
2.) A new power steering pump
3.) A new alternator
4.) A new overflow tank
5.) New heater hoses - all three on the drivers side with new plastic t-fitting
6.) New stainless t-fittings for all the "burp" circuit hoses
7.) New breather and oil return hoses on the intake plenum
8.) All new hoses for the A/C and flushed oil in the compressor
9.) New, custom heat shield that works with the euro headers
Man .... am I beat. I'm very happy to finally have all that work done, though.
Jose
My 87 M6 now has ...
1.) A new starter
2.) A new power steering pump
3.) A new alternator
4.) A new overflow tank
5.) New heater hoses - all three on the drivers side with new plastic t-fitting
6.) New stainless t-fittings for all the "burp" circuit hoses
7.) New breather and oil return hoses on the intake plenum
8.) All new hoses for the A/C and flushed oil in the compressor
9.) New, custom heat shield that works with the euro headers
Man .... am I beat. I'm very happy to finally have all that work done, though.
Jose
1987 M6 - My dream car
I found stainless T-fittings and just coupled them with a small section of hose. I am running waterless coolant, so the system basically has no pressure. I am not worried at all about the extra connections. I have some of the T's left over too. I can put up a pic. if you want to see how it turned out.
I suppose that if I'm honest it's a good amount of both beat AND broke.
Jose
I suppose that if I'm honest it's a good amount of both beat AND broke.
Jose
1987 M6 - My dream car
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3728
- Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 3:24 pm
- Location: Gilroy (SF Bay Area) CA
New (rebuilt) brake MC!
Finally completed the replacement brake MC from Carl (thanks Carl ) and bled everything out last night
I bought this pressure bleeder from ECS Tuning, nice tool
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSea ... ES2774831/
I didn't use it "quite" the way they describe, which to fill the reservior with brake fluid and then pressurize and bleed
What I did was to fill the MC reservior, leave the bleeder dry and pressurize the system and then bleed. Sure, I had to remove the cap and refilll a few times, but at least I won't have to try and clean out the bleeder itself
Bleeding was SO easy
I did the clutch slave first, took maybe a minute
Anyhoo, done deal, hopefully good to go for another 35 years
PS: nice color, Carl
I bought this pressure bleeder from ECS Tuning, nice tool
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSea ... ES2774831/
I didn't use it "quite" the way they describe, which to fill the reservior with brake fluid and then pressurize and bleed
What I did was to fill the MC reservior, leave the bleeder dry and pressurize the system and then bleed. Sure, I had to remove the cap and refilll a few times, but at least I won't have to try and clean out the bleeder itself
Bleeding was SO easy
I did the clutch slave first, took maybe a minute
Anyhoo, done deal, hopefully good to go for another 35 years
PS: nice color, Carl
- Attachments
-
- Rrebult brake MC installed
- IMG_3090-sm.jpg (63.96 KiB) Viewed 7895 times
Bobbo
1980 633 CSi Cypress Green/Pearl Beige
2017 X5 M Sport Xdrive 35i Carbon Black/Ivory White
2005 330 Ci ZHP Cabrio Imola Red/Bone/Black
I've had a Motive Products bleeder for well over a decade and it's one of my most useful tools. But, like you, I haven't been using it in the conventional way. Problem is that the vinyl tubing of the bleeder is quite soluble in brake fluid, and several years ago, while bleeding the brakes on my 350Z, the hose ruptured and sprayed brake fluid all over the engine bay, underhood, and left front fender. Within minutes I was able to make up a big bucket of hot, soapy water and clean everything before any paint damage occurred. Contacted Motive, and they didn't seem interested in hearing about what happened, but a google search revealed this is a well-known issue.
So, for now, I'm using the bleeder just as an air pressure reservoir (just used it again on the Z last weekend), but have found that EDPM rubber tubing is insoluble in brake fluid and will change the tubing to that. Another option is to buy a 10-foot roll of vinyl tubing at Lowe's for ~$5 and change the tubing after each use.
So, for now, I'm using the bleeder just as an air pressure reservoir (just used it again on the Z last weekend), but have found that EDPM rubber tubing is insoluble in brake fluid and will change the tubing to that. Another option is to buy a 10-foot roll of vinyl tubing at Lowe's for ~$5 and change the tubing after each use.
Dean
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
Lutz, FL
'85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
'87 Spider Veloce
'92 Spider Veloce
'08 350Z
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3728
- Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 3:24 pm
- Location: Gilroy (SF Bay Area) CA
Wow, did not know that!
Glad I went the route that I did
I used to pressurize the system with a total Rube Goldberg, MC reservior cap from a VW, with a hole drilled in it that fit a football needle
Then I pressurized with a small compressor, running back and forth between the caliper I was bleeding and the compressor, to keep the pressure up
One time "something" blew out and brake fluid went everywhere
Think I'll just keep it dry
Also painted the front of the vacuum booster, here's the before and after
I used to pressurize the system with a total Rube Goldberg, MC reservior cap from a VW, with a hole drilled in it that fit a football needle
Then I pressurized with a small compressor, running back and forth between the caliper I was bleeding and the compressor, to keep the pressure up
One time "something" blew out and brake fluid went everywhere
Think I'll just keep it dry
Also painted the front of the vacuum booster, here's the before and after
- Attachments
-
- After
- IMG_3086-sm.jpg (56.63 KiB) Viewed 7880 times
-
- Before
- IMG_3078-sm.jpg (62.65 KiB) Viewed 7880 times
Bobbo
1980 633 CSi Cypress Green/Pearl Beige
2017 X5 M Sport Xdrive 35i Carbon Black/Ivory White
2005 330 Ci ZHP Cabrio Imola Red/Bone/Black
Discovered the intensive washer pump and main washer pump had seized - with my tools and spares packed up for an imminent house move I resorted to a very quick replumb and rewire to use the headlamp pump to run the windscreen washer jets.
2001 Alpina B10 V8 Touring (1 of 12 rhd)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)
1997 Alpina B12 5.7 L (1 of 2 rhd)
1995 Alpina B10 4.6 Touring (1 of 1 rhd)
1985 BMW M635CSi (1 of 524 rhd)
1982 BMW 635CSiA (1 of 100's left from the 1000's made and still valiantly fighting against a rusty grave)