Door Mechanism Repair - Interior Door Panel Removal & Ac

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shazbot996

Door Mechanism Repair - Interior Door Panel Removal & Ac

Post by shazbot996 »

Thanks to the suggestion of fellow forum-member M6smitten, I thought I'd post a write-up I did some time ago about repairing the door handle mechanism from inside the door. I hope some find it useful in their dutiful use of the "search" function before they post questions.

This write-up attempted to describe the door handle repair, but better describes just getting all the bits off the door to begin the work. In the end, I just replaced the broken door handle component which had broken, rendering the drivers door handle completely non-functional. The part that broke was an L-shaped bit with a roller on it... it transfers the pulling motion of the handle into the actual release mechanism. Realoem.com called this part a "stopper", which was completely misleading ;)

So, here is the write-up from my ancient wiki page: http://www.badmotorfinger.com/oldwiki/M ... ndleRepair

Step 1
Remove the Handle

Gingerly ply this little mirror switch out of the handle, taking care not to bung it up.
Image

Doing so will reveal a couple of phillips head screws inside that will release the top of the handle. This is a pic of one of them - the other is forward of this one (not the bolt pictured).
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You then have to just pull the top of door handle away from the door, or towards you, if you were sittin in the drivers seat. The point is to get the handle to angle inward pivoting at the base, to release the two forward hooks pictured here:
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At the same time you shoudl be pulling the handle forward as well, to release the rear two hooks that hold down the back, pictured here:
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This is the trickiest part, really, as these don't really want to come out cleanly without slightly bending the whole armrest. Apparently someone had over-flexed mine, as it had a lateral crack partway down the armrest... so be careful with this part.

OK! Armrest and door handle is now out, to reveal the screws that hold in the lower section of the door panel. Be sure to empty out the front pocket, else your stuff will fall out ;)
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Step 2
Remove the Lower Door Panel Section

This part is pretty straight forward. Three screws are plainly visible on the top part of this panel, which was revealed under the armrest, once removed. Pull these screws out:

Front Screws
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Rear Screw
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Once these are free, swing the panel inward in a door-closing motion. This pivots on a hook at the very front of the panel, which will come free once you swing the panel towards the center of the car, pictured here:
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The hook only comes free once the panel is about at this angle:
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Step 3
Remove the Middle Door Panel Section

First you have to remove the bezel around the inside door handle. Be careful with this, as this plastic can be brittle. Mine already was missing one of the four hooks that hold it in. Another one down would likely mean I would need to replace it.

The bezel simply slides backwards towards the rear of the car, pictured here:
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Slide it back, then pull it out:
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Again, watch those little feet:
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Then the panel is free to be popped out. It is simply held in by friction-fit pop fittings, so it should come out farily easily. I recommend beginning with the rear pop fitting pictured here:
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Then pull the front panel outward like this, loosening whatever pop fittings hold it in.
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Once loose, the panel should just slide out from the upper sill section:
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Step 4
Remove the Top Door Panel Section

The top section is simply held in by two screws, but the only trick is that it only really wants to come out with the door locked! But you have to have the door open to do it, also, and these doors don't let you lock them with them open. So you just have to lock it open by:

With the door open, just pop the lock retainer closed like this:
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Important! - Don't forget to OPEN this lock retainer before you try to slam the door shut in triumph. If you don't open it before you close the door, you will make a nasty, wincing BANG, and it will bounce back open. I don't know if this is bad for any parts, but anytime you make this sound on your beloved car, you will shudder. So save yourself the pain. ;)

Then it will let you lock the door shown here: Note, I took this pic with the door closed - it will work fine with the door open once you close this lock retainer.
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Then you can remove the front screw first, shown here:
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And the rear screw here:
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For my service, I didn't bother undoing the wiring to the top sill, rather just swung it down, and leaned it against the door as shown. And now you have access to anything accessible through the inside of the door! Window adjustments, door handle repairs (as I will continue below), or whatever you need to check out. Though truth be told, I didn't really need to remove this top part to get access to what I was working on... but just to be thorough, I did it.
Image

The Door Handle Mechanism

OK the following are two pictures to show you how the mechanism works:

First, with the handle in the closed postiion. Notice the somewhat jagged metal on the left of the chrome bit (the handle). That jagged metal is our broken internal linkage part.
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And when you pull the handle, you get a better shot of our broken bit.
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So I mangled my fingers in the little opening to get the retaining screw out, and pull out our metal bit. Turns out, it's counterpart had fallen to the bottom, a thing that I demonstrate in a very staged display below:
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Here is our broken assembly - a simple little lever that pops the door lock retainer open when you pull the handle. Takes a bit of repetetive strain, though, and I'm surprised the used a brittle cast part for this:
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Here is what it should look like:
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Sorry I didn't do a better job of photographing the actual mechanism to show what this part does. You might be able to discern that the bolt on this actually directly bolts onto the handle mechanism, and is designed to transfer the door-pull force into the actual release mechanism. So it sees a bit of strain, and I'd think this break might be rather common.

As I said... this is mostly helpful for the disassembly part, as I didn't take pics when I got the new part and put it back together. I actually tried to J-B weld this, which was completely idiotic. So to quote the Haynes Manual approach... "Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure"

I hope this helps someone!
ec89sixer

Post by ec89sixer »

GREAT write-up and very timely. I'm going into my pass door next weekend to lubricate everything. Thank you!
shazbot996

Post by shazbot996 »

Glad it can help!

I wonder if anyone knows how necessary the plastic lining which covers the works? Mine is still all torn up as pictured, and I was wondering what the opinion is on maintaining this apparent vapor barrier? There's not really any way to service the parts without tearing it up. Should I be concerned about repairing it?
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Post by ron »

shazbot996 wrote:Glad it can help!

I wonder if anyone knows how necessary the plastic lining which covers the works? Mine is still all torn up as pictured, and I was wondering what the opinion is on maintaining this apparent vapor barrier? There's not really any way to service the parts without tearing it up. Should I be concerned about repairing it?
If it rains in your part of the world then you need the barrier!!

It's easy to replace with some sticky-backed clear Fablon or similar.

Someone will no doubt come in with a supplier.
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Chris Wright

Post by Chris Wright »

Great write-up, great Photo's !!

The only thing that puzzled me was the requirement to lock the door to get the top panel piece off? I know I didn't have to do that, I believe I just unscrewed the straight plastic knob on the top end of the locking rod sticking up through the panel:

Image
shazbot996

Post by shazbot996 »

Chris Wright wrote:Great write-up, great Photo's !!

The only thing that puzzled me was the requirement to lock the door to get the top panel piece off? I know I didn't have to do that, I believe I just unscrewed the straight plastic knob on the top end of the locking rod sticking up through the panel:
Hah. :oops: I'm guessing that I didn't think of that. I recall that I tried to unscrew it, but wasn't sure if it actually unscrewed or not! So it proved stubborn enough that I didn't want to risk damaging it, so I did it this way. Glad to hear this advice!!

I wonder if I can use some window winter-insulation kit to replace this plastic? They sell kits that come with heat-shrinking plastic sheeting to insulate windows in the winter... it might prove nice to cover this, and heat shrink tight?
Chris Wright

Post by Chris Wright »

shazbot996 wrote:
Chris Wright wrote: I wonder if I can use some window winter-insulation kit to replace this plastic? They sell kits that come with heat-shrinking plastic sheeting to insulate windows in the winter... it might prove nice to cover this, and heat shrink tight?
Hmmm .... Not a bad idea and they make a lighter (indoor), and heaver (outdoor) film too.
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Post by jumbee »

When I did the door of my E30 I used a heavy gauge clear plastic bag and stuck it to the door with butyl tape that is used when replacing windshields. Its sticky, waterproof and can be removed when necessary.
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Post by Masked Man »

Outstanding writeup, Shazbot! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

Keep the shiny side up

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Post by bpoliakoff »

I wonder if I can use some window winter-insulation kit to replace this plastic? They sell kits that come with heat-shrinking plastic sheeting to insulate windows in the winter... it might prove nice to cover this, and heat shrink tight?[/quote]

I went to an upholstery supply store. They sell it by the yard in varying degrees of thickness. I think 2 yards did the front doors and rear area, with a bunch left over. A little contact cement, a sharp razor blade, and it was done
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Re: Door Mechanism Repair - Interior Door Panel Removal & Ac

Post by gte619n »

Any chance this exists somewhere else? I'm about to tackle this job and would love to have the pictures!

Thanks,

E
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Re: Door Mechanism Repair - Interior Door Panel Removal & Ac

Post by bpoliakoff »

Use clear self sticking Contact paper it can pretty easily be removed from metal
81 Euro 635 M90 with motronic. Currently under a complete nut and bolt restoration. Pictures at
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