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1984 633CSi Rises again!

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Jubilados
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by Jubilados » Wed Jun 16, 2021 2:14 am

Wow, I just read all 34 pages start to finish. That was quite a journey!
Your car looks great!

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Sat Jun 19, 2021 10:21 pm

Jubilados wrote:
Wed Jun 16, 2021 2:14 am
Wow, I just read all 34 pages start to finish. That was quite a journey!
Your car looks great!
LOL, thanks. The car was to be my daily driver and I was determined to make it reliable. I've put 50,000+ miles on the car since I got it. There are a few annoying things here and there, but I wouldn't hesitate to take it anywhere. All major systems have been gone over. The only things now are cosmetic.

===< addendum >===

After re-reading this last post, I paused and knocked on wood.
Every time I say things are looking good, something breaks in the next few days. Lol!
OK, hoping it's different this time.
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by Jubilados » Sun Jun 20, 2021 2:06 pm

If you haven’t redone the scratch in the sunroof yet, the easy (and correct) way to do it is lightly sand the whole thing down with 800-1000 grit. Apply base coat color to the damaged area, blend it in to the rest with your detail gun. Then shoot a couple coats of clear over the whole thing.
Because of the gap between the sunroof and the sunroof seal, you can get a good result doing this on the car.

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Sun Jun 20, 2021 7:04 pm

Jubilados wrote:
Sun Jun 20, 2021 2:06 pm
If you haven’t redone the scratch in the sunroof yet, the easy (and correct) way to do it is lightly sand the whole thing down with 800-1000 grit. Apply base coat color to the damaged area, blend it in to the rest with your detail gun. Then shoot a couple coats of clear over the whole thing.
Because of the gap between the sunroof and the sunroof seal, you can get a good result doing this on the car.
Yes, I was aware of the best way to do this and would have done so if I had enough paint. The issue was I only had a few tablespoons of color coat left after doing the front airdam, roof (including sunroof) and the quarter panel. Another batch of paint was going to be $300 and I didn't want to mess with that. My next paint project is going to be the red family Volvo wagon.

Now it looks like the hood clear coat is failing on the e24. What a pain dealing with the previous owners cheap paint job.
On my "to do" list is the muffler. The quick fix I applied years ago is holding up, but it's been bugging me.
I keep wondering if anyone had been able to make this Walker kit work: https://www.autopartskart.com/sku/wk476 ... VUQAvD_BwE
It says it's for 1985-1988 and mine is an 84, but it sure looks similar.

Thanks for the tip.
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by Jubilados » Sun Jun 20, 2021 8:06 pm

Ah, I see.
I don’t recall what kind of paint you used, but $300 for a little bit of base coat is steep. You might want to try some other suppliers. Half a pint of color matched base coat is around $50 at my local shop in So Cal.

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by CSGuy » Sat Jun 26, 2021 6:30 pm

songzunhuang wrote:
Sun Jun 20, 2021 7:04 pm
Jubilados wrote:
Sun Jun 20, 2021 2:06 pm
Now it looks like the hood clear coat is failing on the e24. What a pain dealing with the previous owners cheap paint job.
On my "to do" list is the muffler. The quick fix I applied years ago is holding up, but it's been bugging me.
I keep wondering if anyone had been able to make this Walker kit work: https://www.autopartskart.com/sku/wk476 ... VUQAvD_BwE
It says it's for 1985-1988 and mine is an 84, but it sure looks similar.

Thanks for the tip.
I think the hangers may be different. do the part numbers match up on realoem.com

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A side project - the family V70

Post by songzunhuang » Tue Aug 24, 2021 6:15 am

If you look above a few posts, you'll see that my next project was the paint on the family Volvo V70.
Well, in case you are curious here's a link to a few pictures i posted on the Volvo site. That project is done.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... =1&t=98042

The e24 is still doing well. I just drive it.
I am bothered more and more by the leather on the seats. The seams are splitting. It may be time to think about new leather. Maybe.
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by hornhospital » Tue Aug 24, 2021 4:35 pm

Look at zoomzoomzoom-ing on ebay. If you can DIY the removal and replacement of the covers (and with everything else you've done, I'm certain of it!) you can have very nice OEM-appearing covers for relatively little money. Such as:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-635CSI-E24 ... 632-2357-0

Have you tried Leatherique on your seats? It won't fix the split seams, but it is incredible on dried out leather. Get the leather reconditioned sufficiently and an upholstery shop may be able to restitch the seams, but will likely cost as much as new covers.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann";'87 325is "Odette"; '93 325is "Elvira"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"; '95 318is "Bebe"

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by bpoliakoff » Tue Aug 24, 2021 7:46 pm

What ever upholstery you buy, make sure the amount of pleats sewn in are a match to yours. They differ between comfort seats, Recarros and BMW sport seats. 7 pleats on the Recarros, 5 on the BMW sport seats and I am not sure about the comfort seats. Also check out GAHH for upholstery kits. They make a high end product. Pleats are per cushion and the same on the backs
81 Euro 635 M90 with motronic. Currently under a complete nut and bolt restoration. Pictures at
flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos.

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Thu Aug 26, 2021 10:00 pm

hornhospital wrote:
Tue Aug 24, 2021 4:35 pm
Look at zoomzoomzoom-ing on ebay. If you can DIY the removal and replacement of the covers (and with everything else you've done, I'm certain of it!) you can have very nice OEM-appearing covers for relatively little money. Such as:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-635CSI-E24 ... 632-2357-0

Have you tried Leatherique on your seats? It won't fix the split seams, but it is incredible on dried out leather. Get the leather reconditioned sufficiently and an upholstery shop may be able to restitch the seams, but will likely cost as much as new covers.
Yea, I've tried all manner of leather reconditioners. I put so much stuff on the seats that my windows have a greasy coating on the inside that I am constantly wiping down. I could probably get away with one more seam repair to hold off the inevitable, but I'd know it was temporary.

I also have looked at LSeat. They have sets for $399 front. Last time I looked, they didn't have back seats yet.
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Thu Aug 26, 2021 10:36 pm

bpoliakoff wrote:
Tue Aug 24, 2021 7:46 pm
What ever upholstery you buy, make sure the amount of pleats sewn in are a match to yours. They differ between comfort seats, Recarros and BMW sport seats. 7 pleats on the Recarros, 5 on the BMW sport seats and I am not sure about the comfort seats. Also check out GAHH for upholstery kits. They make a high end product. Pleats are per cushion and the same on the backs
Yes, I have noticed that. I have also noticed that some cover have a plastic piping along the seams (like mine) and some do not. So there are several things to keep in mind. When I asked the folks at L-Seat (https://www.lseat.com/) a few years back, they didn't have e24 covers. They offered me a screaming deal if I would take off my covers and send to them as a template. I think they said that they'd sell me replacement for $150 or something like that. Alas, I was using the car as a daily and didn't want to be left for weeks without seats.

I notice that they do have e24 covers now! (https://www.lseat.com/products/1978-198 ... front.html). My car falls into the year range listed, but as you indicate, the pleats do not match. Also there's no piping. Also looks like it's $349 for a front set. Still interesting. Thee one they list for an earlier year looks to fit my car better. (https://www.lseat.com/products/1976-198 ... front.html)

One day, I have a feeling I'll pull the trigger on this. For now, I just spent $450 on paint for the Volvo. I need to hold off a bit before this. It's not an emergency yet. Just an eyesore.
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by Doctorbeer » Tue Aug 31, 2021 2:24 am

songzunhuang wrote:
Thu Aug 26, 2021 10:36 pm
bpoliakoff wrote:
Tue Aug 24, 2021 7:46 pm
What ever upholstery you buy, make sure the amount of pleats sewn in are a match to yours. They differ between comfort seats, Recarros and BMW sport seats. 7 pleats on the Recarros, 5 on the BMW sport seats and I am not sure about the comfort seats. Also check out GAHH for upholstery kits. They make a high end product. Pleats are per cushion and the same on the backs
Yes, I have noticed that. I have also noticed that some cover have a plastic piping along the seams (like mine) and some do not. So there are several things to keep in mind. When I asked the folks at L-Seat (https://www.lseat.com/) a few years back, they didn't have e24 covers. They offered me a screaming deal if I would take off my covers and send to them as a template. I think they said that they'd sell me replacement for $150 or something like that. Alas, I was using the car as a daily and didn't want to be left for weeks without seats.

I notice that they do have e24 covers now! (https://www.lseat.com/products/1978-198 ... front.html). My car falls into the year range listed, but as you indicate, the pleats do not match. Also there's no piping. Also looks like it's $349 for a front set. Still interesting. Thee one they list for an earlier year looks to fit my car better. (https://www.lseat.com/products/1976-198 ... front.html)

One day, I have a feeling I'll pull the trigger on this. For now, I just spent $450 on paint for the Volvo. I need to hold off a bit before this. It's not an emergency yet. Just an eyesore.
Oh wow, those do look nice. They do have a option for piping as well. I am eyeing the rears more than the front, though they all need to be redone, the rear seats have that heavy old car smell I have never been able to get rid of since getting the car. I think it's the foam within them that is spoiled. If you do end up buying them, take lots and lots of photos please. :D

Thanks, for the link.
1984 633i Auto

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Poly Alternator Bushings

Post by songzunhuang » Wed Sep 01, 2021 6:15 am

So I noticed that my alternator is cocked at a weird angle and not on the same plane as the pulley for the cooling fan. About a year ago I took it to a shop who claimed to have fixed this with a new bushing. Well, a few months ago I noticed that the alternator is cocked funny again. Surely a bushing would last for more than a year? Looking into this, I discover that there are 4 bushings. I think they only replaced one. Hmm, time to fix this for good.

I searched and found someone who was selling some red polyurethane bushings. Perfect. So today I decided to replace the bushings and set everything right again. It took about 2 hours to complete this.

First, here's the 4 bushing next to the alternator. Getting the alternator out of the car was a bit trickier than I thought it would be. It seemed easy since there's space around it, but some of the nuts are in odd places to access and the lower bolt that the alternator pivots on is hard get get out without removing the fan shroud. Anyway, after a few choice words, I was at this point.
The kit.png
All the bits ready to go.
The kit.png (1.77 MiB) Viewed 701 times
Now, this is one of the times I wish I had a hydraulic press. In a pinch, this worked pretty well. Use a large socket on the other side so that the sleeve for the bolt has something to go into while the clamp presses it through.
Vise it.png
I wish I had a hydraulic press. This will have to do.
Vise it.png (1.85 MiB) Viewed 701 times
On minor issue. I couldn't get the thin washers on before I put the retaining c-clips at the rear of the bolt sleeve. The grooves for the c-clip would be covered if I put the washers on. I am hoping that this is all so tightly press fitted that this won't be an issue.
Alt side.png
Couldn't get the washers and the C-clips on.
Alt side.png (1.18 MiB) Viewed 701 times
Finally a view from the back after the new bushings are on. Final step was to get the alternator back in the car, complete with a few choice swear words as those tricky bolts (lower alternator pivot) were no easier to put on than to take off.
Alt rear.png
View from the back.
Alt rear.png (1.05 MiB) Viewed 701 times
So that's it. My alternator is nice and straight again. Hopefully it'll last a really long time. The poly bushing were all of $26 bucks.
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by rhanley 635csi89 » Wed Sep 01, 2021 10:46 am

Hi Song, as usual you did a great job with well documentation. Please post were you purchased the "red polyurethane bushings". Roger
89 635CSiA (11/88 build)
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Thu Sep 02, 2021 2:08 am

rhanley 635csi89 wrote:
Wed Sep 01, 2021 10:46 am
Hi Song, as usual you did a great job with well documentation. Please post were you purchased the "red polyurethane bushings". Roger
I purchased these from an eBay seller. https://www.ebay.com/itm/301776435368
It was surprisingly hard to find red ones. Most of the ones for sale were blue. I wanted red to match the fan and the ground strap. :wink:

This morning I fired up the car and checked the install before I drove off. It's nice and straight.
I don't know if it's related, but sometimes I'd get a glowing alternator light in my dash untilI revv'd up the engine. That seems to have gone away now. I'll keep an eye and see if it stays away.
Crooked Alternator.JPG
The before and after with the bushings.
Crooked Alternator.JPG (90.66 KiB) Viewed 613 times
Last edited by songzunhuang on Tue Sep 07, 2021 5:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by GRNSHRK » Thu Sep 02, 2021 2:49 am

Song, any chance you took a look at the brushes on the voltage regulator :-k

Here's a pic, this takes just a few minutes to check [-o<
:mrgreen:
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by GRNSHRK » Thu Sep 02, 2021 2:49 am

Song, any chance you took a look at the brushes on the voltage regulator :-k

Here's a pic, this takes just a few minutes to check [-o<
Attachments
Voltage regulator.JPG
Voltage regulator.JPG (560.67 KiB) Viewed 666 times
:mrgreen:
Bobbo
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2017 X5 M Sport Xdrive 35i Carbon Black/Ivory White
2005 330 Ci ZHP Cabrio Imola Red/Bone/Black
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Thu Sep 02, 2021 6:07 am

GRNSHRK wrote:
Thu Sep 02, 2021 2:49 am
Song, any chance you took a look at the brushes on the voltage regulator :-k

Here's a pic, this takes just a few minutes to check [-o<
Why yes, I have thought of that part and I already have a new one coming. Mine may be fine, but I figured it can't hurt to refresh it. Preventive maintenance I tell myself. Thanks.
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Voltage Regulator Compare: Bosch vs. KAE

Post by songzunhuang » Fri Sep 10, 2021 6:00 am

My new KAE (Kahler Automotive) voltage regulator came in today. It's a made in Germany part that I got from FCP Euro. Part # KAE 3523710. It's got a lifetime warranty. The original part was a Bosch. The KAE was $28 while everyone wanted about $45-50 for the Bosch. I thought I would refresh my regulator and see if anything changed.

First order of business was some measurements with the Bosch. My nominal voltage at the battery terminals with the engine off was 12.14v. With the engine running around 1,800rpm it was about 14.23v. There's actually no sign of any issues.

The interesting thing happened when I took off the Bosch and compared it to the KAE. They are constructed very differently. Let me explain with accompanying photos.

In pane 1, you can see the Bosch has much clearer markings.The KAE has all the info molded into the black plastic cover. The Bosch is metal and painted. The Bosch assembly also has less height than the KAE. You can also see clearly the wear that the where the two conducting legs contacts the rotor of the alternator. It looks to be very even wear on each.

In pane 2, you can see the much heftier construction of the Bosch unit. Also, the white portion of the Bosch looks like a ceramic while the KAE is clearly a high impact and heat resistant plastic.

In panes 3 & 4, you can see how much beefier the construction of the Bosch unit is. The metal contacts and the solder joints just look a lot more substantial in the Bosch. Perhaps electronics advanced a ton in 30 years and materials are better so they can use less? If I had to do this again, maybe I would just get another Bosch.
Voltage Reg compare.png
Bosch vs KAE
Voltage Reg compare.png (1.16 MiB) Viewed 566 times
Peeking inside the alternator with the regulator out, you can see where contact on the rotor is made. Also there seems to be a contact point (spring metal with a shiny spot) at another point. Funny thing is that that regulators have a different way to make that contact. Go back up and look at the left side of of each regulator in panes 3 & 4 and you can see what I mean.
Inside the alternator.png
A look inside.
Inside the alternator.png (1.06 MiB) Viewed 566 times
So after I installed the KAE, this is what it looks like.
New Regulator installed.png
Regulator installed on the alternator.
New Regulator installed.png (1.33 MiB) Viewed 566 times
Finally, I did the test again to see the voltages. The results when running at 1,800rpm is a slightly higher voltage at 14.38v, but nothing startling.
Voltage compare.png
Voltage at Nominal and at 1,800 rpm
Voltage compare.png (1 MiB) Viewed 566 times
The actual replacement of the regulator takes less than 10 minutes. It's a super easy job. So, in conclusion I don't think my regulator was bad. It was worn, but still working. The voltage at 1,800rpm between the Bosch (14.23v) and KAE (14.38v) was only a 0.15 volt difference. I'll see if I notice anything in the days ahead and report back.
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by RossDinan6 » Fri Sep 10, 2021 10:42 pm

You won't notice anything in day to day operation with that small voltage differential. Where you may notice it is in the life of the battery. Battery technology has changed in the time since our cars were built. Modern batteries want to be charged at a higher voltage.

I fought that issue for a long time, and none of the various regulators I tried would get over 14 volts (well except for the adjustable internet one that had voltage spikes when data logged). My "guy" at the motor/alternator shop came up with one that worked. Unfortunately China built, we'll see how long it lasts.

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Temp & Fuel Gauge fix, Gear Indicator, kick panel stiffening

Post by songzunhuang » Mon Sep 13, 2021 5:14 am

Today, I took care of a handful of things that have been bugging me.

Temp and Fuel Gauge:
The biggest one was the erratic behavior of my temp and fuel gauge over the past 6 years! They would get all "jumpy" and sometimes when I tapped the instrument cluster, they would bounce about. Also my fuel gauge has never been accurate and I have been chasing that for ages! I even bought a new sender, even though my old sender tested just fine. Well, I think I may have found the culprit. It was a bad connection where the posts (2 for each gauge) connect to the circuit board. I didn't know how to disassemble this before but I saw a video on YouTube and decided to go for it. I am sure glad I did!

Basically the temp and fuel gauge assembly is secured by 2 nuts and washers that also serve as a ground to the electrical system. In the past I wasn't sure about how they were fastened and didn't want to risk breaking the gauges. I though that jumpy gauges were better than broken gauges. Anyhow, after you remove the nuts you can push on the posts and the gauges will come out as a set. Then I took some fine sandpaper and cleaned up the posts followed by some electrical cleaner before reassembly. I went for a test drive this evening and it was amazing! I think my gauges are correct now and they don't jump around at all! =D>

One annoying thing is that I tried to "adjust" my fuel gauge needle once. It would always show full then I know the tank wasn't. So a while ago when I had the cluster open, I manually moved the fuel gauge needle counterclockwise about 1/4 tank's worth of sweep. Now that my gauge appears correct, when I filled up the tank, it shows 3/4. Ahhh! Oh well, this will be something for another day. I didn't want to take it all apart again.
Temp and Fuel.png
Cleaning up the contacts for the temp and fuel gauge.
Temp and Fuel.png (1.3 MiB) Viewed 341 times
Gear Indicator Lights:
Two bulbs burnt out and I had to once again go into the cluster to remove the light bar assembly and remove the bad bulbs. Luckily I had a spare unti lying around and harvested some bulbs from it. This wasn't so hard, just some soldering skills. I used a solder removing braid to take off the old solder. I also used a flat tip on the soldering iron the melt the plastic posts in order to separate the plastic cover from the PC board.
Gear Indicator lights.png
Replacing a few burn bulbs.
Gear Indicator lights.png (1015.17 KiB) Viewed 341 times
Freshening up the paint on the cluster:
This was completely cosmetic, but I figured why not? Since the cluster was open, it was due for a nice polish and painting. I used flat black enamel to freshen up one end of the gauge needles. I also refreshed the surround of the entire instrument cluster. The old paint was so unstable that I could wipe it off with a moist paper towel! The cluster looked really nice afterwards. I'd been staring at a dirty cluster with bare paint spots for too long!
Cluster paint.png
Refreshing the cluster paint.
Cluster paint.png (1.46 MiB) Viewed 341 times
Driver Under Dash Panel Falling:
Have you noticed that the cardboard paper panel under the dash on the driver's side no longer stays in place but sometimes droops and contacts your feet? There's a metal clip that the panel is supposed to slip into on the firewall above the brake pedal but the panel has bent over the past 36 years and is curved so much that the panel no longer fits in the slot. How do we get the panel flatter so that it'll once again fit in the slot? After scratching my head for a while, I had an idea. I used flexible galvanized plumber's tape. I epoxied it to the cardboard, clamping it while the epoxy set. At the ends, the cardboard failed and a layer tore off, so I glues it again but installed a metal clip for good measure (lower right picture). In the pictures below, the red lines show where the galvanized metal plumber's tape is located. Thee fit is good and you can hardly see it. In the end, it worked well. I can bend the tape to shape and it's stiff enough to hold the panel to the right shape. No more panel droop and touching my feet.
Panel Droop fix.png
Drive footwell panel droop fix.
Panel Droop fix.png (1.15 MiB) Viewed 341 times
So that was the summary of the details I fixed on the car today. I keep a running list of things I notice when I am driving my car. I use the Notes app on my iPhone. It takes me a while to ponder the solution and then I take care of them when the opportunity arises. It seems this car alway needs some kind of attention. That what makes it fun right?
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by GRNSHRK » Mon Sep 13, 2021 4:46 pm

Nice job Song, since I've recently been in there, I can say BTDT =D>

My series one setup is completely different, obviously, but took it to another level by removing the clear plastic cover and flocking the inside of my cluster \:D/

There's a link somewhere in the "Interior" forum :-"
:mrgreen:
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2017 X5 M Sport Xdrive 35i Carbon Black/Ivory White
2005 330 Ci ZHP Cabrio Imola Red/Bone/Black
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by Jubilados » Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:37 am

Hi, I’m going to be doing the AC compressor soon (Sanden 508).
I’ve read this and other threads, very helpful.
One question, was this stock adjustment bolt long enough to work with the adapter brackets?
The bracket circled in the pic seems to add a decent amount of width. Looking at my stock bolt, it doesn’t seem like it’s going to be long enough.
88AF2376-31B6-41C6-8B3F-A669DC420FAF.jpeg
88AF2376-31B6-41C6-8B3F-A669DC420FAF.jpeg (1.78 MiB) Viewed 237 times

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86_6series
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by 86_6series » Wed Sep 15, 2021 11:23 am


songzunhuang
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang » Mon Sep 20, 2021 3:08 am

Jubilados wrote:
Wed Sep 15, 2021 3:37 am
Hi, I’m going to be doing the AC compressor soon (Sanden 508).
I’ve read this and other threads, very helpful.
One question, was this stock adjustment bolt long enough to work with the adapter brackets?
The bracket circled in the pic seems to add a decent amount of width. Looking at my stock bolt, it doesn’t seem like it’s going to be long enough.

88AF2376-31B6-41C6-8B3F-A669DC420FAF.jpeg
I don't recall if I had to get a new bolt there or if I used the stock bolt. I do know that I had to get quite a few long bolts while I was doing that A/C project all those years ago. They shouldn't be too hard to source. Sorry I couldn't be more help there.
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Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383

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