Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
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Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
@mdkohler
Hello, I am planning on converting my auto 81 Euro 635csi to a 5 speed manual and would potentially interested in the 5 speed transmission, some clutch parts and the flywheel. If you could send me the part number for the transmission and the weight of the flywheel, I would appreciate it.
Hello, I am planning on converting my auto 81 Euro 635csi to a 5 speed manual and would potentially interested in the 5 speed transmission, some clutch parts and the flywheel. If you could send me the part number for the transmission and the weight of the flywheel, I would appreciate it.
1952 Austin Sheerline Limo
1960 Studebaker Lark
1963 Chrysler 300J
1963 Studebaker Avanti R2
1964 Jensen CV8 Mk2
1970 AMC Rebel Machine
1972 BMW Bavaria
1981 BMW Euro 635CSI
1989 Chrysler Conquest
2001 Honda Insight
1960 Studebaker Lark
1963 Chrysler 300J
1963 Studebaker Avanti R2
1964 Jensen CV8 Mk2
1970 AMC Rebel Machine
1972 BMW Bavaria
1981 BMW Euro 635CSI
1989 Chrysler Conquest
2001 Honda Insight
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- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sat Nov 16, 2019 10:29 pm
- Location: Los Angeles
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Regenerative braking is the isht. Some people in the forum of my DD, gen1 Honda Insight, have NEVER changed their rear brakes, even after hundreds of thousands of miles.
1952 Austin Sheerline Limo
1960 Studebaker Lark
1963 Chrysler 300J
1963 Studebaker Avanti R2
1964 Jensen CV8 Mk2
1970 AMC Rebel Machine
1972 BMW Bavaria
1981 BMW Euro 635CSI
1989 Chrysler Conquest
2001 Honda Insight
1960 Studebaker Lark
1963 Chrysler 300J
1963 Studebaker Avanti R2
1964 Jensen CV8 Mk2
1970 AMC Rebel Machine
1972 BMW Bavaria
1981 BMW Euro 635CSI
1989 Chrysler Conquest
2001 Honda Insight
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Indeed it is, I never had to replace the brake pads (front or rear) on my 2009 Prius even after 180k miles!Quietlion79 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 27, 2019 4:35 pm Regenerative braking is the isht. Some people in the forum of my DD, gen1 Honda Insight, have NEVER changed their rear brakes, even after hundreds of thousands of miles.
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
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- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sat Nov 16, 2019 10:29 pm
- Location: Los Angeles
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Now THAT is impressive. You got SKILLZ, son!!!
1952 Austin Sheerline Limo
1960 Studebaker Lark
1963 Chrysler 300J
1963 Studebaker Avanti R2
1964 Jensen CV8 Mk2
1970 AMC Rebel Machine
1972 BMW Bavaria
1981 BMW Euro 635CSI
1989 Chrysler Conquest
2001 Honda Insight
1960 Studebaker Lark
1963 Chrysler 300J
1963 Studebaker Avanti R2
1964 Jensen CV8 Mk2
1970 AMC Rebel Machine
1972 BMW Bavaria
1981 BMW Euro 635CSI
1989 Chrysler Conquest
2001 Honda Insight
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
With any EV conversion, one must have three things. A good donor car, buckets of cash (or credit), and loads of patience. So far I have 2 out of 3.
After weeks of planning, I’ve begun ordering the necessary components to convert my 1985 BMW 635CSi into an electric vehicle for commuting to work.
So far I have received the DC-DC converter, charger, electric Air Conditioner compressor, motor & controller. Some of these items may sound familiar to you, some may not.
I thought I would give a brief overview of what these components are and why I chose them.
DC-DC converter: As the name implies, it is a device that steps down 144VDC down to 12VDC voltage. This provides 12V (up to 70A) throughout the car, running lights, radio, wipers, etc., while drawing its original power from the 144V battery pack. It effectively replaces the alternator which supplies 12V to the car while the car is running.
And since I no longer need a heavy lead acid battery to start the engine, I can replace the current 35lb unit with a small 2lb 12V li-ion battery, as it is only needed to close the main contactor when I turn the key switch, then the DC-DC converter takes over.
I purchased a charger, which takes 120-240VAC input and converts it to 144VDC output (programmable output to the battery pack's charging algorithm). It is rated for 3.3kW, but can be paralleled with another charger to decrease the charging time. That will come in Phase II of the conversion.
It’s air cooled so that I don’t have to worry about running coolant lines to radiators, and has a high ingress protection rating, IP67, such that I can place it under the trunk (where the gas tank used to be) so that it can easily get rid of any heat that it generates.
It automatically adjusts it’s output current based on the input voltage. This way I can charge from any standard wall plug (1.2kW) or any public charging station (up to 6kW).
Because Texas is HOT most of the time, I definitely will need to maintain the air conditioner. I could have used a pulley system to attach the existing A/C compressor to the tail shaft of the motor, but I would have had to keep the motor spinning even when not moving (like an engine that idles). Rather, I chose a high voltage air compressor that will run off of the main battery pack, which I feel is a much more elegant solution and more efficient overall. It’s also about 1/3 smaller and ½ the weight of the original.
And finally, we get to the heart of the conversion, the 144V motor and 500A controller, good for ~85kW and 220Nm of torque (0-3800 rpm). It is 9” in diameter, 13” long and weighs 120lbs (55kg). It is also air-cooled for simplicity and can be paralleled with another to double the power of the car. Wallet is placed as a reference for size.
The adapter plate is on order which will mate this motor to my 5-speed transmission. I'll upload pictures of it when it is finished. When that is ready it will be time to remove the engine, gas tank, and exhaust system from the car (no turning back after that!).
After weeks of planning, I’ve begun ordering the necessary components to convert my 1985 BMW 635CSi into an electric vehicle for commuting to work.
So far I have received the DC-DC converter, charger, electric Air Conditioner compressor, motor & controller. Some of these items may sound familiar to you, some may not.
I thought I would give a brief overview of what these components are and why I chose them.
DC-DC converter: As the name implies, it is a device that steps down 144VDC down to 12VDC voltage. This provides 12V (up to 70A) throughout the car, running lights, radio, wipers, etc., while drawing its original power from the 144V battery pack. It effectively replaces the alternator which supplies 12V to the car while the car is running.
And since I no longer need a heavy lead acid battery to start the engine, I can replace the current 35lb unit with a small 2lb 12V li-ion battery, as it is only needed to close the main contactor when I turn the key switch, then the DC-DC converter takes over.
I purchased a charger, which takes 120-240VAC input and converts it to 144VDC output (programmable output to the battery pack's charging algorithm). It is rated for 3.3kW, but can be paralleled with another charger to decrease the charging time. That will come in Phase II of the conversion.
It’s air cooled so that I don’t have to worry about running coolant lines to radiators, and has a high ingress protection rating, IP67, such that I can place it under the trunk (where the gas tank used to be) so that it can easily get rid of any heat that it generates.
It automatically adjusts it’s output current based on the input voltage. This way I can charge from any standard wall plug (1.2kW) or any public charging station (up to 6kW).
Because Texas is HOT most of the time, I definitely will need to maintain the air conditioner. I could have used a pulley system to attach the existing A/C compressor to the tail shaft of the motor, but I would have had to keep the motor spinning even when not moving (like an engine that idles). Rather, I chose a high voltage air compressor that will run off of the main battery pack, which I feel is a much more elegant solution and more efficient overall. It’s also about 1/3 smaller and ½ the weight of the original.
And finally, we get to the heart of the conversion, the 144V motor and 500A controller, good for ~85kW and 220Nm of torque (0-3800 rpm). It is 9” in diameter, 13” long and weighs 120lbs (55kg). It is also air-cooled for simplicity and can be paralleled with another to double the power of the car. Wallet is placed as a reference for size.
The adapter plate is on order which will mate this motor to my 5-speed transmission. I'll upload pictures of it when it is finished. When that is ready it will be time to remove the engine, gas tank, and exhaust system from the car (no turning back after that!).
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
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Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Wow, that some serious stuff.
Did I understand this correctly in that you'll be mating the electric motor to a manual 5 speed tranny?
Almost all electric cars seem to be direct drive (a la Tesla) or come kinda CV, which I don't think exists for a e24.
This will be a very interesting thing to follow. Thanks for being the trail-blazer.
Did I understand this correctly in that you'll be mating the electric motor to a manual 5 speed tranny?
Almost all electric cars seem to be direct drive (a la Tesla) or come kinda CV, which I don't think exists for a e24.
This will be a very interesting thing to follow. Thanks for being the trail-blazer.
-----
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
True, most EV's use a single ~9:1 gear reduction. I could put mine in 3rd gear and simply drive it like an automatic if I wanted to. But since I have the gears, why not use them for some additional torque down low? The original Tesla Roadster was designed to have a two-speed gearbox, 1st gear to meet desired 0-60 time, and 2nd gear to reach designed top speed. However, by increasing the rpm of the motor and current it could accept, they were able to meet both with a single gear reduction. The motor that I am using only goes to 8k rpm, not 12-14k like the Tesla, so I would need to use 2nd gear for decent 0-40 mph acceleration and 3rd gear as a 40-80 mph highway gear.songzunhuang wrote: ↑Mon Jan 27, 2020 6:24 pm Wow, that some serious stuff.
Did I understand this correctly in that you'll be mating the electric motor to a manual 5 speed tranny?
Almost all electric cars seem to be direct drive (a la Tesla) or come kinda CV, which I don't think exists for a e24.
This will be a very interesting thing to follow. Thanks for being the trail-blazer.
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Does anyone know what items require vacuum from the engine? In most cars, vacuum helps with brakes, but since the E24 uses the power steering fluid in combination with the brake bomb for assist, it seems that vacuum may only be needed for engine specific items (which I won't need after the conversion). But now I'm wondering if there are vacuum lines that go into the dash to help with the HVAC system and/or vent controls. I can include a 12V vacuum pump with small reservoir to the electric conversion, but I'd rather not if I don't have to.
Can anyone help me out with what vacuum lines exist that are not related to the engine?
(irrelevant fact: my 1985 VW Quantum used vacuum lines to operate the door locks. Very fluid movement compared to the typical electrical thump)
Can anyone help me out with what vacuum lines exist that are not related to the engine?
(irrelevant fact: my 1985 VW Quantum used vacuum lines to operate the door locks. Very fluid movement compared to the typical electrical thump)
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
- hornhospital
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Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
The interior temperature sensor mounted above the driver's footwell (on LHD cars) uses engine vacuum to draw air past the sensor.
Ken Kanne
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
'84 633CSi "Sylvia"; '85 635CSi "Katja";'85 325e "Hazel Ann"; '95 M3 "Ashlyn"
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Observation - that wallet is not thick enough to complete this conversionmdkohler wrote: ↑Mon Jan 27, 2020 3:51 pm And finally, we get to the heart of the conversion, the 144V motor and 500A controller, good for ~85kW and 220Nm of torque (0-3800 rpm). It is 9” in diameter, 13” long and weighs 120lbs (55kg). It is also air-cooled for simplicity and can be paralleled with another to double the power of the car. Wallet is placed as a reference for size.
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
I'm reminded of the Patek Phillippe advert: we only hold it in trust for the next generation. So while I admire the science project aspect of this, as a re-do of a piece of rolling art (engine included), this would not be my first choice.
--Ken
--Ken
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
PM sent regarding parts for sale
--Ken
--Ken
Sansouci
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
84 E24 633Csi Auto, Bronzit/PearlBeige 6997510
93 E32 740il M60 Auto, Alpenweis/Ultramarine
60 528i M30 5-speed Green/Beige (crushed)
71 240Z 4-speed White/Blue (rusty & sold)
65 396 Chevelle 4-speed, Marina Blue/Black (stolen)
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Today was a big day in moving my project forward. As it is with most of us working from home now, I have more time to work on the 635 EV conversion. Although I have loved driving it these past few months, I've acquired all of the electrical components and am ready to start the physical conversion.
After removing the engine, exhaust, and fuel tank, it looks like its ready to go 4wheelin'! The engine bay is now empty. So now I finally have a lot of parts to sell if anyone out there wants to work on their 6.
After removing the engine, exhaust, and fuel tank, it looks like its ready to go 4wheelin'! The engine bay is now empty. So now I finally have a lot of parts to sell if anyone out there wants to work on their 6.
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Engine available for immediate sale:
1985 M30 Euro Spec engine. Approximately 220km on it, perfect temp, 600-700 rpm idle.
There are some numbers on the motor:
43013591
34 6E B
(sold)
1985 M30 Euro Spec engine. Approximately 220km on it, perfect temp, 600-700 rpm idle.
There are some numbers on the motor:
43013591
34 6E B
(sold)
Last edited by mdkohler on Sat Apr 18, 2020 4:27 am, edited 2 times in total.
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Exhaust (with Silverline tips) available for sale. Cut in half. $100 for each half. Front half (headers and CAT) are original, back half (silencer,muffler, tips) is aftermarket.
(Sold)
Catalytic Converter is still available.
(Sold)
Catalytic Converter is still available.
Last edited by mdkohler on Mon Apr 27, 2020 9:59 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Fuel tank (sold). Looks to be in great shape. No rust. Includes fuel cap and fuel pump/filter.
Fuel sending unit was always accurate.
Also have the fuel lines if interested (although not sure how to ship them).
PM with an offer. Buyer pays for shipping.
Fuel sending unit was always accurate.
Also have the fuel lines if interested (although not sure how to ship them).
PM with an offer. Buyer pays for shipping.
Last edited by mdkohler on Tue Oct 27, 2020 1:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
I also have an A/C compressor (converted to R134a, including belt) that blows cold ($75), radiator with shroud (with working sensors) and hoses for sale.
Buyer pays for shipping.
Buyer pays for shipping.
Last edited by mdkohler on Thu Apr 16, 2020 11:47 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
I have a power steering pump for sale if needed.
Make offer. Buyer pays for shipping.
Last edited by mdkohler on Sat Apr 18, 2020 4:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
This is quite interesting and I admire your courage and technical knowledge. However, couple of questions:
- Do I understand correctly, you are converting from 160 KW - 310 off Nm, to 85 and 220. What's the overall power to weight ratio conversion by comparison
- What considerations around battery heat management. Excuse my ignorance if this is not an issue for your application/ spec.
- Do I understand correctly, you are converting from 160 KW - 310 off Nm, to 85 and 220. What's the overall power to weight ratio conversion by comparison
- What considerations around battery heat management. Excuse my ignorance if this is not an issue for your application/ spec.
'85 635csi JPS (RA2-66)
- 86_6series
- Platinum Member
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Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
PM sent about oil cooler.
86-635CSi
96-MB C220 SOLD
98-740i
71-Continental MK3
96-MB C220 SOLD
98-740i
71-Continental MK3
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Phase 1 will use one motor (85kW and 220Nm), while I work out all the issues. Phase two will use two motors (170kW and 440Nm) in parallel. I suspect that when the conversion in finished, I will have added about 500 lbs (227 kgs) to the overall weight of the car, but still keeping within gross vehicle weight. I imagine that it will feel like I have 3 passengers with me, but with the extra torque, it may even out so that it performs as well as when new. It should make a fun city car (0-45mph).jps635 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 09, 2020 5:55 am This is quite interesting and I admire your courage and technical knowledge. However, couple of questions:
- Do I understand correctly, you are converting from 160 KW - 310 off Nm, to 85 and 220. What's the overall power to weight ratio conversion by comparison
- What considerations around battery heat management. Excuse my ignorance if this is not an issue for your application/ spec.
As for battery heat management, I won't have any. I only have a ~25kWh pack (70-90 miles of range) so will not be on the road long enough to need it. Just like the gen 1 Nissan Leaf. For my application, I plan to commute to work (22 miles), then plug in. Return home, repeat. If the batteries get hot (which they will in Texas), or cold (reducing range), that is okay with me.
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Strange, nothing came through. Go ahead and send it to my home email
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
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Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
I recently saw a highly modified XK 129 jag. The A/C was an electric compressor in the fender well with a small condenser An interesting thought for you to possibly simplify one of the systems
81 Euro 635 M90 with motronic. Currently under a complete nut and bolt restoration. Pictures at
flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos.
flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos.
Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Thanks bpoliakoff, I plan to use an electric compressor for the A/C. Scroll up the page to the 5th entry to see a picture. It's smaller and lighter than the original.bpoliakoff wrote: ↑Thu Apr 09, 2020 11:52 pm I recently saw a highly modified XK 129 jag. The A/C was an electric compressor in the fender well with a small condenser An interesting thought for you to possibly simplify one of the systems
Marc
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
Austin, Tx
1985 635CSi Euro
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Re: Electrifying my '85 635CSi Euro
Missed that. If I wasn't doing an accurate resto I think that would be the way to go
81 Euro 635 M90 with motronic. Currently under a complete nut and bolt restoration. Pictures at
flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos.
flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos.