Rear Tailights Removal

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Bees24
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Rear Tailights Removal

Post by Bees24 »

Does anyone have a guide on removing the taillights? I've tried removing the two nuts on the back of the lights but when I pushed the lens it broke which I suspect is due to the plastic going brittle.

I've got new lenses on order but before they arrive I want to completely remove theigjt to give them a going over and refurbish as much as possible.

Thanks in advance :D
GRNSHRK
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Re: Rear Tailights Removal

Post by GRNSHRK »

The lenses do remove by just taking off those 2 round "finger nuts", or whatever you call them, and pushed from the inside :-?

Sounds like the gaskets have become adhered to the lenses :-k

But if you are replacing, then no loss, I guess [-(

From there, also from the inside of the boot, I think there are 4X nuts, 8mm maybe, that secure the rest of the assembly, which comes in 2 parts, the chrome bezel and the reflector assembly that holds all of the bulbs, along with another gasket [-o<

Tread carefully here, as you don't want to break anything in the process of disassembly [-X

The reflectors will most likely require a repaint with silver/chrome paint, many of us have done this =D>

The bezels, on the other hand, I think are NLA and if they are pitted, this may be your toughest challenge :-({|=

Good luck \:D/
:mrgreen:
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Ronnie Wilson
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Re: Rear Tailights Removal

Post by Ronnie Wilson »

Hi

When you remove the Light assembly, if your lucky the bottom edge of the Chrome will still be intact and it may have some bubbling to the Chrome finish.
These can be re-Chromed and small pieces of metal brazed in if needed but it’s not cheap as is most of the parts on the e24.
You can get new ones but their around £300 from Walloth and Nesh in Germany.
I found a good set on Ebay that just needed re-Chroming.

Good luck.
Ronnie
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sansouci
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Re: Rear Tailights Removal

Post by sansouci »

If the gaskets have become adhered to the lens or housing, will decal remover help?
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MisterFixit
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Re: Rear Tailights Removal

Post by MisterFixit »

REBOOT - this is a relevant subject for one of my restoration / upgrade rear light sets...

Customer says their mechanic cannot remove the rear lenses to replace the reflectors with a restored set just purchased from me... Maybe he doesn't have to!

So maybe now is a good time to clarify the assembly of these.

REAR PANEL-
Separates the trunk interior from the rest of the world, and holds the lights in place.

INTERIOR-
The black reflector with wiring, bulb sockets and contacts sits inside the trunk, against the panel interior. It is held in place by six studs and 8mm nuts that are threaded into the outer chrome bezel (trim ring) on the OUTSIDE of the trunk. The back side of the reflector has the wire connector socket (six terminals) and a protective (dust) cover with two big plastic hand-nuts.

EXTERIOR-
The chrome bezel is fitted over a foam gasket (body seal) to prevent water intrusion, and secured using those six studs and 8mm nuts through the reflector inside the trunk. The lens is seated in the bezel in a groove with a foam gasket (lens seal) and secured with two studs and hand-nuts.

Sandwich construction-
The chrome bezel and reflector assemble like a sandwich around the body sheet metal panel, secured by six studs. The body seal prevents leaks between the sheet metal and the bezel.

The Lens and the cover assemble like a sandwich around the bezel and reflector, secured by two studs and hand-nuts. The lens seal prevents leaks between the bezel and the lens.

MAINTENANCE-
What I call "The M Word" - for most, this is bulb replacement. The 'factory' method has you remove the hand-nuts, push/pull the lens off, change the bulb(s), and replace the lens and hand-nuts. Cleaning the remaining bulbs and reflector surfaces of any road-dust or whatever gets inside is optional and a good idea. Replacing the bulbs every few years whether or not they have failed is ALSO a good idea.

PROBLEMS-
As observed above by GRNSHRK and Bees24, the lens often stick to the gasket which can cause that sickening cracking sound if you just shove the two studs to remove the lens. This is bad.

Sometimes the lenses crack on their own, usually at the amber-red junction by the turn signal. This is also bad.

REMEDY-
This has just come up with a customer who is conflicted about installing a nicely restored custom pair of reflectors I just finished... His desire is for bigger, brighter, more reliable lights with dual tails, dual brakes, AND working rear fog lights. His Mechanic says the lens will not come off, and would likely break in the attempt. New lenses have been found at $800 the pair. He wants to return the restored and upgraded lights, and I want to find a solution that solves all the problems at once, without spending another $800 on lenses that have not been removed -- or broken -- yet.

HERE ARE MY THOUGHTS-
1) Spray bottle with a soap and warm water solution, sprayed at a glancing angle at the edges all around the lenses. Spray to penetrate into the groove where the lens gasket lives. Let Soak, repeat. Remove hand-nuts inside the trunk. Push gently INWARD on the OUTSIDE of the lens all the way around the edge, pushing in and up and down and left and right, to disturb the seal and break its grip on the lens. Micro-pry the lens GENTLY with a small hard plastic spatula around the edges, same goal of disturbing the seal's grip on the lens. Peanut Oil may also work instead of soapy water.

2) Once removed, a new foam lens gasket would be installed at assembly, maybe with a lithium grease or other inert (non-plastic-disolving) lubricant or rubber dressing applied. This may also help seal the lens-bezel joint against dust and water intrusion, as a bonus. The cracked lenses will need another solution; another post.

3) Third option - RISKY in some ways - would be removal of the reflector inside the trunk, and leave the bezel / lens installed on the outside. The bulbs are accessible now, but the risk of disturbing the outer body seal is high, and the risk of corrosion within or pullout at the bezel studs can cause a nightmare. NASA could probably do it handily, but it would cost $32.6 million, take seventeen months, and by that time you'd have found another shark to love. You'd remove the hand-nuts, cover, and six 8mm nuts to remove the reflector, if you're feeling competent. Let us know...

?) Fourth, what is your thinking on this? Don't hold back - think of the ten year old who dislodged a truck that was just a tad too tall, and got wedged in a tunnel that was just a hair too small... and was costing the city millions due to traffic cessation.


The solution was just a few words, from a brilliant mind -- "Let the air out of the tires." SOLVED!
(know any ten year olds?)
"Be Seen, and Not Hurt!"
Lighting Upgrades for 2002, E3, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39 - front & back
Headlight and Tail Light upgrades for maximum visibility. Headlight protection to keep lights intact.
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Ralph in Socal
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Re: Rear Tailights Removal

Post by Ralph in Socal »

I usually push outward on the plastic nuts. Loosen until they're almost off then push outward evenly with controlled force. The studs are in a reinforced area so the lens (unless deteriorated) will not break.

Thanks for my upgraded lights Andy. I'm 😊

Ralph
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MisterFixit
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Re: Rear Tailights Removal

Post by MisterFixit »

Ralph - glad you are happy with them.

I have to assume (a) the mechanic is not comfortable shoving on the studs, or (b) they're stuck beyond what normal adhesion has made them, and (c) not sure how familiar they are with the E24. Plus, former owners have been known to use sealant to stop leaking, I just don't know.

Not wanting to hear they broke during removal and it's my fault, I am using the careful approach. Plus, I have no idea how long the car has been sitting, nor where, nor if the lenses have ever been off. I am completely ignorant of the vehicle's condition... and my emails to the customer were bouncing.

>>>UPDATE -- email communication restored, Hurrah! <<<

Thx
"Be Seen, and Not Hurt!"
Lighting Upgrades for 2002, E3, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39 - front & back
Headlight and Tail Light upgrades for maximum visibility. Headlight protection to keep lights intact.
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