starts every time but will only run for a few moments

[dmoonbeam633]

Almost ready I have kinda run out of ideas and methods. Starting fine but will not run for long. No muffler I was hoping to get to the muffler shop on its own wheels.
Maybe there is a system that thinks I am stealling this car cause I took out the starter wire and fixed it to a start switch. Due to a bad ignition switch. Don't want to pour any money into it unless it can move. I know how to loop the d-plug for starting but what about run? Is there a run loop to bypass the ignition switch? Can't find it in the etm but I know I have seen it before. Project has come a long long way. A new style maybe even... but the crazyness with the wiring in this car has been hellish from day one.
Please any suggestions will be greatly apperciated
D

[Chris Wright]

What year is the car?

What is "looping the d-plug"?

We can't help until we know specifically what you have done to hack it up

(Oh, and Please re-size your photos before posting? A full page photo never needs to larger then 100k or 150k. thanks)
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There are 3 reasons why a car will start and immediately stop running (Pg. 3-12 Para 4.4 of the Bentley Manual):

1) The ECU shuts down the fuel pump when the key returns from the start position to the run position because the ECU is not getting a signal from the Speed sensor telling it that the engine is running (safety feature). For checking see below.

2) Vacuum Leaks!! A large enough vacuum leak and the car won't idle and dies.

3) Clogged fuel injectors, it starts on the cold start valve but stops when the extra fuel from the cold start valve stops and the Clogged injectors won't keep it running.

Checking the Speed Sensor (Applies to the Reference Sensor also) :

• Check the plugs to the sensors first, the plastic can get brittle with age and they can crack around the wire locking bail leaving them loose. Then check their resistance as below (won't hurt to check them both hot and cold if the car's hard starting is temperature sensitive):

<a><img src="http://bigcoupe.com/ims/pic.php?u=21GvpX2&i=349" border="0"></a>

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Why not just get a new ignition switch? (the switch is separate from the ignition key tumbler):

Ignition switches:
viewtopic.php?t=8478
viewtopic.php?t=8716
nstallation photo's: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... st21593684

[Brucey]

also see;

viewtopic.php?t=5894&highlight=pesky+nostart+6er

in this case the engine quit within about three seconds, because only the cold start injector was firing.

Another possible fault (if you have one) is a clogged/collapsed catalyst.

cheers

[Flash635]

So basically you're hotwiring the car?
Have you given the coil 12 volts?

Like Chris said, we need to know the specific model and other info like whether or not you're using a key.

[Hefeweizen]

also see;

viewtopic.php?t=5894&highlight=pesky+nostart+6er

in this case the engine quit within about three seconds, because only the cold start injector was firing.

Another possible fault (if you have one) is a clogged/collapsed catalyst.

cheers

+1 on the clogged calatytic converter. Strong possibility!

[woody6]

Almost ready I have kinda run out of ideas and methods. Starting fine but will not run for long.
Please any suggestions will be greatly apperciated
D

Pull the distributor cap and check for moisture. I had a similar problem once when my 635 sat for a couple of months. Condensation in the distributor was the only problem. Best of luck.
--Woody