What did you do to your E24 today?

[wattsmonkey]

Beautiful car and beautiful place, Don. So glad you've got there after so much messing around and extra work.

[RossDinan6]

After a mention about Tesa tape here recently I ordered a roll for the harness in my engine bay. It has looked pretty bad for quite some time. Failing tape and zip ties. I did the run from the cowl to the left side radiator support.


Before:



After:




A big improvement, I should have done it long ago.

[KINGJOHN808]

Finally started putting the center console, stereo, car phone and glove compartment back in after 4 years. Lots of “mystery screws” and what not. .

[sideshowbob]

Well not quite today.....but finally got round to fitting new odometer gears in the speedometer head and also replaced a link between the door handle and the locking mechanism on the nearside door.
I was dreading this repair but after getting the door cards off and establishing that it was a broken part and nothing involving electrics and central
locking it was a rather fiddly but easy repair.

Next job is to revisit the non functioning drivers electric headrest. Motor is reassuringly whirring away, so I suspect I will have to trim down the outer sheath of the Bowden cable drive. Hopefully that will see it operational again !

[wattsmonkey]

Good work! scraped knuckles and swearing mandatory in my experience!

[KINGJOHN808]

Took the old girl out for a “Sunday Funday” drive to the west side of the island today. Longest trip to date in the 633, just over 60 miles round trip. She drove like a champ!

[northNH]

(Not today but ~2 months ago)

Found a mate for my faithful 185Kmile ‘86…


‘88 M6:

[GRNSHRK]

Just 24K on the clock

Dang, nice find

[plip1953]

Next job is to revisit the non functioning drivers electric headrest. Motor is reassuringly whirring away, so I suspect I will have to trim down the outer sheath of the Bowden cable drive. Hopefully that will see it operational again !

I have the same job to do. I did it one before, but can't have removed quite enough length from the bowden cable. Can you please post a pic of position of the clips on your seat as last time I tried to remove the panel it seemed very reluctant to move.

[RossDinan6]

Today I drove it, but that is not the point of posting, is it? Recently I decided it time to address the wonky speedometer. It would sometimes be honest and at others bounce about randomly, display ludicrous speeds or just peg the meter. Driving in my neighborhood looking at a 130 MPH speed was entertaining, sorry no pictures.

Connections I was sure. Also I would get a brake light indicator on or flickering when it wanted to. About that time the odometer decided it time to quit.

With parts from odometergeras,com in hand out came the cluster. Not my first rodeo, so no big deal. With the cluster apart on the bench I tackled the odometer gears. I bought the set of three for $65 plus shipping. Only the stepper motor gear was bad in my case. I tried to fail the others after removal. They probably could have been left, but why bother. The only catch there was using too small of a pair of dikes to eliminate the bushing on the motor shaft. The shaft is stouter than the brass bushing.

Next up, the wonky speedo. With the cluster apart I cleaned up all the connectors with a couple sets of diamond connector files I got off the Crack Truck (Snap On is crack for pro tool users) Thankfully a business deduction so a little cheaper after mid April. The connectors have a little finger in the female side that applies tension to the male connector. With a pin I pricked at it to bend it slightly to increase the tension when assembled. Yeah, sounds kinky I suspect. It's electrical work, what can I say.

I can now report the odometer functions. The speedometer operates normally, with the added bonus of the cruise control not randomly dropping out any longer. And the brake light out indicator is gone.

I'd call this a win. So, what next? I do love my old junk!

[Geezy2424]

Adjusted my coilovers
Installed a nardi hub and steering wheel
Drove it

I need to change the sunroof relay but not sure how to remove the panel yet.

[bpoliakoff]

Gently pull the rear of the panel down and then slide id back

[GRNSHRK]

Nice steering wheel

Gently pull the rear of the panel down and then slide id back

OK, I think that Bert was standing on his head when he posted this advice, as it's exactly opposite of how the front header panel is removed, presuming that it comes out the same way as series 1 cars

First you have to remove the rear view mirror, which appears difficult but simply pulls off, usually best to try one side at a time. It's held in by a spring loaded system, you'll see once it's off, provided you didn't poke an eye out in the process

You also have to remove the sun visors

But you have to get the panel out from the windshield gasket first, then pull the panel forward, in order to remove it

IF you pull it down from the back side, you will brake off the clips that secures it, you'll see once it's off

[bpoliakoff]

^^. Forgot it was backwards Spent to much time on my head under the dash

[RossDinan6]

Washed of yesterday's road grime. It was still damp early yesterday on the drive to Sebring. A small cold front passed overnight leaving very nice weather all day. Met up with a couple friends for the drive.

Attended the SVRA vintage, GT America and Trans Am races. There is a large car show there as well as the expected good road racing. There were even some pilots out of the Sebring airport next door practicing their aerobatics.

HSR has their spring event coming up there March 8-10 (https://www.hsrrace.com/) This is on my calendar annually. I'll be there unless life intervenes. The 2500 and 6 both plan the same. Ya'll come on out and wave the out of warranty BMW flag with us.

My Polaris '84, freshly a restored '83 and a '70 2500 with a breathed on 3.7 and a couple Minis that appeared.

[Geezy2424]

Nice steering wheel

Gently pull the rear of the panel down and then slide id back

OK, I think that Bert was standing on his head when he posted this advice, as it's exactly opposite of how the front header panel is removed, presuming that it comes out the same way as series 1 cars

First you have to remove the rear view mirror, which appears difficult but simply pulls off, usually best to try one side at a time. It's held in by a spring loaded system, you'll see once it's off, provided you didn't poke an eye out in the process

You also have to remove the sun visors

But you have to get the panel out from the windshield gasket first, then pull the panel forward, in order to remove it

IF you pull it down from the back side, you will brake off the clips that secures it, you'll see once it's off

THANK YOU!!!

[bpoliakoff]

Took it out for a 20 mile drive.Trying to make sure it is dependable so not too far from home just incase/ For those of you who haven't seen it


https://youtu.be/H1YqFrU6P3Q

[bpoliakoff]

My car has me standing on my head often

[sideshowbob]

Took car out over weekend to a West Berkshire Classic Car meet at Renegade Brewery, Yattenden, near Newbury, a few cars of interest and a great breakfast in brewery cafe.

on the drive my wife complained that the seat back was loose on the passenger side, further investigation revealed it was very loose in fact the backrest was moving up and down a few inches on the nearside.
Decided to remove some of the seat trim (Highline) to discover what I thought initially was a broken weld on the frame.

I was very pleased to then discover that a largish Philips type screw had fallen onto the car floor as I was removing trim.

Turns out there are two of these oner each side holding the seat back in place on the base frame, screwed them both back in as tight as possible abd job done.

Only thing now is have to put seat back on and secure the seat releaser lever and trim, already 'lost' M4x10 set screw that holds lever in place somewhere in seat back, new ones ordered and arrived today .

[nick88highline]

Removed curved blade aux fan and "upgraded" to a SPAL VA18-AP701LL-86S. I tried the slimline version, but it's no good at all compared to the OEM fan - it just doesn't blow much air.

You can just about see it behind the plethora of aux radiators:



It makes a lot of noise, but seems slightly more powerful than the Siemens curved blade fan it replaces.

[wattsmonkey]

That's a whole bunch of aux radiators! I'm loving the undertray, too - have I missed a post on this? If not, I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd love to hear the story.

[wattsmonkey]

That's a whole bunch of aux radiators! I'm loving the undertray, too - have I missed a post on this? If not, I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd love to hear the story.

[nick88highline]

That's a whole bunch of aux radiators! I'm loving the undertray, too - have I missed a post on this? If not, I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd love to hear the story.

I don't think I have told the story of the undertray...needless to say it's been through many iterations and taken many years to "perfect". I'll try to write something up

By the way, the white Mocal radiator is for the power steering system (right hand drive car with steering box cooker), long Setrab radiator is for the automatic transmission (temp controlled) and Aeroquip piped Setrab radiator is temp controlled engine oil cooling.

[jps635]

and Aeroquip piped Setrab radiator is temp controlled engine oil cooling.

What's the thermostat/bypass valve to control the flow and how do know when is open? Can you post photos please. I have the factory oil rad and an oil temp gauge - it can take quite a few km's for the oil to reach temp in winter.

[wattsmonkey]

[/quote]

I don't think I have told the story of the undertray...needless to say it's been through many iterations and taken many years to "perfect". I'll try to write something up

By the way, the white Mocal radiator is for the power steering system (right hand drive car with steering box cooker), long Setrab radiator is for the automatic transmission (temp controlled) and Aeroquip piped Setrab radiator is temp controlled engine oil cooling.
[/quote]

Now I'm even more interested, yes please post more details. I know the highline has a power steering cooling loop that goes to the nose (which the pre-HIghline cars don't have), but is there a specific reason for the cooler?

Thank you,

Rob