Basic needs related to restoring a 6er including
Electronics, Bodywork, Welding, Painting, Engine Swap, etc
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Post by blackbirdxx »

Just a quick question with regard to welding...
I'm currently in the process of repairing the outer sills (rockers) and a few small areas in the floorplan,

What are others doing in respect to rustproofing the inside of the new sills? Should I paint the inside face of the steel sills with zinc paint prior to filling the cavities with waxoyl or similar once completed?

Also, the front jack points are rusted. As they need to be removed to repair the floor, is there any need to replace them? I understand that these square pads are not actual jack points anyway but were simply used for lifting the body around the factory.

Anyway, thanks for any help...
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Re: Welding

Post by nick88highline »

I did this a few years ago and would spray zinc weld through primer on the new pieces of metal that I welded in. Not sure how much this really helps, but the important bit is the wax. I used Noxudol 700 to fill the cavities. I did this by blocking all the sill drain holes then removed the rear seat side trim and poured about 10 litres of the wax into the cavity until it overflowed into the car...oops. It's best to do this in a heated place, or at least try to drive as much moisture out of the sills before putting the wax in. Leave for an hour or so and then unplug the drain holes. It's a costly way to do it, but I think it's better than spraying it in.
BMW 635CSiA (1988)
BMW i3 (2016)
Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 (2000)
Morris Minor 1000 (1968)
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Re: Welding

Post by olympia57 »

I echo what Nick says except I sprayed it into the sills, box sections and closed cavities throughout the car . I thinned the wax mixture with bar and chain oil which gives excellent creep qualities and did it on a warm day . You really have to get it to creep down into the sandwiched pinch welded sections at the very base of the sills
I have several different spray guns for applying rust proofing with various home made attachments that allow spraying into the tightest corner.
Remove the stainless sill trims drill some 18mm holes ,spray in and then fit rubber grommets to seal again.There are already plugged holes on the inner sill to floor section that will also give access .
Take your time whilst doing it but dress accordingly as it is a messy ( but satisfying ) job.
I also removed the square mounting pads on the front footwell as they served no useful purpose and only collected detritus .
One tip I would give and that is , being in UK , to invest in a pair of Lokari liners for the front wheel wells .
Good luck .
1981 635 series 1
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