Dinan M635 Turbo Joins The Family

[tschultz]

Any tips on your restoration process of cleaning prepping priming and painting the wheel wells? Where do you get your paint? Are you using glausurit 1k paint for the henna color?

How do you paint the nooks and crannies and not get overspray or runs?

You make the restoration and refinishing look so easy with the before and after pics, Yasin!

[Slownrusty]

Any tips on your restoration process of cleaning prepping priming and painting the wheel wells? Where do you get your paint? Are you using glausurit 1k paint for the henna color?

How do you paint the nooks and crannies and not get overspray or runs?

You make the restoration and refinishing look so easy with the before and after pics, Yasin!

Tom - Thanks. One thing I actually enjoy doing is painting,,,over the years I've really improved my abilities in this area.

To answer your question:
For the wheel wells:

1) Step 1: Thoroughly clean with high pressure water to remove mud and years of road "cake / grime"

2) Step 2: De-grease with Zepp Industrial cleaner...the purple stuff from Home Depot..wash it off with water and then let it thoroughly dry.

3) Step 3: Sand the wheel wells with 320-grit, if there is any rust, either wire brush or use a coarse fiber disc on a die grinder.

4) Step 4: Wash again and then dry thoroughly

5) Step 5: Mask the area, I use the wide 3M (3" wide) blue painters tape and lots of newspaper to cover everything.

6) Step 6: 2 coats of primer, I use PPG applied with a HVLP gun.

7) Step 7: 3-coats of PPG top-coat which I have mixed with some gloss added.

Fortunately, there is a PPG paint store in Houston, so I pop in there when I need paint and supplies. In the past I have also used Automotive Touch-Up based in Louisiana and they have mixed up the paint in an Aerosol and it worked great as well (less over spray and less clean up) or if you do not have a spray gun. I will say modern paint in an aerosol has come a long way in the past few years.

It sounds like a lot of work and time, and it can be depending on the condition of the wheel wells, but I enjoy this type of work, so its enjoyable (esp. when you look at the "after" and compare from when you started).

Hope this helps.
Yasin

[Slownrusty]

Yesterday, I fitted new brake shoes to the trailing arms and also the PowerFlex bushings (which there is only way to installing them correctly, you'll notice the bushings have a fat flange and thin flange).

Rear Trailing Arms After 2.JPG (824.69 KiB) Viewed 3535 times

Rear Trailing Arms After 3.JPG (755.89 KiB) Viewed 3535 times

Rear Trailing Arms After 4.JPG (729.28 KiB) Viewed 3535 times

[Slownrusty]

Gratuitous rear diff mount, axles and bog bone pics

Diff Mount Before.JPG (710.94 KiB) Viewed 3535 times

Diff Mount New.JPG (761.69 KiB) Viewed 3535 times

Dogbones Old.JPG (918.08 KiB) Viewed 3535 times

Dogbones New.JPG (650.74 KiB) Viewed 3535 times

[Slownrusty]

Axles Old & New.JPG (898.84 KiB) Viewed 3535 times

[jps635]

What make are the new axles?

[Slownrusty]

What make are the new axles?

The axles are made by GKN, but when I get them, I typically check that they are sufficiently packed with grease and also I re-paint them as the paint is so thinly applied.

[tschultz]

Thanks for sharing wheel well details.

I have used gln axles and rebuilt my own before.

[jdb]

This has been epic to see this M6 come together!!
The rear suspension was a real accomplishment with all that undercoat removal.
Thanks for doing such a great job with the progress Yasin

Jeff

[Slownrusty]

Thanks Jeff and Tom.

I appreciate the kind words.

I've been chipping away at the car a few hours every evening after work and this past weekend.

The entire rear end, brakes and associated parts are now all installed. No more nasty black undercoating!!

The next time I have to do all this again, I will be 91-years old (or dead). But I will enjoy it in the meantime.

Summary of the work:

• New subframe PowerFlex subframe poly bushings
  New Trailing Arm PowerFlex poly bushings
  Rebuilt rear E34 540i calipers
  New cross drilled \ slotted vented rear E34 rotors
  New Bosch brake shoes
  New Bilstein shocks
  Rebuilt rear coilovers
  Made new poly bushings for the rear sway bar
  Dinan adjustable 19mm rear sway bar w\ adjustable end links
  Dinan Rear trailing arm eccentric adjustment
  New GKN axles
  Conversion from wheel bolts to studs
  New Bosch fuel filter, hoses and Bosch pump
  Serviced differential w\ new BMW differential mount
  All new Grade 8.8, 10.9 yellow zinc fasteners
  Cerakote, Powdercoat and paint

Here are the pictures of everything installed.

After 2.JPG (519.49 KiB) Viewed 3345 times

After 3.JPG (664.94 KiB) Viewed 3345 times

After 5.JPG (791.18 KiB) Viewed 3345 times

After 6.JPG (464.91 KiB) Viewed 3345 times

[Slownrusty]

After 7.JPG (622.53 KiB) Viewed 3341 times

[jps635]

Nice. I have the K Mac rear adjustables - they do a good job of straightening up the rear camber.

Also, I applied some of that thick crinkle finished 3m wrap on the leading edge of the gas tank to take the gravel rash

[jdb]

I just noticed the rear sway bar reinforcement brackets
They must be Dinan parts??
They look pretty slick, Simple yet effective. Solid design without having to weld in reinforcement brackets like I did.

Jeff

[Slownrusty]

I just noticed the rear sway bar reinforcement brackets
They must be Dinan parts??
They look pretty slick, Simple yet effective. Solid design without having to weld in reinforcement brackets like I did.

Jeff

Jeff - That's correct, those brackets are part of the original Dinan kit. Very well designed and strong. It does require drilling two (2) M8 holes in the trunk per side to mount them but that is the only modification to the car needed.
Here is a better picture of them (middle of the picture on the left):

After Powdercoating 2.JPG (860.75 KiB) Viewed 3307 times

[Slownrusty]

Nice. I have the K Mac rear adjustables - they do a good job of straightening up the rear camber.

Also, I applied some of that thick crinkle finished 3m wrap on the leading edge of the gas tank to take the gravel rash

Thank-you and agreed on the addressing the rear camber with the eccentrics.

Thanks for the tip on protecting the gas tank as well.

[Slownrusty]

I had a bit of an unfortunate incident last night installing the drive shaft and torquing the Guibo, my 1/2" Torque wench slipped off one of the M12 bolts and smacked me in the face. At first, I thought I lost a front tooth (as it hit me so hard) but just ended up with a really badly busted lip. I was a bloody mess - metaphorically and physically. My wife was less than impressed. Surprisingly I kept working until 10pm, lip bleeding and a tee-shirt that looked I was in a bad bar fight.

I swear at times this car is trying to kill me!

Anyway...the show MUST go ON!

Before the busted lip incident. I noticed the centering sleeve or bushing on my driveshaft was looking sloppy, so bought a new one. Removing the old one, I thought was going to be a breeze...right? Wrong. I tried the children's putty method and that did not work, so ended it up having to cut out the old one with some carbide bits I use for head / intake porting.

Driveshaft Centering Bushing 1.JPG (712.94 KiB) Viewed 3305 times

Driveshaft Centering Bushing 2.JPG (616.88 KiB) Viewed 3305 times

After I installed the new centering sleeve and bushing, it was time to re-install the driveshaft with a new Guibo, always fun (until you get smacked in the face!). Those 6xM12 bolts are torqued to 90-ft.lbs!

Driveshaft Installed.JPG (644.91 KiB) Viewed 3305 times

Once done....finally I was able to get the transmission cross member installed with new rubber mounts and fasteners.

Transmission Crossmember Installed.JPG (558.09 KiB) Viewed 3305 times

[Slownrusty]

Here's another view of the rear end all installed:

After 8.JPG (596.98 KiB) Viewed 3303 times

One neat thing I did was to modify some generic 19mm Suspension Techniques poly bushings (purchased off Amazon) with my table top belt sander. The original rubber bushings that were on the car were in poor condition and so here was an opportunity to try something new. Everything worked well and fitment in the stock brackets were perfect.

DSC_0003.JPG (457.03 KiB) Viewed 3303 times

DSC_0006.JPG (609.3 KiB) Viewed 3303 times

[Slownrusty]

Filled the diff last night.

This will be the first time trying RedLine in a BMW. Anyone else using this?

New Diff Fluid.JPG (668.16 KiB) Viewed 3277 times

[GRNSHRK]

Cerakote is applied as a powder and then baked. It forms a much thinner layer than traditional powder coat.

Back to the Cerakote, typical powder coating is electrostatically applied, then baked on, how does this powder adhere

Regarding the use of Redline fluids, been using them forever, in both the tranny and diff

In the tranny I use MTL and in the diff I use 75W90 gear oil

And what's the deal with that pump

I use a suction gun but it's a PITA to use, that looks cool

Regarding the giubo, I think the bolts should alternate direction, not all the same direction as you have them installed

IIRC, there are arrows on the side that show what direction they should be, might want to check into that

Otherwise, looking great, as usual

[jps635]

In the tranny I use MTL and in the diff I use 75W90 gear oil

Same

[86_6series]

Bobbo,

I also remember seeing the bolts alternate on the guibo,
but I'm not sure where I saw that.

When I did a 5 speed swap, there was no room to feed the
bolts from the tranny side.

Here's a photo of a pre shot before a guibo change, may not be an e24.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/28107540@ ... 599676461/

[GRNSHRK]

Here's a scan from the "Big Blue Book" showing the alternate direction of the 6 bolts

The Hardy Disc used with auto tranny's has the arrows on it, not sure about the giubo, however

[hornhospital]

The guibo I replaced in my 84 633 had the little arrowheads on the perimeter, as did the new one that went in. In fact, every one I've looked at and/or replaced had them. E24, E30, E36 all had the arrowheads.

[86_6series]

So, looks like auto trans have the bolts alternate, manual does not.
On my original 86 auto, the universal bolted directly to the trans,
no guibo.

#2

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpa ... 6111225567

[Slownrusty]

Nothing wrong with putting all the bolts in one direction. I've studied this ad nauseum over the years.

If you decide to alternate it like the arrow heads shown on the guibo, you have to completely remove the driveshaft to replace the guibo, as there is not sufficient room on the trans side to slide these longer bolts out or even properly torque them (to 90-ft.lbs).

I've been running through a punch list of items this past weekend.

First-up was making new brake lines in the rear to the calipers. A previous mechanic or owner had used Vice-Grips on the fittings and chewed them to hell. Fortunately, these lines are still available and not terribly expensive from BMW ($42 each), but you they come straight and you have to bend them.

Brake Lines 2.JPG (1.15 MiB) Viewed 3176 times

Brake Lines 3.JPG (1.26 MiB) Viewed 3176 times

I also replaced the rear ABS sensors, the ones I removed from the car were chewed up as well.

ABS Sensors 1.JPG (886.45 KiB) Viewed 3176 times

ABS Sensors 2.JPG (441.35 KiB) Viewed 3176 times