Yesterday, I depressed the clutch pedal & heard more than felt, a feint 'pop' in that area.
But, yes I did almost feel something.
Maybe from the inside compared to from the outside?
The clutch pedal was just a little harder to depress from then till now.
Buster shifts fine so, am I right in figuring it's a spring?
With all my books, I'm not getting much info! But, there is a picture in
the Chilton manual section 7/ 9 that covers all Canadian & Us models from '70 to '88.
It's all I could find at that time.
It shows a spring attached to the top of the pedal.
Thanx for any info,,,,Greg
Clutch Pedal Spring?
Moderators: GRNSHRK, ron, bfons
Clutch Pedal Spring?
Hit the apex
in Long Beach, Cal
Buster/'82Euro6 Build Date 9/81
Rosallina/'80 528i Build Date 4/80
in Long Beach, Cal
Buster/'82Euro6 Build Date 9/81
Rosallina/'80 528i Build Date 4/80
That sounds an awful lot like what happened when I ended up with a broken pedal bracket.
viewtopic.php?t=7531&highlight=clutch
I suggest taking off the knee bolster panel and getting your face down there to take a close look.
Jose
viewtopic.php?t=7531&highlight=clutch
I suggest taking off the knee bolster panel and getting your face down there to take a close look.
Jose
1987 M6 - My dream car
both E24/1 and E24/2 have a spring that assists the clutch pedal downwards once you have started pushing down. When the pedal is at the top of the stroke the spring is 'overcentre' so it isn't helping at that point.
The spring module contains a centre part that is meant to stop the spring from extending past a certain point. Unfortunately this part is not very strong and this means that if you regularly depress the pedal to the floor, the spring module can fail. Once that happens the spring can pop out and then it won't be helping any more.
Part 16 here;
http://2009.bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/ ... als/pedal/
Of course it could be something else like a failed pedal bracket but these are somewhat less commonly seen on E24/1 as per your car.
You'll have to get down there and take a look!
cheers
The spring module contains a centre part that is meant to stop the spring from extending past a certain point. Unfortunately this part is not very strong and this means that if you regularly depress the pedal to the floor, the spring module can fail. Once that happens the spring can pop out and then it won't be helping any more.
Part 16 here;
http://2009.bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/ ... als/pedal/
Of course it could be something else like a failed pedal bracket but these are somewhat less commonly seen on E24/1 as per your car.
You'll have to get down there and take a look!
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dudes;
I'll start by saying I can't twist my body under the dashboard anymore.
Sooo, my mechanic ungracefully took out the spring and, yes it's broken.
Of course it isn't just a spring! That's too easy.
The spring consists of a coil about three inches long, that wraps
around a post w/o touching it. The post goes the full length & more.
There are about eight coils that are about 1/4" thick. It rests in between two
plates. One of which rests on a platform that has two prongs that rest somewhere
to be held in place. The other end has the post going from the bottom plate
thru the top plate (or vice versa) and I think
he said it ends up resembling an eye hook or something.
Of course,, not cheap!
A picture is of course, worth 1,000 words, right?
I've had it explained just how to do it but, if I run into a wall, which I do every time I just quit.
Thanx to everyone who gave me tips. I assume it's me.
But, I can still change the plugs!
If anyone has a similar spring, please post a picture & I just might buy it.
At least I know I can hold off for a while. My left knee needs the exercise anyway.
Thanx for your input,,,,Greg
Ps: I see now, it's # 16 that ends with 52540. Thanx Brucey!!
For that price I'm looking to go new!
I'll start by saying I can't twist my body under the dashboard anymore.
Sooo, my mechanic ungracefully took out the spring and, yes it's broken.
Of course it isn't just a spring! That's too easy.
The spring consists of a coil about three inches long, that wraps
around a post w/o touching it. The post goes the full length & more.
There are about eight coils that are about 1/4" thick. It rests in between two
plates. One of which rests on a platform that has two prongs that rest somewhere
to be held in place. The other end has the post going from the bottom plate
thru the top plate (or vice versa) and I think
he said it ends up resembling an eye hook or something.
Of course,, not cheap!
A picture is of course, worth 1,000 words, right?
I've had it explained just how to do it but, if I run into a wall, which I do every time I just quit.
Thanx to everyone who gave me tips. I assume it's me.
But, I can still change the plugs!
If anyone has a similar spring, please post a picture & I just might buy it.
At least I know I can hold off for a while. My left knee needs the exercise anyway.
Thanx for your input,,,,Greg
Ps: I see now, it's # 16 that ends with 52540. Thanx Brucey!!
For that price I'm looking to go new!
Hit the apex
in Long Beach, Cal
Buster/'82Euro6 Build Date 9/81
Rosallina/'80 528i Build Date 4/80
in Long Beach, Cal
Buster/'82Euro6 Build Date 9/81
Rosallina/'80 528i Build Date 4/80
It's called an over-center spring and I am in the process of replacing the one on my M5.
Greg, if you want new, go to ECS tuning, their price of ~$67 was the best that I stumbled upon.
Greg, if you want new, go to ECS tuning, their price of ~$67 was the best that I stumbled upon.
http://www.Drive4Corners.com
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
'79 635CSi Revival
'80 635CSi
'83 633CSi Callaway Turbo continued as 1988 535is Turbo
SOLD: '81 635CSi/A
the problem with this part is that the centre shaft and the top eye are made using a zinc die-casting. This simply isn't strong enough to withstand the spring force seen when the module tops out (extends fully). They often break because of this. I plan to repair mine by remaking the centre part in steel instead.
You can adjust the force of the unit using the locknuts. The more you allow the spring to 'help' the higher the force that the centre shaft sees when it tops out.
cheers
~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Clutch Pedal Spring?
I just replaced my clutch master and while down there replaced the throttle cable and fittings. My clutch over center spring was broken so I pulled it out and found another one. Now as I try to replace I cannot remember or even see where the two slots at the bottom of the spring are supposed to go. I have left the master cylinder pedal connector unfastened to make it easier. If anyone has a picture or good explanation that would help. It almost looks like the bottom of the spring sits against the cabin side firewall? Thoughts?
-
Ralph in Socal
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2747
- Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:32 am
- Location: High Desert of SoCal
Re: Clutch Pedal Spring?
I just experienced a clutch overcenter spring failure. The plastic end (it goes up against the bulkhead where there's a slot for the metal tabs protruding from the plastic end) deteriorated and broke part at the metal tabs. Visible cracking of the plastic piece is an early indication of future failure.
The spring assembly was still intact but unfortunately the plastic end dropped down from its intended position and broke the inlet hose nipple going to the clutch master cylinder. Brake fluid dripping in the footwell and the resulting low brake fluid warning light says fix it. Not fun but easier than replacing the master.
I have removed the overcenter spring as the clutch pedal returns to position without it. Pay attention to the position of the eccentric bolt attaching the master to the pedal. It's critical
Ralph
The spring assembly was still intact but unfortunately the plastic end dropped down from its intended position and broke the inlet hose nipple going to the clutch master cylinder. Brake fluid dripping in the footwell and the resulting low brake fluid warning light says fix it. Not fun but easier than replacing the master.
I have removed the overcenter spring as the clutch pedal returns to position without it. Pay attention to the position of the eccentric bolt attaching the master to the pedal. It's critical
Ralph
There is a very fine line between "Hobby" and Mental Illness.
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
85 635csi Zinno Auto
84 528i Euro
83 635 Euro Arktik
81 528i Kastanien 5-speed
88 528e Bronzit (Granpa Car)
86 535i Auto (For Sale)
81 633 csi (retired)
Re: Clutch Pedal Spring?
I unfortunately broke the first new over center spring I attempted to install. I had a horrific time trying to get my head far enough back on the floor to see exactly where the spot on the interior firewall accepted the spring. There were two problems that I tried to overcome during this debacle. First, in order to provide enough room to seat the spring, I had to bend the cruise control metal strip out of the way so it would be easier to pull back the pedal for ease of fitment for the spring. The first time I felt I had it positioned, when I pushed the pedal back down, the accelerator cable would rub it as I tested the gas pedal. That led me to believe that either I had positioned the plastic end of the spring too low on the back inner firewall panel, or that when the clutch pedal was connected to the master cylinder it would then allow the accelerator cable to clear it. I wanted to purchase the after market spring but they are sold out. I need to get some guidance before I try again with my second spring. This topic seems to be almost non-existent on this forum which is either strange or I am the only one that has struggled with this issue. Thoughts?