1984 633CSi Rises again!

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Sbeaud
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by Sbeaud »

Congratulations and thank you very much for your excellent thread! Love your documentation of your journey. Enjoy the great weather!

Scott
1988 M6
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

Sbeaud wrote: Sat Jan 28, 2023 1:34 pm Congratulations and thank you very much for your excellent thread! Love your documentation of your journey. Enjoy the great weather!

Scott
Thanks Scott. I serves as a reference for me to track all I do for the car and it's great to share the experience and get feedback. I figure if someone wants to know what it's like to bring one of these cars back to life, there a real life experiencer right here on big coupe!

The weather has been great. In fact, I took care of a few more items - next post!
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Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
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Anti-Rattle and a Drop

Post by songzunhuang »

I've noticed rattling noises in my doors when I am on a bumpy road. The recent incessant rains in California has done a number on the roads. There are potholes and damage everywhere making for a rough ride in spots. I decided to look inside my doors for any loose bits.

I'm glad to report that the window regulator and all the bolts seemed to be secure in the door. But I did notice some of the steel rods have some slop where they go through a few metal levers. These are the steel rods for the lock/unlock and the interior door handle. I bet there's supposed to be a plastic grommet or something similar to take out the slop. Digging in my hobby boxes, I found that the silicon tubing I used for my model airplane fuel lines could slip securely around the rods. Here's what I did - I think it should work pretty well. I did this on both the driver and passenger sides.

The arrows are pointing to the steel rods where they go through the big holes.
Stopping the interior ratttle
Stopping the interior ratttle
Anti Rattle.png (1.23 MiB) Viewed 3056 times
Next on the agenda was dropping my rear. I noticed that the gap between the tire and the fender was much larger in the rear than the front. I decided to adjust my rear Bilsteins and drop it by 2 notches. I discovered a trick using a few oak planks that allows me to move the clips on the shocks without having to remove them. Basically I remove the wheel, support the frame and the jack up the wheel hub enough to slip the oak planks under the spring retainers. Then I drop the wheel hub and the shock drops, but the oak planks keep the springs up so that I have space to move the clips. Here's a picture after I moved the clips down 2 positions for an almost 1" drop.
Adjusting my shocks
Adjusting my shocks
Drop 2 notches.png (1.44 MiB) Viewed 3056 times
So what does all this look like? Here's the new stance. I can just get two fingers slipped between the tire and the fender. Yea, I know. Such a scientific measurement. I think it'll work out just fine.
New attitude?
New attitude?
New sance.png (889.9 KiB) Viewed 3056 times
After all this, I washed and waxed the car. It's the first wax since the new paint about 3 months ago.
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Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by GRNSHRK »

Wow, talk about redneck engineering :shock:

Looks a little dangerous there Song, but glad you got it accomplished without any problems =D>

BTW, each groove in the Bilstein struts are 1 cm apart :-"
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by TimU »

Brilliant idea for the silicon hose.
I'll do that myself when I next take the door cards off.
04/1986 635csi Euro spec
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by Jubilados »

There are supposed to be grommets in those holes, and they are still available for cheap.
The grommets are a harder plastic, and in addition to stopping the rattling they also “tighten up” the feel of the interior door handles and the door lock knobs. Takes all the play out of the system.
But the silicone hose will also do ok too.
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by TimU »

Jubilados wrote: Mon Jan 30, 2023 3:31 am There are supposed to be grommets in those holes, and they are still available for cheap.
The grommets are a harder plastic, and in addition to stopping the rattling they also “tighten up” the feel of the interior door handles and the door lock knobs. Takes all the play out of the system.
But the silicone hose will also do ok too.
Part Number 52208238999 if anyone is looking for it.
It's used on a bunch of different parts.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxr ... series=E24
04/1986 635csi Euro spec
Australian Delivered, RHD
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

GRNSHRK wrote: Sun Jan 29, 2023 7:02 pm Wow, talk about redneck engineering :shock:

Looks a little dangerous there Song, but glad you got it accomplished without any problems =D>

BTW, each groove in the Bilstein struts are 1 cm apart :-"
LOL, it is redneck engineering. The alternative is to take out the shock and use a spring compressor, right? Using my "creative" method, I can do each side in about 15 minutes. If I did it the "right" way, it'd be hours!

Hm, didn't know the exact measurement of each groove, but that makes perfect sense. Something to keep in my memory banks. Thanks.
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Song Huang
1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

TimU wrote: Mon Jan 30, 2023 4:12 am
Jubilados wrote: Mon Jan 30, 2023 3:31 am There are supposed to be grommets in those holes, and they are still available for cheap.
The grommets are a harder plastic, and in addition to stopping the rattling they also “tighten up” the feel of the interior door handles and the door lock knobs. Takes all the play out of the system.
But the silicone hose will also do ok too.
Part Number 52208238999 if anyone is looking for it.
It's used on a bunch of different parts.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxr ... series=E24
Thank you for the details for the grommets. I figured that there would be some specific part for this. But sometimes when you already have the door cards off and you just want to get the job done!, you have to get creative. I can't wait days for the grommets too arrive, and I didn't want to put it back together with all the rattling. I had lot of silicon tubing from my model airplane days and it worked really well. I think I'll order grommets anyway and then one day when I go back into the door (you know it'll happen), I can put in the proper part.

Heck, I already discovered that my interior door lever on my passenger side is being held on by one screw, The original plastic mount for the other screw had broken and wasn't doing anything. Luckily these are pretty inexpensive and they have been ordered.
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Song Huang
1984 633CSi
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

Jubilados wrote: Mon Jan 30, 2023 3:31 am There are supposed to be grommets in those holes, and they are still available for cheap.
The grommets are a harder plastic, and in addition to stopping the rattling they also “tighten up” the feel of the interior door handles and the door lock knobs. Takes all the play out of the system.
But the silicone hose will also do ok too.
It looks like Pelican parts has those grommets for $2.50 each. That was the cheapest I could find! It's funny how Real OEM list them as $0.40. I couldn't believe what shops are asking for those grommets! I saw them for up to $9.50 each! Someone on eBay was selling a used yellowed one for $7.50. Crazy.

Anyhow, thanks for chiming in.

I leave you with a gratuitous picture of my car's hood. I waxed it yesterday and wouldn't you know, it sprinkled rain last night. At least I got to come out to my car and see this. There's something satisfying in seeing all those little balls of water.
Wax causing water beads.
Wax causing water beads.
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Song Huang
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by GRNSHRK »

LOL, it is redneck engineering. The alternative is to take out the shock and use a spring compressor, right? Using my "creative" method, I can do each side in about 15 minutes. If I did it the "right" way, it'd be hours!
I think I've heard or see that you can get threaded spring compressors in there in situ, but I have never tried it :-k

Song, at least you didn't try this method [-X

I've tried some crazy things, but never anything like this :shock:

Nice to see that light rain beaded up on your freshly waxed 6er, and nice to see a little more rain in general \:D/
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

hornhospital wrote: Sat Jan 28, 2023 4:59 am Wow! Has it really been 8 years? Your thread is truly a story of patience and persistence, probably the best thread on BigCoupe.com, I'm sure many would agree. Congrats, and I hope you have many more years of joy and adventures with your E24.

I wonder what happened to the E9 that was in the same barn where you found the E24?
Crazy Huh? Thanks for the kind words about my thread.
I bought this car as a commuter not too long after I took on a new job way back in 2015. My daughter needed a car and I accidentally found the e24 while searching for her car! In fact my BigCoupe join date of Aug 2015 was only a few days after I got the car. Before that I had been lurking to learn more about the e24.

I often wonder about that E9 in the same garage where I found my e24. The guy I bought the e24 from moved to Nevada, but I can still get in touch with him via social media. The E9 was part of a disputed estate settlement with his aunts. I remember after 2 years they were still fighting about the estate and the E9 was collateral damage. I lost touch after that. Maybe I'll reach out again.
Last edited by songzunhuang on Sat Feb 04, 2023 5:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Song Huang
1984 633CSi
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Gotta stop the door rattle!

Post by songzunhuang »

Well, the silicon tubing made things noticeably better, but I still hear something going on. Looking at my old door bump stops, I think they may be compressed and shrunk, allowing the metal to metal sounds. I hopped on Pelican Part and found a decent deal on the following.
Door rattling bits?
Door rattling bits?
Door BIts.png (157.92 KiB) Viewed 2893 times
I'll install the bump stops and grommets this weekend and see how it goes.

I also ordered a new passenger side interior door handle by TRQ for $20 from 1A Auto. It arrived today and the quality looks to be quite good. I'll replace all this stuff and then we'll see how things go during next week's commute.
TRQ looks pretty good.
TRQ looks pretty good.
Interiior handle.png (1.03 MiB) Viewed 2893 times
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Song Huang
1984 633CSi
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Door Handle, Bump Stops and Alternate use for Grommet

Post by songzunhuang »

As planned a few parts arrived as scheduled and I installed them all while dodging the on-again and off-again rain.
First order of business was replacing my broken interior door handle on the passenger side. No surprises here. The tab was broken and the remains of the original grommet was in pretty bad shape. I transferred the metal clips over to the new unit and installed it without any drama.
TRQ from 1A Auto door handle worked just fine.
TRQ from 1A Auto door handle worked just fine.
Interior Door.png (802.93 KiB) Viewed 2819 times
Next I turned my attention to the bump stops. They were pretty easy to remove with a 4mm allen wrench. I noticed that the triangular shaped rubber pieces have a small steel plate on both sides. My driver side bump stop was missing the plate. I am hoping that this may have something to do with the rattling sound when I go over bumpy roads. In any case, my stops needed replacing.
Odd bump stops were at end of life.
Odd bump stops were at end of life.
Bump Stops.png (1.3 MiB) Viewed 2819 times
While doing all this work, I noticed that my passenger door trim strip wasn't fastened well. Taking a closer look, I could see that the trim was loose on one side and it was because the bolt to fasten the trim was spinning around inside so the nut couldn't get threaded all the way on. Hmm, what to do? Well, I purchased 4 lock rod grommets and noticed that one would fit snugly in the hole in the door for the trim screw. So I repurposed one of my grommets.
Secured trim and removed slop.
Secured trim and removed slop.
Grommet Altternate.png (1.05 MiB) Viewed 2819 times
It actually worked really well and I think that maybe the trim piece was part of the rattling noise I had been hearing. Once again, I am glad I didn't have to finish with loose ends. Also, I didn't install the other lock grommets that I purchased. The silicon tubing was doing a great job so I just left the tubing in place.

Finally, while installing everything and cleaning along the way, I noticed this circular sticker above the door strike with what appears to be a code? The numbers "1" and "3" are punched out on mine. Does anyone know how to decode these?
What is this code for? There must be a meaning.
What is this code for? There must be a meaning.
Door Jab Code.png (1.36 MiB) Viewed 2819 times
So that was it for today. I'll have 3 days of commuting next week and I'll see if I have finally been able to get rid of the rattling on the passenger side.
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1984 633CSi
Last 7 of VIN: 6997383
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by rhanley 635csi89 »

Hi Song, it's my understanding the round decal was used as a record of BMW recalls. I haven't found any info on the recalls represented by the punched out numbers. My 11/89 build 635CsiA has the number 4 punched. Hopefully some one can fill in the blanks. Roger
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Brake Lines and Bleed, Tire Rotation

Post by songzunhuang »

Today I decided to change all of my rubber brake lines. I purchased a complete kit manufactured by Corteco which also included fluid for about $73 from FCP Euro. This seems like a great deal! (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-co ... 9025516kt1). I also needed to rotate my tires and needed some more jack stands to get all 4 wheels off of the ground. I wanted to rotate the tires in an X-pattern, meaning the front left goes to the rear right, etc. The rears have a camber that makes the inside tread wear faster.

I headed to the Home Depot and got pair of Husky brand jack stands to add to my trusty Allied jack stands. The Husky stands were $39 and I didn't even know Home Depot carried auto supplies. I had an old gift card that still had some bucks on it, so these were free to me!

The first order of business was to get all my tires off and the car on jack stands. That was pretty simple.
The shark is beached for a bit.
The shark is beached for a bit.
On Jack Stands.png (1.37 MiB) Viewed 2620 times
I started on the passenger rears as you are supposed to bleed the brakes furthest from your master cylinder and then move to the closer ones. Each rear brake had 2 lines to replace. This wasn't a difficult job using a few open end wrenches.
Before and after replacement lines.
Before and after replacement lines.
Old Lines vs New.png (971.02 KiB) Viewed 2620 times
Of course after each line replacement, I had to bleed the brakes. Although you can technically do this yourself, I found it was easier with a helper. I asked my daughter to help out. I drilled a hole in a jar and used a bit of clear hose attached to the bleeder screw. We would do the following:

1. Top off the master brake reservoir.
2. Slowly depress the brake pedal as I opened the bleeder screw 1/4 turn.
3. When the pedal reached bottom, I would tighten the bleeder screw. Then repeat step 2 again.
4. Once there were no more bubbles and the new fluid was flowing out the hose, I'd tighten the bleeder screw for good.

Here's the driver front. You can see the new line installed and I am just about to start the bleeding process.
Here's the setup for the front brake bleeding.
Here's the setup for the front brake bleeding.
Front Brake Bleed.png (1.36 MiB) Viewed 2620 times
I repeated the above for all of the brakes. Here's a picture of all the old lines. I bet these were the original! They were not in terrible shape considering the years they have been on the car, but they definitely could use a refresh.
Longer lines with rubber grommets are the fronts.
Longer lines with rubber grommets are the fronts.
Old Brake Lines.png (1.3 MiB) Viewed 2620 times
After I got the tires back on, careful to torque to 75 ft/lbs, I topped of the brake fluid reservoir, did a slight tweak on my tie rods (car was pulling slightly right), and went for a drive. The brakes were definitely less spongy with the braking action happening a bit quicker and with a more solid feel. It felt good to refresh the brakes lines and brake fluid. This was the first brake fluid service in my 8 years of ownership. It was time.

After all this, I had to wash the driveway of the drips of fluid and dirt. I was cleaning the various components of my wheel wells while I was doing all this and there was a bit of a mess on the concrete. I quick scrub with Purple Power and a rinse of the hose and I was done for the day.
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Song Huang
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by hornhospital »

Nice work, Song! =D>

Did you bleed the clutch, too? :-"
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by songzunhuang »

hornhospital wrote: Mon Feb 20, 2023 6:25 pm Nice work, Song! =D>

Did you bleed the clutch, too? :-"
Haha, if I only had a clutch to even worry about. I keep waffling about the cost and benefit of a manual swap. I use this car for commuting and stop and go traffic is best handled with an auto. I have a manual car with a 6 speed (S2000) and the feel of that shifter and clutch is probably better than anything I'll ever get from the e24. Maybe if the ZF ever gives out I'll have to really make a decision.

For now, I am pondering the interior rear deck. It's super faded and the fuzzy carpet is not very fuzzy anymore. Does anyone know of a thread on this forum about the removal and refinishing off the interior rear deck? Also details like where to get the material to recover, etc.?
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by GRNSHRK »

Song, funny, "if I only had a clutch to worry about" \:D/

What you need is in the attached photo, a pressure bleeder =D>

This has got plenty of use, and not just on the green shark :-"

Regarding the rear parcel shelf, I think it's up to you to refinish it yourself [-(

Here's a linky to what I did, and I'm sure your next question is where did I get the material :-?

https://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=32559

IIDC, your interior is black, so it shouldn't be "too" hard to find vinyl to match, which is what I used [-o<

The material came from the place I got my seats from, Aardvark Engineering, or something like, that, I need to look up their website :roll:

I actually have to go back and reglue some of this work, as the spray stuff really doesn't work as well as Weldwood contact cement :-k

Lemme know if I can toss out a few more useless tips #-o
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by potshot »

I bought something similar when I had to bleed one of my e30s after a clutch slave replacement. Total game changer if you're working solo.
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by GRNSHRK »

Yep, works like a charm \:D/

I will admit, however, that the last time I used it I had a bitch of a time getting air out of the clutch hydraulics after replacing the brake MC and had to reverse bleed, which did work :-"

And I will also add that I didn't follow the instructions which tell you to fill the reservoir with brake fluid, rather just used it to pressurize the system and refill the reservoir atop the MC as required :wink:
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Comical Restoration Attempt - Stickers

Post by songzunhuang »

So in pictures that people post, I keep seeing these nice orange stickers on the circular cap to the AT fluid reservoir that powers the brake bomb. I've never had those and decided to do something about it. I saw someone overseas selling some re-production stickers and I immediately ordered them from the seller in Poland. It was $26 dollars for the sticker with shipping! :shock:

When they arrived, I proceeded to wet sand the area that the stickers would be applied to assure the best adhesion.
Wet sanding for a smooth surface.
Wet sanding for a smooth surface.
Sticker prep.png (1.29 MiB) Viewed 2513 times
I then carefully installed the three stickers and then admired my handi-work. That's when I noticed it.
Sticker installed.
Sticker installed.
Sticker on cap.png (944.98 KiB) Viewed 2513 times
They used the wrong word in the English instructions. It says "...oil level does not group any further."
It should say "...oil level does not go up any further."

LOL! =D>
I guess this gives my car unique character. The lesson is, check what's on the sticker before you order them!
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by hornhospital »

If you hadn't told us, I doubt if anyone would notice! Now ALL of us will examine your stickers! :D
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by kronus »

I got some stickers custom made by Pukar and had the same thing. We went back and forth on spelling and phrasing a bunch. The end result was perfect, though!
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Re: 1984 633CSi Rises again!

Post by RossDinan6 »

GRNSHRK wrote: Tue Feb 21, 2023 2:01 am Song, funny, "if I only had a clutch to worry about" \:D/

What you need is in the attached photo, a pressure bleeder =D>

This has got plenty of use, and not just on the green shark :-"
My cheap ass built my own pressure bleeder years ago. A garden sprayer, pressure gauge, a bit of hose and a cheap replacement reservoir cap from the local auto parts. I have no idea what that Schwabben unit cost, but I had maybe $15 or 20 in mine. Mine has disappeared though. I think it was a causality of Hurricane Ian.
Ross
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